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Drake's rebuild thread
4 Attachment(s)
Can't sleep tonight due to motor mod giddyness so here's the writeup for my rebuild. After 250k hard miles on my '99 ram and a few months of it running poorly and smoking I decided it was time to pull the heads. I thought they just needed to be rebuilt but the machine shop showed me that both heads were cracked in 6 places between the valves. Not wanting to put brand new heads on a very worn motor I began pulling the motor, several hours and beers later we had the transmission and block sitting in my garage. Now that I have the motor on the stand and torn down I'm glad its getting a full rebuild, the pistons and rings were worn, main and rod bearings are worn, and one of my cam bearings is torn up pretty bad. On the bright side the crankshaft looks fine, the wear pattern on all the bearings looks normal with the exception of the cam bearing, and my cylinder walls amazingly look perfect. I have all my parts ready to be ordered with just a few clicks so now all I need to do is take the block to the machine shop and have it checked before I buy parts for a busted block.
TL/DR version: motor smoked, heads cracked, getting rebuilt, HERE'S PICS! Attachment 78954 Attachment 78955 Attachment 78956 Attachment 78957 |
Current plans for the build are as follows:
bore .030 over new KB pistons new scat rods (can't decide on H or I beams) comp cams 264HR-12 comp double roller timing set comp magnum rockers and pushrods clevite bearings all around melling high flow oil pump Hughes iron ram heads 2.02 intake 1.62 exhaust Mopar lifters m1 intake Fastman tb headers (long tube or shorties I need to see how they sound first) sct Mopar valve covers and air hat for dressup and a new damn dash! |
i might would get the airgap over the m1
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they have almost identical gains, the m1 being a single plane and the air gap is a dual plane iirc. The idea was just to upgrade without getting too crazy high of a cost and I found the M1 a bit cheaper, that and I've read here that the fuel rails fit better on the M1.
but I'm open to any and all suggestions df has never lead me astray. if you can get me a really good reason why its better (or if you can find one cheaper) I'll go with that one. |
looks like fun and sounds like it would be a blast i would love to do my own rebuild. I just havent had that my exp. doing that kinda mech. work lol
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oh yeah! if anyone has yet to change their timing chain GO DO IT NOW! literally if it had another 1/4 inch of play in it I could have pulled the chain off without removing the sprocket.
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well this is my first Truck motor rebuild I used to help my grandfather rebuild lawnmowers and tractors when he was still alive. same basic idea just a bit more involved. start slow and read as much as you can about it. it also helps to have friends that know motors and work for beer. I'll try and make this as detailed as possible just to help out anyone that is wanting to do their engine too.
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Thats great i also dont have the tools i need to do all the work.
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This is an old school Tag :)
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Originally Posted by TheGreatDrake
(Post 2227168)
they have almost identical gains, the m1 being a single plane and the air gap is a dual plane iirc. The idea was just to upgrade without getting too crazy high of a cost and I found the M1 a bit cheaper, that and I've read here that the fuel rails fit better on the M1.
but I'm open to any and all suggestions df has never lead me astray. if you can get me a really good reason why its better (or if you can find one cheaper) I'll go with that one. GEt Rhoades Lifters and 1.6 roller rockers: Rhoades Lifters: http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=23632 ROller Rockers: http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...=&partid=25405 Also, you will need to buy different pushrods with that cam and the 1.6 roller rockers. Call hughes. THey are 98 dollars. So, you have about 800 dollars in my post...are you sure you want to do all that? WHy not just get a rear mount turbo on a stock setup running 6PSI? |
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