OK. I've resorted to starting an account and posting a thread.

I bought a 2001 dodge ram 1500 5.2l Laramie from a guy and thought it'd be an easy fix.

Originally the previous owner had the timing chain break and he replaced it. I set the timing with the camshaft dot down and the crankshaft dot up so that they faced each other. Should I have ensured tdc or anything else when I set the marks?

I also installed a new distributor cap and rotor. I noticed that he had two of the spark plug wires wrong which accounted for the misfires in the engine.

I've replaced the tps, iac, crankshaft position sensor, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, oil and filter, and now just replaced the fuel pump.

I did get a code before for two of the fuel injectors, so I thought it might have been low fuel pressure.

I removed the iac and can get it to idle poorly. When I replaced the iac before I thought id fixed it but now I still have the stalling/no idle problem.

I drove the truck a little earlier by holding the gas down to start it, putting it in gear, and using the brake and gas together to drive it.

Seemed to stall immediately in reverse.

Could there have been damage to the engine when the timing chain broke originally? Did i not set the timing right?

I noticed a wire coming from the steering column through the firewall and to the ignition coil. I'm wondering if it has some kind of security kill switch or something.

Also, I've owned a dodge ram before and I don't hear the fuel pump engage when putting the key to the on position.

And, there's something ginky with the key. When I turn the ignition off and take the key out the truck chimes and I can turn the ignition by hand where the key goes until it locks and turns off. Could it be a problem with the ignition switch or the steering column?

I know it's alot of random stuff but I'm getting desperate. Im broke and really need to get this truck running.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm thinking its either the timing wasn't set right or something with the IAC. It's almost like it has a shut off kicking in.

Thanks.

 

You do need to have cylinder 1 at top dead center then the distributor should be pointing to cylinder 1

 

I'll pull the distributor cap and check the rotor. What's the best way and easiest to be sure it's at TDC? Pull the spark plug at cylinder 1 and rotate the crankshaft until I feel air? Pull the valve cover and check the rocker arms? Look at the dial on the crankshaft?

And, if the rotor and TDC don't match... What's the solution? Is it the crankshaft that turns the distributor?

When the timing chain went, could that have messed up the camshaft and crankshaft timing and how can that be corrected?

 

It may be out of time which would require the timing chain if I'm not mistaken. I know the older lady engines you used a timing light and turned the distributor. To get the cylinder at top dead center in the compression strike turn either the crankshaft or hot the key until you hear air escape. The distributor rides the cam. You can download your FSM (Factory Service Manual that Chrysler used when you brought it to a Dodge garage) from the FAQ.

 

when you thought you had the idle issue resolved after replacing the iac, do you mean you just got it to idle without stalling or was it running good too? what brand iac did you use? anything but a mopar brand can give you issues. you also want to clean the throttle body out really good (removing it and doing it is best) especially where the iac is at.

a compression test would give you a good idea if any damage was done from the chain breaking

i have a wire going to my coil through my firewall too. its for my ignition interlock


same deal with the crank and cam sensors. only use mopar

 

Just read my FSM you can only index the distributor which is what I told you about cylinder 1at top dead center and the rotor pointing to Cylinder 1 then you line up a notch on the distributor and that is called indexing the distributor. It should run from there and the PCM will adjust it. Unless the fuel sync is off which can only be set by a garage with a DRB scan tool.

 

These will help you

 

Well Mopar thank you for the feedback. That's all kind of intimidating. I should be able to align tdc with the marks on the crankshaft. Then I can pull the distributor cap and see if it lines up with cylinder 1 mark and go from there.

 

I used AutoZone brand lol. I thought I had it fixed originally because I thought it was the tps at first. Ive noticed gaps in throttle body plates before which controlled the idle and the tps plastic teeth were busted. Then I couldn't get the tps to gap the throttle plate enough to hold idle so I realized that this throttle body wasn't like that. Im also confused which way the tps is supposed to go because I've seen the connector up and also the connector down in videos.

I really thought i had it fixed because when I replaced the iac with the AutoZone brand it cranked and idled good so I thought I fixed it and shut it off. Then later it wouldn't idle again and stalled.

If i wedge something in the throttle plate it will get enough air to idle.

The throttle body is actually pretty clean already. Is there a tiny hole for the iac i possibly missed?

The previous owner broke the old crankshaft position sensor off and I replaced it with the duralast (that's it) AutoZone brand.

Now, for the ignition interlock, as in DWI interlock device which prevents the vehicle from running? It's almost seems like it is being told to not run by some kind of shut off device.

The wire runs from the steering column to the ignition coil and also to a spring device on the driver's side that registers if the hood is open or closed. I broke that spring device when i was messing with it and lost the spring.

I'm also wondering if maybe my ignition coil is bad.

Should I buy mopar iac, tps, and crankshaft position sensor?

 

I read through the diagrams. Does it make a difference if I never removed the distributor at all? And, is this the only way to correct the timing if the rotor is off?

Thanks alot for your help.