In-Expensive Lift
#11
10-17-2009, 11:31 PM
Captain
#12
10-18-2009, 02:43 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lee County, North Carolina
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i just put that leveling kit on mine. if you do that and either get add a leafs or bigger blocks then it would be a cheaper way to lift. i'm probably going to go a couple inches higher in the rear on mine and do the same thing you're wanting to do. i didn't so much want to level my truck as lift it.
where?
Be careful, I bought the cheap lift blocks from AZ, they were cast aluminum and lasted about 6 months and one day I floored it to pull into traffic and shattered both of them, spum my rear axel 45 degrees and snapped my rear U-joint. luckily I was not moving very fast or it could have killed me. There was not much holding the axel to my truck. I ended up pulling the DS and limpimg home in 4hi. The good ones are not much more. go to Fat Bobs Garage. com, that is where I got my 2" level kit and 1" rear blockes and Ubolts. Trust me on this one, cheap is NOT better when it come to suspension. That is a DAMN fine Dodge Big Red!!!!!
i had to take my track bar, stabilizer links and passenger tie rod end off and drop the axle all the way down on the two floor jacks i was using and still had to compress the springs to get them under my 2.5" spacers.
Last edited by Sheriff420; 10-18-2009 at 02:46 AM.
#14
10-18-2009, 06:57 AM
Grand Champion
If you have an oreily's around you, they consider a spring compressor to be a specialty tool, and they will loan it out to ya fairly cheap. <$20.00
#15
10-18-2009, 07:08 AM
#16
10-18-2009, 07:09 AM
Grand Champion
#17
10-18-2009, 07:33 AM
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we just got an oreilleys in my town and i hadn't heard of them until i saw it on here.
the spring compressor was 48.99 there and the locks on it don't fit over my coils so it was a little dangerous.
i might have stiff springs because i had to drop the axle down quite a bit to get them back in there and there are a few people that didn't have to do that. to get the axle to drop down far enough you have to take the end of the track bar off that is under the passenger coil.
to get my track bar to line back up to get the bolt through it i had to use a come along hooked under the passenger coil and on the frames cross member because the truck shifted toward the drivers side about an inch when i put the weight back on the springs.
the spring compressor was 48.99 there and the locks on it don't fit over my coils so it was a little dangerous.
i might have stiff springs because i had to drop the axle down quite a bit to get them back in there and there are a few people that didn't have to do that. to get the axle to drop down far enough you have to take the end of the track bar off that is under the passenger coil.
to get my track bar to line back up to get the bolt through it i had to use a come along hooked under the passenger coil and on the frames cross member because the truck shifted toward the drivers side about an inch when i put the weight back on the springs.
#18
10-18-2009, 12:33 PM
i didnt use one for my 2.5" i just cocked the axle to get the side i wanted in, and i didnt have to undo my track bar either.
when i put my passanger side spacer in, i jacked the drivers side of the axle up, and made for the clearance to get what i needed. though i still had to compress the spring, but it wasntenough to have to use a spring compressor, i was able to compress it enough by hand to give clearance that i needed.
when i put my passanger side spacer in, i jacked the drivers side of the axle up, and made for the clearance to get what i needed. though i still had to compress the spring, but it wasntenough to have to use a spring compressor, i was able to compress it enough by hand to give clearance that i needed.
#19
10-18-2009, 02:54 PM
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#20
10-18-2009, 02:56 PM