Concerning the momentary switch, I understand that there are "NO" ( Normal Open ) switches and "NC" ( Normal Closed ) switches...
I havent taken the switch off the shifter handle yet to see how many wires there actually are, so I can try to figure it out.

Generally, TCC engages shortly after you hit third gear, it remains engaged until the truck downshifts, or, you press on the gas pedal hard enough that the trans drops out of O/D. (it will also disengage TCC, at least for a bit....) If yours is bouncing in and out of lockup, first thing to do would be replace TPS. It plays a big role in TCC lockup, and when it gets flaky, so does TCC. If you find that ANY minor change in throttle position will trigger TCC, time for a new TPS.

Switch is normally open. There are a few wires back there, two for the switch, and at least two more for the light. (controlled by the PCM.)

Thanks Hey You.
I got a look online at the switch, its 2 wires from the button to the connector, so should be no problem just snipping the wires and soldering in longer runners, and mounting to the dash.
As for the TTC, yeah, I think its time for the TPS to be changed out anyway. Before I started installing the Airgap, rockers, and the rest, I noticed that when I started it in the mornings, it would fire right up, then idle down like usual, then it would almost sound like it had a cam in it. Never sounded like it would stall, just a rough idle like a cam sounds, but the second you touch the throttle, it ran like normal. I was thinking that it had to do with, 1) the stock kegger leaking vacuum, 2) IAC, 3) TPS.
The stock kegger is gone and the thing idols almost perfect now, so its time to swap out the TPS and IAC. I usually clean them good every couple years, sometimes changing them out if they seem sketchy. Their so easy, kinda cheap, its a no brainer for starters.
I'm on a 93 octane tune as well, so between the tune, the manifold, the rockers, the stall change, 4.11 rear, the throttle response is very touchy anyway, and I'm just worried since most of my driving is through town.. ( almost all of it actually) the lock-up in and out will wear on the trans. The trans is a complete rebuild and work up, so I dont want to scrap it just yet...LOL

I'm actually looking for info on the difference the way the tranny acts when the O/D button is "off" and when its on, in regards to the locking TC.We all know there's a definite difference in the drive when the O/D is off...I just wonder if the TC stays locked up? ( at least until your very low in RPM's like coming to a stop..) Or is everything the same, with the exception of not being able to go to 4th gear.
I know when my O/D is off, it feels like 1st, 2nd and 3rd are locked up. Both in acceleration, and De-cceleration. As I said, the reason I worry is, I drive with the O/D off most of the time.
But I'd like to understand whats going on better, that I know.
My trans guy, ( also swaps out my gears for me.. THREE TIMES...LOL ) says dont sweat it, its built so you can do that. In his words, " I just rebuilt that whole sucker, better parts, better stall, shift kit, I built it to run...dont be affraid to beat the hell out of it.." :icon_eddie:
Then again, he's the one that gets paid to fix it if I screw it up....:icon_doh:

Disabling overdrive does a couple things. I raises shift points, and I *think* it also increases running pressures, so you get better clamping on the clutches/bands. You still only get TCC in third gear, but, I think it holds it longer when you let off the gas. (engine braking.)