awesome. makes me feel a little better. Didn't do much for the engine today.. Pops came over and we knocked out the heater core. might mess with the engine a little tonight. we'll see.

I opened up the double roller box and noticed there is 2 "0"'s on the crank gear.

Which one am I lining up with the cam gear mark? The Keyway "0" or the other "0"

 

The "other" 0, like in the second picture.

Again though, the key ways will guide you. Just don't just the "A" or "R" (which I'm assuming mean advance and retard, respectively).

Check your documentation to make sure which one keeps your timing stock.

 

just seen this one till now...

I didn't check the marks on the balancer before removing it and the timing cover.. plus it was all nasty and covered so I just planned on doing the "rotor button facing the #1 plug location on the Cap". But I'm just going to line up the marks on the gears now.


You said your marks didn't line up after setting the balancer at "0"... Did you leave it like that, or did you line the marks up before you removed the chain and gears? just wondering.

I have not broke the cam gear bolt loose yet, probably wait till tomorrow. not feeling too ambitious tonight after bending like a pretzel to install the heater core. This dash didn't give me much play like my 99 did. And don't get me started on the cheap *** plastic dash, grrrrr... I "HAD" a nice dash


thanks again guys for not giving up on me yet, with the questions and all. I do have the FSM and Haynes and I have done my reading, but getting pretty confusing at times, one says this, other says that (some of which is pretty detailed) but then I hear its simple and im like...... mmmk..

i'm going to try and use the "KISS" method from here on out..

 

no paperwork in the box to check

 

I really just lined up the key ways. I didn't move a thing once I got the cover off. If it was in time before, and the new key ways line up just like the old key ways, then it'll be in time after.

You can line up the marks once the cover is off, sure, as long as you leave the chain on. Once you take the chain off, MOVE NOTHING.

I'm thinking the A, 0, and R are for "Advance 4 degrees," " 0 degrees", and "Retard 4 degrees," since that's what most of those multiple key way gears are. Mine had different shapes on the key way tops (flat, curved, and pointy) which was way more complicated if you ask me.

Go with 0.

 

Oh yeah, I'm also rocking the 5.2, and I think our balancers are different- you might not even have a timing mark on your balancer for all I know.

Either way, trust the key ways.

 

cool. thanks. I'm feeling more confident. Going to go out and line them up, just to have them lined up and i'll tackle the removal/installation tomorrow.

Thanks again.

 

Ok, kind of scared now...

I lined up the dots, marked the chain and gear with paint.. I looked at the rotor button and it wasn't facing the #1 plug location for the dist. cap so I started to turn the crank to try and find TDC on #1....

I have been turning it now for quite awhile, gave up on trying to find the #1 TDC and just want to line my marks back up on the chain and gear, but they will not line back up. like I said, I have been turning for awhile now...

did I F myself or do I just need to keep turning. I did notice while I was turning the crank it would kind of "bounce back" after I let off my pressure. Not sure if the cam "bounced back" with it...

I'm getting scared now. I need my truck, like 3 days ago

 

abort crash course...... got them lined back up, shhhhew....

but, my rotor button looks like it is a little off from where it was when I started turning the crank...

could that be from the "bounce back" cause my dumbass didn't take the plugs out before turning the crank and was building pressure?

should I leave it be, any options if not?

 

If the marks on the timing gears line up properly, you are golden. With both dots lined up at 12 (crank) and 6 (cam) cylinder 6 is actually in firing position.