Quick Trans Question's
 

I have a friend that has a 2000 EX Cab Ram 1500 4X4 with a HD tow package.

I'm looking for parts for him:

Trany cooler: This one looks fine for 4500 lbs dry weight 5th wheel?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HD...UP&prefilter=1

Now I beleive he has a 46RE trans and what looked like 392's on the tag. Would this be correct?

Transgo Shift Kit for the 46RE?

SK®
TFOD-Diesel
HD & Perf
Truck

Truck: Diesel & Gas

88-03 RH & RE42-47

High Tech all models

Except 03-up 48RE

Firmer Lockup-Reduces:

duty use. Reduces no shift complaint.

Trans Go is a good shift kit but the instructions are a bit hard to follow.

IMO the bigger the cooler the better. Here's one that should do it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNHGCK

That, or one with it's own cooling fan attached.

^ Been a long time sense we chatted Matt. ^

The one I posted was rated at only 2,500 lbs.........LOL........I'll see if I can find one thats rated for the weight. I do agree with bigger is better... It isn't however on my truck so he doesn't want the "tim the tool man" OVERSIZER I would get.


My friend is having it installed so he doesn't care about instructions. Besides, Transgo is #1....IMHO


Now do you know if the trans is in fact a 46RE?

Here are 2 trans coolers maybe he choose from at least for the price?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4969/
or
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HDA-516/

Top one looks better to me.

He definitely has a 46RE Trans if it's still the stock unit in a 2000 Ram 1500. There was no other option that year, unless it's a manual.

I'd also suggest he has the check valve removed from the return line from the radiator, and that when the cooler gets plumbed in, it goes in POST radiator. The fluid flow should be trans>radiator heat exchanger>new oil cooler>back to trans. Just be sure wherever he mounts it gets plenty of air flow. I've seen guys mount them in front of the A/C condenser with good success, and the hood still closes.

Also if somebody's doing the valve body work for him, tell them to get a manual valve that will let the torque converter "charge up" with fluid in park. Sonnax makes such a valve, not sure if the transgo included valve does, so check the literature and ask if need be.

and no HHO generators, LOL!:icon_teeth:

Thanks for the help! I told him already how to install the cooler.

Why remove the check valve for return??? Because there is one for the torque convertor anti drain back already and failure history of return line check valves or what?

Also the convertor won't charge but the pump is engaged at start up???????




I knew you couldn't let this thread go without a post with HHO......LOL

The check valve is about a 20psi restriction in the system. It's also a place where clutch debris tends to build up and cause a failure by sticking the check valve in a closed position, no flow, overheat, boom, (or clunk).

The pump is on in park, but the factory manual valve does not route fluid to the converter in park. The Sonnax manual valve, (and I think the transgo, but I can't swear, I tend to remember the instructions wanting you to grind a bevel in an edge of the factory valve) is redesigned to allow flow to the converter in park.

If you remove the check valve and don't swap in one of those valves, then there is the potential for the the converter to drain back into the pan and not be full when you shift gears at first take off in the morning. The truck would feel like someone had disconnected the trans until the converter fills up and then it would engage and move as the converter can finally transfer power from the engine to the wheels.

I have heard one or two guys complain of torque converter drain back when removing the check valve, but those guys both had let the truck sit for over a week. I've never experienced it in my truck, but regardless, letting it idle (in neutral without the valve or park with) for like 10 seconds is more than enough time to refill the converter.


Sonnax actually makes a kit called the "sure cure" kit that's supposed to fix almost all of the weak points in the 46RE for about a hundred bucks. There's a DIY install of it and deleting the trans check valve in the DIY section here and here. There's also a 46re rebuild guide here.

There is 2 check valves. One coming out (hot line) and one going in (cold line). How is removing only one of them supposed to help? The main one for the anti-drain back to the torque converter is the hot line. Also this would be the first valve that the clutch fluid would come to and not the return. I see the validity of the pull but have always steered away because there is one in each line at the crimp from rubber to metal line.

Our lines are different than the pic you showed. Theres one in each line!

I only had the one. If you've got 2, perhaps you should pull them both.

Removal of both? Thinkin you lost a few cylinders?


I think a good manual old trans temp sensor would take care of the entire situation.