Front end hub won't come off "01" 2500
 

While attempting to replace the ball joints I'm stuck here.
The hub won't come off the steering knuckle.
Things removed so far
Calipers
Rotor
Hub lock nut and cotterpin
the 4 bolts that hold the hub and bearing flange to the knuckle.
It's been soaking in PB for the last hour and a deadblow won't budge it.

Axle shaft and spline move back and forth in the hub so it's not bound there.

So 2 questions:
First how do I remove the ABS speed sensor I pulled the bolt and the plug won't come out(if it is a plug I don't know if it's the whole thing) But I don't wan't to force it.

Second does anyone have any tips for pulling the hub off?

It's a 2001 ram 2500 8.0 liter 4X4 QC
plow package
heavy duty suspension
stock lift
Dana 60

Any help is appreciated...
Hub wouldn't come up in a search as it was too small a word?

Thanks Jeff

PB blaster sucks! get some Cyclo or another brand penetrating oil. Put the 4 bolts back in and leave them loose like a 1/2 inch. Wedge a short piece of steel between one of them and the axle housing and use the steering to push on the head of the bolts, do a very little bit to each one at a time and it will eventually come out.

Don't you or anyone else stand near the truck while you do this, in case the steel goes flying!

Still not budging.
I don't know how much I want to stress my steering trying this.
Any other Ideas?
I have found out that my universal is binding when it's not running straight so I gotta get this thing apart...

That is the best way, aside from getting some new bolts with the same threads and beating on them from the back so you don't ruin the originals. And of course heat from a torch will help.

Thanks, I'll try the heat when the penetrant is mostly gone.
I don't want it to flare up and melt the ABS speed sensor

The sensor is part of the hub, they are expensive, but, you should replace them anyway since you are going through the trouble of getting them off. Either way, use anti seize compound when you put it back together(after removing the rust) so they will come off easier next time.

Zman quick question are the hubs pinned at all or can I try whacking the hub to get it to spin just enough to crack em free?

I was gone all day and nothing is open round here except lowes which doesn't stock anything over 12mm (I was looking for the sacrifical bolts to hit).
I'll just get them at work tommorrow, maybe i'll bring the air hammer home too (to hit the bolts with).
Thing that really annoys me is 2 years ago my wife brought it to sears and had the ball joints, hub and universal on this side done..... and all are bad....
I would like to salvage the hub if possible due to economic constraints....

Well I finally got the hub off The sacrifical bolts have been..........trashed. If anyone was wondering they're 14mm x1.5 pitch
Hub threads still good,
bearing is remarkably like new as is the spline.
So all seems well on that front....
Next..
Universal will go with me to work tommorrow to be pressed apart and replaced.
Any one have a preference to the types out there?

Ball joints will wait till I can get the drag link off and then pull the knuckle off....

Should I use a special puller for this or just a small 2 jaw puller? I assume its pressed in since it's not coming out very easily..

All my tools are at work so I am not prepared for any unexpected hurdles......

Is there anything that I should expect to screw up tommorrow?

Thanks again in advance...
Jeff

Get Dana/Spicer joints if you can, if not Precision greasable's are ok.

You should be able to undo the BJ nuts and drop and swing the knuckle out of the way to do the BJ's. If you have to disconnect tie rods, there is a small tie rod puller made so the boots don't get damaged as apposed to using a fork.