Sparten locker ?
#11
I am far from being the most knowledgable here, but my .02...
I would not put the LSD up front, either go with a lunchbox locker or fully selectable. To me, with the LSD, you will not have any "control" over it. When one wheel spins, it will kick in the other, possibly pulling you in a straight line when you would rather turn. I loved my Detroit Trutrac but it was in the rear on my jeep. The lunchbox lockers will only click (and it can be annoying and you are always telling people that it's normal for "this" vehicle) when you are turning, when they are not under power. Once you engage the front axle, they then will engage and lock up when you have one tire slipping. Thus, you have some control over the locking and/or limiting action, engaging or not engaging the front axle. But, again, I am not the most knowledgeable here, maybe the LSD will not engage unless it's under power also.
Otherwise, you want a selectable locker, so you can engage it when you want (or disengage, like when completing tight turns). The lunchboxes are not as strong as the selectables, so bear that in mind, not sure what kind on wheeling you want to do.
But, definitely X2 on the cable actuator. Among other things, you will also have 2-lo.
I would not put the LSD up front, either go with a lunchbox locker or fully selectable. To me, with the LSD, you will not have any "control" over it. When one wheel spins, it will kick in the other, possibly pulling you in a straight line when you would rather turn. I loved my Detroit Trutrac but it was in the rear on my jeep. The lunchbox lockers will only click (and it can be annoying and you are always telling people that it's normal for "this" vehicle) when you are turning, when they are not under power. Once you engage the front axle, they then will engage and lock up when you have one tire slipping. Thus, you have some control over the locking and/or limiting action, engaging or not engaging the front axle. But, again, I am not the most knowledgeable here, maybe the LSD will not engage unless it's under power also.
Otherwise, you want a selectable locker, so you can engage it when you want (or disengage, like when completing tight turns). The lunchboxes are not as strong as the selectables, so bear that in mind, not sure what kind on wheeling you want to do.
But, definitely X2 on the cable actuator. Among other things, you will also have 2-lo.
Last edited by dbbd1; 06-05-2016 at 11:06 AM.
#12
There was another member here that had a detroit locker in his front axle, and after getting used to its behavior, loved having it there.... he had a nice video of cruising down snowy roads with lockers in both ends.....
Yeah, I have read/seen claims that lockers in front are a bad idea as well, but, like anything else, if you learn how to drive it properly, shouldn't be an issue?
Yeah, I have read/seen claims that lockers in front are a bad idea as well, but, like anything else, if you learn how to drive it properly, shouldn't be an issue?
#13
It really depends on what you do with the truck too.
If you use it for play, in the dirt and snow or whatever, you can lock both ends and it's no big deal.
If you use it for townie and road duty, in addition to some offroad or hunting stuff, a locker up front can be a real pain. That's kind of the way every mod is, I guess. And why almost every truck is modded differently.
I'm planning on doing the trans america trail in my Ram. Lots of highway miles. So, a locker isn't really on the table for me.
If you use it for play, in the dirt and snow or whatever, you can lock both ends and it's no big deal.
If you use it for townie and road duty, in addition to some offroad or hunting stuff, a locker up front can be a real pain. That's kind of the way every mod is, I guess. And why almost every truck is modded differently.
I'm planning on doing the trans america trail in my Ram. Lots of highway miles. So, a locker isn't really on the table for me.
#14
I think the biggest issue with lockers up front comes when you're in an overrun condition (engine braking on a downhill run).
I like the Eaton Detroit TrueTrac, as it balances differential action and traction under both power and overrun (until zero traction on one wheel, when it is totally locked up).
When totally locked, you get the same characteristics as any solid axle setup.
I like the Eaton Detroit TrueTrac, as it balances differential action and traction under both power and overrun (until zero traction on one wheel, when it is totally locked up).
When totally locked, you get the same characteristics as any solid axle setup.
#15
#16
#17
If you decide on the TrueTrac, you'll need dino gear oil without friction modifiers. That stuff is getting hard to find. I ended up with some O'Riellys House Brand 80W-90. All the name brands seem to have moved to synthetic or dyno with LSD (friction modifiers) already mixed in.
I noticed that you said with the Detroit True Trac to go with a dino gear oil. I have had one in for a little over a year now (rear 9.25 3.55's)
The shop that did the install is the most reputable in Las vegas told me to use synthetic. So I have been without issue. Have changed it 2 times in 5k to get rid of little bit of metal. Is clean now.
Does the ram rearend need the synthetic or can I use a dino oil. My front diff calls for a 75w-90 dino oil. Why does my manual call for synthetic in the rear and nonsynthetic in the front?
Thanks,
#18
#19
Thanks,
I got a gallon of 80W90 (LUCAS) a year ago and have been afraid to use it. It gets 115+ degrees here and I do carry a load from time to time.
I ended up doing a bunch of reading about this and pulled the trigger ordering some Amsoil severe gear 75w-140.
From what I read it is the best synthetic for the DTT and if I do have a problem with it switch to a Dino gear oil.
Guess I can use the 80W90 in the front if I ever burn through the 4 quarts of Mopar 75w-90 I have as back-up?
Appreciate the info.
#20