That is exactly what I had. No one sells that so I used rubber fuel hose. I added the clamps, but not sure I needed them because once I pushed the hose on to those barbs, it wouldn't come off. I have never seen anything like it. It grabs like a compression fitting. I put hose clamps on just to be safe, but who knows, maybe that is where it is leaking from.

 

The line in the rear is called a crossover line. Inside / Under the rubber EFI rated material, it's a black, hard type of material (usually PTFE and, to install or remove it (if it's OEM) is a pain to deal with as it requires quite a bit of heat before it will slip over the tangs.

There's no barbs but rather, rounded off bumps. The hose fits so tightly due to the I.D specs and, it's not thin walled but, rather thick and stiff. IT's not compliant at all. Even when using an assembly lube, that hose is almost impossible to install by hand. Boiling it in hot water yielded no positive results. Baking it was a better alternative. A torch is too hot and causes the hose to distort. The rubber hose slides off of the black material thus allowing one end to be fit first. Then slide the rubber end over the black hose using silicone. Then, the last end is a real SOB to install as it will have the rubber over it thus making it extremely difficult to slip on over the fitting.

I have found that there's another material that's rated for EFI and, it slips on without half the hassle. However, hose clamps (EFI-rated hose clamps) should be used.

If your smelling gas, it may be the canister under your door. If you had a leaky injector o-ring, the truck engine would stumble and not run good at all. It would also **** gas all over the manifold. You would clearly be able to see that.

Check the canister under your truck. It may be cracked or, the rubber end may have rotted thus allowing the gas to escape.

Is it raw gas or gas fumes? You may have a manifold leak or a exhaust leak if it's gas fumes / vapors. If it smells like raw gas- that's not good. Check the quick connect under your door as well. It's located on the inside of the frame rail just below the firewall area.

That's one place where over time, those fittings sometimes rust out thus causing leaks.

If it's not leaking there, it's going to be at the flex-line. But, you stated a new one was put on and it's fine. No leaks there. So, that only leaves us with one quick connection to check.

The hard line that goes from the tank to that quick connect is mostly covered by the tank but, it is exposed on the side of the frame rail. Get on a creeper and scope that out and follow it up into the flex line while feeling for wetness.

You may also have a bad weld on one or more of your rails. They do rust after a while and, if they were removed or beat on during working on the truck, one of the x-over fittings may have a small leak at the weld junction or at the inlet.

I replaced that system on mine. It was in really bad shape. I rid of those OEM fuel rails as well as the OEM flex line and went with all new SS braided PTFE lines throughout and new Al billet fuel rails. I hate fuel leaks and that system that they use- period. After a while, they (those OEM rails) rust out and then contaminate the injectors thus clogging and restricting fuel flow.

 

to go with what cmckenna said, that canister under the door has lines coming off of it that go to the evap purge solenoid in the engine, check the lines for cracks or breaks and check the evap purge solenoid itself for cracks or a break.

 

Looks like I have found the source. Thanks cmckenna for the tip. When I replaced the rubber/plastic hose I used the fuel injected rated rubber hose, but I used regular hose clamps. I removed them (along with hose) and replaced them with fuel injected rated hose clamps that are the band type clamps that fit the hose perfectly. The other ones even though adjustable obviously don't tighten all the way around the hose so that seems to have caused the leak.

 

As you found out, the only ones that work are the smooth-walled, EFI rated, band clamps for fuel injected applications. The problems with using regular hose clamps is they also cut lines when tightened up due to sharp edges. This is the main reason for not using those.

Glad you found the source before catastrophe struck.