I have NO clue how you did this solo... We've got two jacks and we're still fighting to get all the pins lined up. I'm about to rip to Canadian Tire to pick up some deep seated impact sockets so I can finish up the ubolt nylon nuts.

Pictures:









Pretty much finding that it's taking a fair bit of playing to try and get all the pins lined up. Seems like the axle might be tilted forward too much, but sorting through it.

InfO.

 

Merc, either you weigh like a buck or my springs are just THAT soft. hahahah


As for the shim, what makes you think the wide part points to the rear? When you add lift and no shim the pinion angle rotates up. You need to push it back down with the shim, which means putting the wide part on the pinion side.

Do you have 2 floor jacks? Best to put one on the pinion, use a wood block. That way you can rotate at will. 2nd jack goes right under the pumpkin. What also helps are ratchet straps around the axle tube to back by bumper. This will allow you to pull axle back in a controlled manner.

Also, it should be easier w/o the rear of the spring bolted up while doing the ubolts on the axle.

 

WN; I weight 190lb I think your springs are done for. I can bounce my truck 1/2-1" max thats it, like just me on the bumper and these are still gas springs for now.


OP; Shoot us some pix of the pinion when on the ground, the Sj rear springs also move the diff forward just a bit. I spent a good four hours under the truck doing this work. I also had to go back twice to fix or change some things after the truck was on the ground things change when under its own weight. If you think you have to much pinion angle swap the blocks side to side this will change it about 3 d if I remember right WN might have more infor on that.

 

I took that info out of the instructions - they state to have the wide end of the shim facing the rear end of the truck. Which states then that the longer part of the leaf is on the rear end as well.

The pictures above show the angle of the shim - wide is pointing to the rear.

I'll hook up the racket strap and change where the jacks are.

Edit:

Yeah, I double checked the instructions. The one wedge is right in the leaf pack, the other wedges came loose. Here is a picture of the instructions:



InfO.

 

Thats is the way to put them in your on track. You can't swap springs end for end that will not work. There are small heals cast into the lift blocks if needed you can grind one side off each block this will let you fine tune the pinion angle if you feel the need, they must be ground the same for both side as close as possible, even the back heels will need a touch of grinding.

 

Alright, I've tightened them up. Here are a few pictures - I will tighten more once I get the shock absorbers on, drums, wheels, and lower onto itself to absorb some of the weight.







Also, I measured from the center of the tube between the ubolts and the backside of the drum to the forward eye bolt on the leaf spring - seems to be 29 3/4" both sides. My buddy is doing a measure right now as well to see if he comes up with the same thing.

 

Looks all good to me, does not matter what his truck is just as long as they are both the same #'s on each side. from what I can see and yes it's not on the ground yet but the pinion angle looks good as well.

 

Naw, I meant he is measuring it on my truck as well. You know, someone else to check to make sure I can do math ;o)

Tightened it up a bit, just put in the shocks. Pictures:







And now are about to try and jack it all up from the axle, put on the drums and toss on my old tires (new ones aren't on wheels yet).

 

Annnnnnd... touch down!

*** end is on the ground:

Old tires and wheels...


About to lower it...


Touchdown!


Diff


Stuff to be done still...


I know, brake lines have to be moved / adjusted, lots of that stuff has to be done. Torquing down bolts, etc. But I'm happy the *** end is done.

InfO.

 

Hey now what's with this red brake drum thing going on ??????

Looks good bud nice work, well done. It needs 37's

For bending the brake line tubing I use three 1/4 drive sockets screwed to a piece of plywood, then I bend around them. Put the tubing down on the wood, then screw one socket to the board on the underside of the tubing then one on the topside of the tubing about 3/4" back from the first one. This will let you make most bends without crushing the tube. The third socket it to be placed wherever you need it to make odd bends. NO pliers or needle nose or anything with a sharp edge should be used to bend a line, you will kink it for sure.

I can post a pic if you need one.