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Rear brake replacement

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  #1  
Old 11-25-2010, 10:44 AM
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Default Rear brake replacement

Doing new shoes & drums on the rear of my 97 CC. Couldn't find the answer in the shop manual or a quick search.

Should I set the adjuster all the way closed to start with, or should I adjust it open some?

Also this is apparently the first time the shoes/drums have been done, so the port on the back for the adjuster is still blocked off. Should I drill/cut this out and put the plug in that came with the spring kit?

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Old 11-25-2010, 10:50 AM
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It sucks when the back plate has no hole, which some Rams don't for whatever stupid reason. My 98 didn't and I also cut it out using a 1/4" right angle die grinder. As far as the adjuster goes, screw it in all the way to assemble every thing, adjust it out as far as it will go ,but, still be able to get the drum on. If you cut the slot(which you should do), you can adjust them properly after the drum is on.

Edit: And btw, if you have not taken it apart yet, only do ONE side at a time. This way if some thing is not right, you can look at the other side for reference.
 

Last edited by zman17; 11-25-2010 at 10:57 AM.
  #3  
Old 11-25-2010, 11:05 AM
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I think the ports are stamped in there... just need to knock the plug out. Screwdriver and hammer works good. Do that when you have the brakes disassembled.

Get a hardware kit as well. Dealing with the rusty crusty parts in there for reassembly is a pain.

Set the adjuster as short as it will go. Once you have everything reassembled, with the drums back on..... adjust them out till the just rub a bit. Then, step on the brake pedal a couple times, and recheck your adjustment. Do that until they are just touching a bit even after pumping the pedal. (once or twice is usually adequate.)

Do one side at a time, so if you get 'lost', you can look at the other side, and see how things go together. (have both sides done, before you adjust 'em up though.)

Check the wheel cylinders while you are in there, and signs of leaking, replace them. Something else to consider... may not be a bad time to do the wheel cylinder upgrade. (installing chevy 1 ton, or, was it 3/4 ton wheel cylinders.....)
 
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:13 AM
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Except for the WC suggestion and the fact that he has the hardware kit, feel free to copy and paste my replies any time you like, LOL
 
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by zman17
Except for the WC suggestion and the fact that he has the hardware kit, feel free to copy and paste my replies any time you like, LOL
Great minds think alike?
 
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Old 11-25-2010, 11:38 AM
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And even some times before the ? is asked
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 10:54 PM
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wheel cylinder upgrade??
 
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:57 PM
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Yeah, GM 3/4 or 1 ton (can't remember which) are direct replacements for the stockers. They have larger diameter bores, so, you get more brake power for the same amount of pedal effort. If you tow/haul, not a bad plan, but, if your truck is empty most of the time, don't do it..... you will easily lock up the rears before the fronts start doing much of anything.
 
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Old 10-27-2011, 10:22 AM
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Thanks HY.
 



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