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Fitment of 37s Can Be Done!

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  #11  
Old 09-14-2018, 08:53 AM
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Any flex what-so-ever is going to result in your tire tearing the inner fender liner off when it contacts the rear part near the firewall. You can get ahead of this by removing the plastic liner and either cutting or bending the protruding pinch weld (seam) that is behind the plastic.

The pictures you posted,
is that with your tire pointed strait ahead? what happens when you turn full lock?
I full understand wanting to run larger tires, but at the expense of drive-ability?? You should always choose function over form.
FYI - Im running long arms with the axle pushed 1.5" forward and i still had to remove the plastic wheel well liner and trim the pinch weld to clear 37"s at full stuff, lock to lock.
 
  #12  
Old 09-14-2018, 10:38 AM
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Default 3in progressive springs

So before I cut my whole fender off to gain more tire clearance. I was able to run 37’s no problem on just 3 in progressive springs off Dodgeoffroad. Yea I need new lower control arms but it works. The truck can still flex good with stock arms. I think if I went back to a leveling kit I could still run the 37’s to keep the truck as low as possible while crawling and still not rub. If you want to see what I’m talking about, it’s on my instagram. Photos on my phone won’t load up.
Deepdishjoe
 
  #13  
Old 09-14-2018, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Krupa
So before I cut my whole fender off to gain more tire clearance. I was able to run 37’s no problem on just 3 in progressive springs off Dodgeoffroad. Yea I need new lower control arms but it works. The truck can still flex good with stock arms. I think if I went back to a leveling kit I could still run the 37’s to keep the truck as low as possible while crawling and still not rub. If you want to see what I’m talking about, it’s on my instagram. Photos on my phone won’t load up.
Deepdishjoe
All I have is a 3in leveling kit. I won't buy anything from Dodge Off-road.
 
  #14  
Old 09-14-2018, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jlake4130
Any flex what-so-ever is going to result in your tire tearing the inner fender liner off when it contacts the rear part near the firewall. You can get ahead of this by removing the plastic liner and either cutting or bending the protruding pinch weld (seam) that is behind the plastic.

The pictures you posted,
is that with your tire pointed strait ahead? what happens when you turn full lock?
I full understand wanting to run larger tires, but at the expense of drive-ability?? You should always choose function over form.
FYI - Im running long arms with the axle pushed 1.5" forward and i still had to remove the plastic wheel well liner and trim the pinch weld to clear 37"s at full stuff, lock to lock.
I just went ooff-road last night at full flex they don't contact the fender. I can turn all the way to the right and 99% of the way to the left. The tire inly contacted they corner piece. Now it has full driveability
 



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