Brake pads worn into rotor. How to remove?
 

A couple years ago, I thought it would be cool to buy some slotted rotors from JC Whitney. Then, when I tried to do a brake pad replacement about a year after that, nobody would turn the rotors, because they were slotted. At that time, I just put on a new pair of pads, and went with it. This time around, I tried to change the pads, but they have worn a pretty deep groove into the rotor, making it impossible for them to just slide off. I am thinking I will have to drain the brake fluid, to release the tension. Is that about right? I don't see any other way of releasing the tension. I have a C-Clamp, but I usually use that after the fact, to compress it for reinstall.

I am also thinking I should go ahead and order some new, non-slotted rotors, so that I can have them turned in the future. Is JC Whitney a good place to get those?

Thanks!!

You can usually use a thick screwdriver or something solid to wiggle the rotor back and forth opening up the caliper's.

Alright, I'll try that. If the rotor is trash and the pads, then I won't have to worry about damaging it up. I can just get a screwdriver between those two and pry it apart.

I did a price comparison, and the rotors from JC Whitney and O'Reillys are the same, so I guess it doesn't matter.

I would put the screwdriver or whatever you use in the notches or whatever they're called on the rotor rather then itself, see pic below:

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/...lotted_LRG.jpg

I suspect that the caliper pins are corroded and causing it to bind. May need to hit it with chemicals. Then, clean them off and polish with emory cloth. Lube them before reinatallation. If these cannot move freely, it will causde pads to stay engaged on rotor ....... causing excessive wear.....

Yes, that makes more sense. I got eager, and went to O'Reillys and bought a pair of new rotors. I went outside, and did the driver side first, and it was really easy. I then went to do the passenger side, and for some reason, that one was really difficult. It took me about 10-15 minutes just to get it off. That was the side I tried at first, before I posted this thread.

Well I already have everything back on. Do you mean the two bolts that hold the caliper on? I have some "Hi-Temp Disc Brake Wheel Bearing Grease". Would I just apply it directly on the bolt/pin? Everything is back together now, but I suppose I could take it apart again, and apply it. Thanks!

That should work. You can easily pull one bolt at a time and grease and reinstall. That way nothing should move and you don't have to take it all apart. It is important for proper brake operation that the caliper can "float" on these bolts.

Do the calipers slide on the bolts, or, do the bolts just hold the sleeve the calipers slide on in place? You need to lube the parts that move.... or, allow movement. If the bolt just holds the guides in place, lubing the bolt won't help.

I don't remember a sleeve on mine, but I could be mistaken. But you are correct....the part that moves is the part to grease....

I use silicone and I put it on the bolt and the sleeve (NOT THE THREADS) and work them in and out prior to install. Torque them to specs. I do the same for chevys that have the similar design. You will notice how much better your alignment is now that a caliper is not sticking and the grease will not make its way to the rotors to cause squeaking/brake pulsating later on. FWIW...