I've been real busy...
 

So I took this thing to a mechanic because I didn't have the time to do any more on it with me working (with a long commute), building a new addition, having a new baby, two other kids and a wife. The shop replaced the crank sensor, battery, wires, plugs, distributor cap and one fuel injector. After spending $800 on this ****, I told him to give me my truck back because he was just throwing parts at it and I could do that without incurring the labor costs.
zman17: I believe I used an NGK O2 sensor. Is there a known issue with certain brands of O2 sensors? I did unscrew the sensor, go for a drive and there was no change.
HeyYou: I haven't checked my fuel pressure yet, but I'm guessing the shop did before they replace the injector. I'll find out today.

I found this .pdf regarding Chrysler Mode 6 data (page 43) http://otctraining.com/documents/GenisysMODE6.pdf

And this .jpg
http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...ode6_pids1.jpg

They match up, can anyone verify if this is correct for a 2nd Gen Ram?

If it is correct, then my mode6 test data (11, 15, 52 & 53 failed) points to:
11: O2 Sensor 1/1 Half-Cycle Counter
15: Catalyst 1/1 Phase Response Counter
52: Purge Monitor & Adaptive Fuel Shift (EVAP)
53: Purge Monitor & RPM Shift (EVAP)

My next thing I'm going to do is check the EVAP system for any leaks from the fuel tank all the way up and check to make sure the Duty Cycle EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid is working properly.

Is there a way to determine if the EVAP Canister is "working"?
Is there a way to check the Duty Cycle EVAP Canister Purge Solenoid? 12V from battery to solenoid?

Might this be the cause of the misfiring? I've seen pages where people say that all this does is vent the gas tank, but I've seen threads also that say that if it wasn't working properly that it could cause a lot of problems.
I can get an Echlin solenoid from NAPA for $40 or a Duralast from Autozone for the same. Which would be "better"?

Why the hell is the EVAP Canister $48 + $10.99 shipping from RockAuto?! Isn't it just a plastic container with charcoal inside?

RECAP:
1.) Engine is misfiring
2.) My CEL is not illuminated (it does work)
3.) The key trick does not give me any codes
4.) My scan tool says there are no pending codes
5.) My scan tool says TID's 11(O2?), 15(Catalyst?), 52(EVAP?) and 53(EVAP?) fail
6.) I want my truck to run well with balls out power
7.) Replaced parts: O2 sensor, crank sensor, battery, wires(2-3 times), plugs(3 times), cap and rotor(2 times), one fuel injector, plenum gasket, pitman arm, brake pads and catalytic converter(1 time, checked another)
8.) The steering sucks, in a bad way
9.) IAC seems to be fine
10.) I need new shocks
11.) Can't find a vacuum leak

You might want to have a compression test done. I am surprised you are not getting any misfire codes.

Did you ever figure it out?

I never did figure out the problem and it's still running like garbage with light throttle and low rpm's. There is no CEL, no codes and it is still misfiring. I've been driving it a lot less lately (once a week) and haven't worked on it in months as I started a new project when I got an old banged up 1986 Yamaha FZ600 for free.

Free? My favorite price. :D

How about a re-cap of what you have done/replaced?

Just something simple that may have been over looked but how do the plugs look? Running too rich or lean or? Have you checked the Temp sensor next to the thermostat housing yet? My truck was doing similar things until the guys here mentioned the temp sensor and ended up mine was actually rotted off at the connection for the wires, ( 2 wire connector ), after replacement all has been well, my truck was running rich, black plugs.

Larry

similar problems
 

I'm not sure if it could be a related problem but I have a 98 dodge 1500 with a 360 that i got with a rod out the motor and i put a 95 360 in it and swapped intake and right exhaust manifold and crank sensor and cam sensor with the original.. I dont know the prior history of the truck but now the truck runs horrible and will feel the shop full of rich gas fumes in minutes and wont hardly idle or rev up.. I have swapped fuel rails and injectors over and changed crank sensor and tried different computers to see if it was bad.. this motor ran perfect before putting it in this truck.. putting it on a code reader it says crank or cam sensor intermittent.. I have done some research and it shows if the distributor has been moved it will mess with fuel timing? I have re found dead center and put plug wires in number one going around with the correct firing order a few different times and have tried turning distributor while it is running for different results and nothing changes. what do you guys think is the problem? any help will be greatly appreciated

Is the engine temp sensor hooked up?

I decided to switch out the plugs the other day while replacing a leaky thermostat gasket and flushing my cooling system. I chose to go with the Autolite 3923's (which are a cooler plug) and this seems to have helped out a lot as I'm no longer getting the misfire that I was feeling before with the NGK's and the Champion RC12YC's under light throttle. It's worth a shot for you guys who are experiencing a similar problem as it's a super easy fix (hopefully). If it was the temp sensor, wouldn't the dash gauge be way off or not work at all?

98 and newer have a single sensor for both the PCM, and the gauge in the dash. 97 and older have a separate sensors for them.