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need proportioning valve w/ rear disc conversion?

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Old 11-29-2006, 10:03 PM
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Default need proportioning valve w/ rear disc conversion?

Is a new proportioning valve needed for the egr rear disc brake conversion. Its not listed with their kit and doesnt say anything about it but I always thought a new one was needed when switching from drum to disc brakes?
 
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Old 11-30-2006, 12:02 AM
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Default RE: need proportioning valve w/ rear disc conversion?

I have a 95' Ram 2500, 4x4 CTD with the full EGR rear conversion, slotted rotors, etc. The fronts, the pads, flex lines, etc.

Which kit did you get?


You're right about EGR not mentioning anything. As you probably know, drum brakes are low pressure, and disc brakes are high.

Dodge uses a combination metering/proportioning/residual valve. I originally had thought just to install the rear discs and all would be well. Boy was I wrong.LOL. 8-12 lbs of residual pressure in the rear line was enough to keep the pads against the rotors, and eventually warp them.

I ended up gutting the entire factory brake system. The combo valve, the antilock valves, the lines, and even the vacuum booster. I went all out and added a hydroboost. My front brakes are live lined and the same with the rears except the rears have an adjustable proportioning valve.


It's an incredible difference. I can lock up all 4 wheels at will. Here's a few pics of the mc/hydro setup, and my proportioning valve. Being lazy like I am, and not wanting to get in and out to adjust the rears, I installed the prop valve and line lock in the cab...lol. It's a cool setup.

As far as EGRs product, I am impressed with the pads and rotors. I changed my rear rotors once I gutted the system. I had to replace the 2 that had warped due to the residual pressure. The only downside so far is that the carbon/kevlar pads are so hard, they are actually wearing down the rotors somewhat. The braking effort thogh is non stop. No fade what so ever. Get em cherry red and they keep braking. They even grip better when they are hot.

And just FYI, the rear rotors are custom made by EGR for the Rams. They use calipers from a 77-78 Cadillac Eldorado. Same with the pads. They are big pads too. Bigger than the fronts. Their flex lines are nice. The whole kit installs quiet easy.


Anyway dude, I hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if I forgot anything else.


Good luck.


[IMG]local://upfiles/12792/843ED070630C4C2C844B8193F2372475.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/12792/E689C96045F74E679462D0DC8DC14AFC.jpg[/IMG]
 
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:47 PM
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I know this is a super old thread but what can I do about the proportioning valve issue. Somthing a little more simple then gutting the system as like you said the pads are hard and actually worn down half the rotor. I just got new pads,rotrs,and calipers so don't want this to happen again. Also the rotors are way to much from egr the want like 150 a rotor. The rotors off a 1988 f250 3/4 ton (front) are the same and only 33 bucks. Much better price.
 
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Old 03-23-2013, 10:17 AM
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You can either get the mastercylinder, and p-valve from a truck that had the same brake system as you are now running, or , get an adjustable proportioning valve from some speed shop. (jegs, or summit with both carry them.)
 
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Old 03-27-2013, 09:19 PM
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Howells, what have you come up with?
 
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Old 05-21-2013, 10:42 PM
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Well I'm still working on it. But I will let you know what I come up with. Right now I have ordered a adjustable proportioning valve and am going to try it in a week or so. I just installed new pads rotors and calipers and having a problem with the pads being loose and causing a soft pedal so Hopfully this will also help with this issue.
 
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:17 PM
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Let me guess, you used cheap pads, thermo quites or the such. I see it all the time at work, especially with the Wagner thermo quites, fit loose as hell.
 
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:34 PM
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Ya I got cheap pads. Played around with the calipers abit more. Ended up taking them off the mounts and having some else pump the brakes to get the pistons out and then pushed them in just far enough to make a tight fit on the pads. Also I took the lever off for the ebrakes and played around with the nut moving the ebrakes in and out. Reinstalled caliper and bleed system again. Brakes are much better and soft pedal is gone. I am still waiting for the proportioning valve to come in then I have decided to gut everything. No more combo valve or abs. Dosent look to bad to remove all of it. Just don't really like to brake lines. Will update when installed
 
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Old 07-04-2013, 12:15 PM
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Well I got my porportioning valve in today still have to bleed the brakes but I will update when finished. Just wanted to update. Removed combination valve and abs.
 
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Old 07-04-2013, 01:08 PM
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Be careful of what you remove/bypass. Liability issues could come into play in the event you have accident. Just Sayin'
 

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