Do our trucks have a coolant bleeder valve in one of the lines or on the radiator to help bleed the air out? I know many vehicles have them but I wasn't sure if we do.

 

No........... the easiest way is to just raise the passenger side of the truck as far as possible before refilling.

 

If you can find a very steep hill to park on, drive there with the radiator cap off and burp it there. Once the coolant level no longer falls in five minutes, top up right to the brim and put the cap back on before getting off of the hill. I've been doing it this way since I lost my frame jack, and it's worked on every vehicle I've tried it on in just one go.

 

+1 to the above. The darn heater core and water jacket by the heads and intake are just about as high as the radiator cap. You gotta get that passenger side up there to burp it properly. curbing the passenger side front or driving up a ramp on only the passenger side front wheel works for me.

 

Ill add that a leak in the system will push coolant out when hot, but suck air in as it cools without emptying the overflow tank. Tstat housing, WP,the split in the heater line on the passenger side valve cover, and the heater return tube all seem to leak frequently. That metal tube should have a rubber o ring on it that frequently get mashed and leaks.

I usually put a thin smear of that grey coolant system RTV on the WP gasket, tstat gasket and that metal tube get a thick bead before I reinstall it.

 

Good advice! I'll be doing that when I do the WP again. It's leaking from the back of the pump but on the passenger side so I at least know it's not that metal tube since that's on the driver's side.

 

Any pics or tips for the radiator swap? Mine is getting swapped when I get all the parts to do the hoses tstat and trans check vavle delete all at one time.

 

Welp, got everything apart and it doesn't look like the water pump was leaking. There is no evidence that the gasket has been compromised anywhere. What I DID find, though, is it looks as though the leak is coming from the timing cover gasket by the water jacket entry into the block on the passenger side. It's hard to tell because EVERYTHING is green from all the previous leaks but that is where I remember seeing the moisture before pulling everything apart.

Any tips for replacing that gasket? I should probably check the timing chain while I'm back there huh? I've never taken that cover off so ANY advice would be good (unless it's bad advice ).

EDIT: just read the procedure on removing the vibration dampener in the FSG. Yikes! Looks scary.

 

The radiator swap is really straight forward. You don't even need to remove the clutch fan but would be a good idea to do anyway so you can replace the fan clutch.

Far as hoses, remember to replace your heater bypass hose too. It's a biznitch to get to. You have to remove the fan, AC compressor (just unbolt it and lay it over on the passenger wheel well), alternator, and finally the accessory bracket. Then you can get to that short 6" hose.

While you're in there, might as well do the water pump. Just a few more bolts and it's in your hand.

The lower trans cooler hose requires a special removal tool to get it off. When I installed my aftermarket cooler, I just bypassed the stock one so I left that part of the hose attached to my old radiator. I believe the tool is similar to a fuel filter removal tool (might be the same tool). Can be had at a parts house for cheap.

 

Here's where I'm suspecting the coolant is coming from:


And here's a shot of the mess. Look at all that GREEN!


Also, to add, the WP is about 10,000 miles old and the bypass hose was replaced with the WP as well so it's still new too.