Finally got my ram 5.9 rebuilt. Took 5 months, but its done. I ended up letting a professional build it. That being said, since i let someone rebuild it, i have no clue what could be the issue. Here's what was done.

Bored .030 over, new heads, new valves, new HC springs. New push rods, new connecting rods, pistons, rings, crank, .480 cam, headers, CAI, 180 stat, hemifever tune. Only thing NOT new on this motor is the block, and the intake mani.

Now, once we got it in, 2nd crank and it started right up. Idled a bit rough, but it was running. Fixed some vacuum links and took it around the block, feels VERY sluggish. I've contacted Sean about the tune, and what could be the issue. I've synced the sensors and adjusted the timing thru the distributor to + 7 degrees using a Scan tool. Took it around the block again, still very sluggish. I talking like 0-30 in 5 seconds sluggish. Now we're lost. Best guess is it's running super rich. Next we're going to run a compression check to see if maybe the valves are messed up. Wideband A/F gauge will go on as well. Any ideas out there!?!?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

Clarify this do you mean fuel sync or timing? Wideband is a must as you know, and so is a tune.

 

How's your cat?

 

Did both according to bionicdodge.com. Supposed to set the sync at 0, and then adjust timing to +6-8 degrees. Startup tune is already in the truck. Waiting on the wideband. I may have to pull it off my jeep just to get the tune dialed in.

 

Funny you say that, i thought the same thing. Had a bad cat 2 years ago and it ran the same way. Unbolted the exhaust and went open headers, (loud as hell btw) but unfortunately it changed nothing.

 

You don't adjust the timing with the distributor.
That just effs with the fuel sync. If you messed with the disty at ALL! you screwed up the fuel sync and will need to reset it.

*EDIT*
Well, the cat is ruled out now.

 

Ok, the way i understood it was to set fuel sync at 0, and then slightly turn the distributor to advance timing. I think i turned it about 1/16th of an inch to get it to +7. Not very much at all. Maybe i misunderstood.

Using a scanner, the idle is brought up to 1000 rpm, to reduce valve train fluctuations and the sync signal is set to zero degrees. Most of
the cams that we run in the shop, we set six to eight degrees positive

 

Yeah, you set the timing using a SCANNER.

Not your hand and ear. There is a HUGE difference.

 

As per the fsm

To verify correct distributor rotational position,
connect the DRB scan tool to the data link connector.
The data link connector is located in the engine compartment.
Gain access to the SET SYNC screen on
the DRB.

WARNING: WHEN PERFORMING THE FOLLOWING
TEST, THE ENGINE WILL BE RUNNING. BE CAREFUL
NOT TO STAND IN LINE WITH THE FAN
BLADES OR FAN BELT. DO NOT WEAR LOOSE
CLOTHING.

Follow the directions on the DRB screen and start
the engine. With the engine running, the words IN
RANGE should appear on the screen along with 0°.
This indicates correct distributor position.

If a plus (+) or a minus (-) is displayed next to the
degree number, and/or the degree displayed is not
zero, loosen but do not remove the distributor holddown
clamp bolt. Rotate the distributor until IN
RANGE appears on the screen. Continue to rotate
the distributor until achieving as close to 0° as possible.
After adjustment, tighten clamp bolt to 22.5
N-m (200 in. lbs.) torque.

The degree scale on the SET SYNC screen of the
DRB is referring to fuel synchronization only. It is
not referring to ignition timing. Because of this,
do not attempt to adjust ignition timing using this
method. Rotating the distributor will have no effect
on ignition timing. All ignition timing values are controlled
by the powertrain control module (PCM).

After testing, install air cleaner assembly.

 

Ok, i will try setting the sync back to zero. The scanner we are using is a snap on SOLUS ultra. We didnt see any way to adjust the timing, but we'll look again.