Did I Buy a bad PCM?
 

1998 Ram 1500 4x4 5.9

So, I pulled the truck into my shop to kinda just look things over as I have literally rebuilt it. Everything has been gone thru except the transmission. Rebuilt engine, axles converted to Dana 60/70, 241DLD transfer case. Only thing I have not touched is the transmission. Well, I ended up not even doing anything that night. Well, next day I must have left the key in the ignition on and it ran the battery dead. I threw my battery charger on it, put it to engine boost and went to start the truck. I remember the lights being really bright and the ignition key dinger being louder. Well, I went to start it and nothing. It just turns over and over. So I started checking things and I notice I have no fuel level indication, no oil press, no rpms from starter. Then my scan tool wont communicate with PCM. As I Googled and read multiple forums, it pointed to a faulty PCM.
I found one at a salvage yard for $35. I believe I got a 1998 as the seat pin connector is the 13 pin and I had once gotten some seats from a 2001 with the 3 pin connector as the seat belt module is located elsewhere on 2001 + (I believe, don't quote me). So I get home, plug in the new PCM and I get indications with power on. I start it and it runs for 2 seconds and dies. Then I start it again and floor it, it still dies at 2 seconds. So, did I just buy a bad PCM? Ive read on this forum as guys swapping PCMS from Ram Vans and using Performance PCMs with no VIN updates. So my situation should have been plug and play. Anything else I need to be looking for????

Here is some videos of the Bad PCM and Junkyard PCM startups.

There isn't really a way to tell for sure it's The PCM. But here is what you can do. There is a signal wire that goes from the PCM to certain sensors (I would use the crank sensor) turn the key and test the wire if it's getting the 5V, that would really you the PCM is good. Sounds like you may have an IAC problem. Now if your PCM is bad there is a company that will fix your PCM for about $125

I thought some packages had theft protection and needed a chipped key? If your PCM is from one of those, it won't run without the signal from the key.

Well, this truck will run with a stamped key (no chip). But I have tinkered and shot wiring, even swapped a IAC with one from my parts truck. Still same exact results. I am ready to order a correctly VIN coded PCM online. What are some reputable companies to go with? I heard bad reviews on FS1. Worried about ordering $200 junk with crappy customer service.

A cheaper option is have yours rebuilt. There is a company that will rebuild your pcm and it's only $125. Very reputable, many people here used them. I forget their name but I have it written down and can get it for you. Does your cluster say no bus?

I replaced my PCM on my 2004 Ram with a ebay sold one. My original PCM wasn't recognizing my o2 sensor. There was a part number tag on the PCM that I was matching when I was shopping for a replacement. The first PCM showed up in the mail, and did EXACTLY what yours is doing - start and run for a couple seconds and shut off. I contacted the seller and he just sent me another one, same part number as the first. That one would start and run the truck. However for the truck to pass emissions inspection in PA, I had to have it flashed to my VIN. I took it to the dealer to have the PCM flashed. The mechanic remarked that he was surprised the truck ran, as it usually takes the dealer flashing to make them run. He also said that the VIN was very close, only a couple numbers in the sequence was off. That told me that the configuration was probably the same.

So your junkyard sourced PCM might be just fine, but just needs to be flashed to your truck configuration. I think they charged me $75 to flash the pcm.

I do not have a "No BUS' in the odometer. The symptoms I have are in the videos I posted above. Yeah, sending it out to be rebuilt is probably my next option, but I want to deal with a reputable company.

To FJ5GTX, I live 40 miles to the nearest dodge dealer. This truck is dead, wont start long enough to turn the steering wheel. A tow truck is going to charge $100 to tow to dealer, then dealer charge $150 for reflash. This truck is my dirt road play toy, not my daily. Ill be fine with the downtime.

Talk to the folks at ECMExhchange, they are a sponsor here......

If it didn't say no bus I don't think it's your pcm

Ok, but how am I getting complete different indications from the dash? Look back at the two videos. One, I have no indication in the instrument cluster of fuel level, voltage, oil press, nothing. I turn the engine over and it doesn't indicate oil pressure nor register rpms from the starter engaging. As soon as I disconnect and swap the PCM's, it I get all indications back, fuel pump kicks on and the engine fires up, but just shuts down due to the junkyard pcm not being VIN coded.
All I am saying is, all fingers point to a bad PCM. And all of this was created by using a battery charger turned to engine boost which is 200A

ECMExchange, do they offer forum member discounts since they are a sponsor? They want $279 while everywhere else its like $199 or close to it