I am back! Still have not gotten my truck to run worth a damn. It runs but won't idle. It surges and will die when you put it into gear. Everything has been rebuilt from the ground up. It has a 210x cam, bored .30 over. I got the tune from KRC and programmer didn't do anything. I have ported and cleaned all the injectors. I have spark on all wires. I have replaced the IAC(could be a bad one from the fac?) I have had it fuel synced. I can't figure it out and it has been a year since I began the project. I have a good motor waiting to be unleashed and new tranny to compliment but I can't get the motor to run worth a damn. It has little power and when you try to get on it it seems to have a lot of spark rattle. I pulled a plug today and it is heavily sooted. I have sprayed it down with carb cleaner looking for vacuum leaks. I have replaced the whole exhaust system to see if maybe it was an 02 error, the gas is new and the correct octane with booster in it. I can't even get the urge to open the damn hood anymore I am so tired of it. Anyway heh (complaining) If you all have any suggestions( I have tried most) I would love to hear them and if you know of a shop where someone can work magic on dodge rams (1996 318 4x4) I could use their number. Jacksons automotive held it for 2months and didn't do crap to it other then claim they replaced my rear seal that they botched the 1st time ( and is still leaking) Also does it really need to be driven 50miles for it to learn? I think it is maybe at 23miles since the finished rebuild.

 

no it dont gotta go no damn 50 miles, like 15-20 min of drivin should get the job done. and i dunno what ur problem could be man. what all have u done sensor wise besides the IAC? sounds like its a sensor somewhere but not sure which one. no codes pop?

 

Go to Archey's Tune-Up Center, 304 E I240 Service Rd just east of Shields Blvd between the Maaco and Enterprise Car Rental. The number is 631-2646 and he will schedule Saturday morning appointments. He was able to get my A/C running and topped off for under $40. Very nice guy (Gene Archey).

 

i doubt that its a simple problem. he's probably got a tuning problem related to the larger cam, the larger bore, the custom pcm, along with the injectors, fuel sync, etc. with older, non-computerized engines, you could simply guess at timing settings and fuel jets and get an instant answer and anybody could do it. now it requires a high-tech scanner to monitor all the sensor readings and computer responses, and an even higher-tech tuning device to change those settings. it can be an unsolvable nightmare for someone with normal tools.

a lot of shops won't even touch something like this. they can make good money fixing air conditioning and brakes and such, and a project like this can become a time pit that interferes with making money. sorry - but that's the bottom line. wicked may have to go to a 'performance shop' like the car shows you see on saturday morning tv. where they say - hey joe, lets dial in a little less fuel at idle and little more at 80,000 rpm and rerun the dyno. and 10 seconds later it show them doing that and they wrap up the show with yep, that fixed it, and we've only got $200 in this motor (and a $250,000 dyno).

 

Yeah I figured it would have to be a shop, does anyone know of a good one around oklahoma okc that does that kind of thing, I haven't had much luck finding anything like that.

 

VW has got yer back.

 

2 things I can suggest may be long shots, but they are relatively cheap, both made the engine run like crap, and didn't even throw a code.

Have you replaced the coolant temp sensor? Its a cheap $20 try.

Are you absolutely certain the distributor is on the correct tooth? You can set fuel sync wrong.

One other, crank sensors get damaged easily on tranny swaps, and there's not a good way to test for a faulty one that I know of. Perhaps swap it out and return the part if it doesn't fix the problem.

 

If you replace the crank or cam sensor use OEM only!!!
I replaced mine wiith a Napa crank sensor and what a joke that was.
Six monthes later replaced it with OEM, problems gone.

Dave

 

How can you tell if it is the right tooth? That is what I am leaning towards most. I really lean more towards that dist gear being a tooth or so too advanced. As I get spark rattle and the power just is not there.

 

Pics:

This pic is correct. Ignore the black sharpie mark, that was for the disty housing in relationship to the end of the disty hold down clamp.


The disty gear needs to be almost perfectly 6/12 o'clock when at #1 TDC. It will be very slightly skewed toward the A/C unit. If you're standing or looking just a bit off center, it might very well look straight up and down. I'd say it's probably 11:30/5:30

This link should help a lot: http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...uel%20Sync.pdf

The good thing is, you don't have to pull anything other than the disty to fix it, but it's a pain in the *** to do as there is not much room to work.

Harbor Freight makes a 15lbs magnetic pick up tool that will pull the oil pump drive shaft right out. You can then spin it just a bit and reset it.

I will say this too, I had a hard time getting the disty into the correct slot. It would go easily into the wrong slot just in front or behind the correct, but I had to work it just right to get it to fall in correctly. The curved teeth make it difficult to judge how to get it in there right. If you get it close, use a mechanic's mirror to SLOWLY move it over the one extra tooth you need.