Potential Truck
#41
brand new lift and injector pump already, 4K miles on the new auto trans, new afe intake, 3 piece exhaust, and new brake rotors and pads. It doesn’t have any check engine light, but it does have a brake light and abs light on. Owner said he just hasn’t gotten the time to reset the codes for that
anything I should ask him?
#42
Brake light and ABS light are on for a reason. Just resetting them won't make them go away and not come back. The problem, whatever that may be, has to be fixed for them to stay off. Ask him if he has taken care of the killer dowel pin. The 12 valves and the newer 24 valves up to 2002 had that issue (12 valves for sure, not positive about 98.5-2002). But if its ran this long, he's likely taken care of it or just had luck on his side. If it hasn't been done, the timing cover comes off to fix it. Easy fix from what I've read about it.
#43
Brake light and ABS light are on for a reason. Just resetting them won't make them go away and not come back. The problem, whatever that may be, has to be fixed for them to stay off. Ask him if he has taken care of the killer dowel pin. The 12 valves and the newer 24 valves up to 2002 had that issue (12 valves for sure, not positive about 98.5-2002). But if its ran this long, he's likely taken care of it or just had luck on his side. If it hasn't been done, the timing cover comes off to fix it. Easy fix from what I've read about it.
Thank you
I'm going to look at the truck tomorrow at around 5 pm my time. Hopefully, all goes well and I bring it home, but if there are any other major issues with it I am still able to pass on it. let me know what you think please, and anyone else!
#44
#45
Most ABS issues cause the light to come on almost immediately, and it also clears as soon as something is fixed. I was still in my driveway after replacing the rear sensor and the lights went off. You could also just find a suitable surface and test if the ABS kicks in. CEL is a different story, typically codes go "pending" first and become "confirmed" after a while which then sets off the light.
Both trucks have some creative wiring under the hood, and on the gasser the intake connection from the fender well to the air filter box is missing (also check if the tabs on the back of the air filter housing are broken off). Neither are deal breakers but there's some work to be done.
Both trucks have some creative wiring under the hood, and on the gasser the intake connection from the fender well to the air filter box is missing (also check if the tabs on the back of the air filter housing are broken off). Neither are deal breakers but there's some work to be done.
#46
Most ABS issues cause the light to come on almost immediately, and it also clears as soon as something is fixed. I was still in my driveway after replacing the rear sensor and the lights went off. You could also just find a suitable surface and test if the ABS kicks in. CEL is a different story, typically codes go "pending" first and become "confirmed" after a while which then sets off the light.
Both trucks have some creative wiring under the hood, and on the gasser the intake connection from the fender well to the air filter box is missing (also check if the tabs on the back of the air filter housing are broken off). Neither are deal breakers but there's some work to be done.
Both trucks have some creative wiring under the hood, and on the gasser the intake connection from the fender well to the air filter box is missing (also check if the tabs on the back of the air filter housing are broken off). Neither are deal breakers but there's some work to be done.
Is it possible something was wrong with the brakes until he fixed it, but the sensor was still triggered until he cleared it, meaning the sensor was still good but something else was wrong?
Last edited by Jaw91097; 12-14-2018 at 02:46 AM.
#47
He got back to me, he said he got it cleared, he drove it to work and home, and the lights didn't show back up. I think you have to drive it for like a week? I'm not sure, but if it doesn't pop up in a week then its good right? I think I'm going to go get it either way, because I still have the daily honda to drive around while I get that sorted out before the inspection. Please correct me if I'm wrong because I don't know for sure if thats correct ^
Edit: Didn't see your response until after I posted my reply, sorry. In that case, are there any codes that would go away and come back? I've always had a brake light and abs light on in both of my previous dodges, but I never really cared.
Is it possible something was wrong with the brakes until he fixed it, but the sensor was still triggered until he cleared it, meaning the sensor was still good but something else was wrong?
Edit: Didn't see your response until after I posted my reply, sorry. In that case, are there any codes that would go away and come back? I've always had a brake light and abs light on in both of my previous dodges, but I never really cared.
Is it possible something was wrong with the brakes until he fixed it, but the sensor was still triggered until he cleared it, meaning the sensor was still good but something else was wrong?