I did a search but did not find specific answers to my questions...just a lot of good info.

OK I will start with the specs of my truck:
1997 ram 1500
318
auto trans (46re)
195,000 miles
(The rest is in my sig.)

So here are my questions:
[ol][*]Fluid hasNEVER been changed in the transmission (I know not good) [:@]but should I go ahead and change the fluid and adjust the bands?[*]How many quarts oftranny fluid does it take to change it?[*]What does this mean and do I need it?[align=left]CAUTION: If Adapter C-3705 is needed to reach the[/align][align=left]adjusting screw, tighten the screw to only 5 N·m[/align][align=left](47-50 in. lbs.) torque.[/align][*][align=left]Can you adjust the front band without adjusting the rear band?[/align][/ol][align=left]Are there any other tips or tricks I should know? I have printed the service manual for dodge trucks and adjusting the bands on an automatic. I amfairly knowledgeable when it comes to mechanics but just wanted to make sure.[/align][align=left][/align][align=left]Thank you,[/align][align=left]Brad[/align]

 

You need a manual the first time around, a BIG drain pain (bigger is better) and a few hours of time.
It's not that hard, I do mine all the time...
First time or two is a bit *&%^, but after that it's easy.
Still, have plenty of time so you don't get yourself in a rush.

You also need:
A transmission filter kit.
A fairly complete tool set, rags, gasoline, newspaper, a container to put the bolts, possibly a torx bit set (read the manual).
As a rule, when I DIY, I get 6 quarts of ATF but only refill 5 and keep the 6th in the truck.
You can try and check the dipstick but that is a waste of time because it is a pita to try and get a correct reading... Mostly, I just drive my truck and IF the trans slips a little after the procedure, I dump the 6th quart in there but otherwise I leave it alone.

Since, when you DIY, you will only get maybe 50% of the old fluid out, this procedure needs to be done every 10,000 miles or every 3rd oil change (I assume you change oil every 3k with conventional, 3.5-6k if you use synthetics).

Important to get all the muck out of the trans pan!!!

 

Thanks topsites

yeah I stay consistent with my oil changes (2500 to 3000 miles)...but for some reason never thought about the transmission ...always owned manuals until now.

 

Don't feel bad, I'm guilty of the same thing but once I got into it, I feel better about my truck nowadays.

You can also take it someplace and for $100 or so have them do it - Pro shops have machines that can suck out about 90% of the fluid so you can let it go longer between changes (20-30k), but I still prefer to do it myself, something about the satisfaction of hands on repairs.

The other benefit to DIY is you can see for yourself if there are shavings in the pan (and how many, and how big).
As a rule, the first time you will see them and don't worry too much, some is normal.
But, if after the first time you continue to find large amounts of shavings, then you're driving too hard (and this has helped me realize that if I didn't let off the throttle I would ruin a trans, yet another way in which it prolongs the life of the trans).
The muck is normal, and a few dot-sized shavings as well.
What is not normal is a lot of shavings, and if they're bigger (like the size of a flea, for instance).

But yeah, if you change your own oil, it's not that bad, just one more thing to do on a regular basis.
You'll thank yourself, it really prolongs the life of transmissions considerably (it could and should last the life of the vehicle).
On my '86 it didn't do much other than it got done (and made me realize I needed to drive it easier).
But on my newer '95 (that I just bought 1-2 weeks ago), it completely restored several ailing transmission issues (vehicle was shifting erratically and sometimes hard, and it's running a lot better now since I changed filter and fluid).

Oh yes, it does get a bit messy, wear old clothes and be prepared to shower afterwards.

 

Thanks for the good info topsites

Brad

 

normaly i would not say anything, BUT,1st, how are you able to get the fluid out of the tourqe converter by removing the filter pan, 2 , any metal what so ever is bad, if the fluid is dark, off red, that is bad. the fluid should be red like transmission fluid, if is smell burnt something is wrong ,these are tell tail signs something is wrong in the transmission, like hard to breath and chest pains, might be a heart attack or the farts donno. in some cases the fluid my be what is keeping the trans from falling apart. go to jiffy lube and ask them to change you dark or burnt fluid, they are more then happy to take your money and do it. ask the transmission pros they will have you sign a waiver first saying they do not recomend the change.

do what you feel is best for you and topsites good luck to you. there is an advantage to haveing your wife work for aamco transmissions

 

pavementsucks.com is down right now, but go there thursday and look in the 'tech' tab for a nice writeup on transmission service.

some extra tips are:
1, as you loosen the pan, since the fluid level is above the pan gasket, it will begin to leak all around and make a huge mess. try to loose the rear more than the front, use a big drain pan, and just let it run out until it gets down to the top of the pan.
2. a trans pan full of fluid is very heavy and very awkward. i slid the drain pan out of the way and then put my floor jack under the pan, jacked it up snug to hold the pan in place, and then removed all the bolts. then gently lower the jack, keeping a death grip on the pan, and dump it over into the drain pan. move the jack and slide the drain pan back under trans, because its dripping. spread kitty litter or oil-sorb all over the ground/floor.
3. DONT lose the magnet in the bottom of the pan, its supposed to be there. spray out pan clean with brake cleaner or gas.
4. buy a drain plug kit from parts store ($5), and install in bottom of pan. it makes it a lot easier next time. i positioned mine in the right rear, in the middle of one of those formed squares. most kits require you to drill a 1/2 in hole.
5. use only ATF+4 fluid, avail at Dodge, AZ, Napa, Walmart. It takes 6 qts to fill mine up. only check the fluid with eng running and in neutral (pumping to TC), not in park (not pumping).
6. dropping the pan only removes about 1/2 the fluid. TC, VB, cooler, and lines still hold old fluid. some people disconnect a line and let it pump out old fluid. i figured that was too much trouble, so i just changed mine a second time about 2 weeks later. (did mine for first time at 120k.)
7. i left the bands alone.

 

Good idea leaving the bands alone... there is a minute amount of adjustment available anyhow....ever see a band out of 1 of these trannys....almost no adjustment possible. If it does wear the band, its to the metal immediatly..

 

That is simply not true.
That's like saying if you cut open your oil filter after changing your oil and if there are any metal particles, your engine is toast. Some metal is ok, because as transmissions [like any other metallic operating object]operate, the metal does wear down some. If you have lots of metal and/or big filings, than I would say there is something to worry about.
If the transmission fluid you use currently have is ATF+4, since its synthetic, they say the color and smell of the fluid is not a way to draw conclusions about the condition of the fluid.
Also, just because the fluid isn't new-color red doesn't mean your transmission is trash. That would be like saying that, just because your engine oil doesn't look brand new, your engine is in need of replacement. As fluid gets used, it will change color. If your transmission fluid is starting to get dark, it would probably be a good idea to change it, but I wouldn't necessairily say that it, in and of itself, says, "your transmission is toast."

Anyways... I agree with dhvaughan about the drain plug thing. I did a tranny fluid change on my Dakota without a plug, and I regret I didn't put one on back than, since I've got another service coming up (but this time, I'll be installing one )

 

i'm not saying it is toast, i am saying something is wrong. metal shavings? try to sharpen a knife with a file. a file is digned to remove metal from the knife to sharpen it ,and after time, say 2000 rotations per minute for a year you will end up with a nub. the grears are not suppost to rub and after time the gearswill break down, the metal particals are an earlysign some thing is wrong. unless you can see through your trans houseing how far is,"some were down", acceptable befor your trans goes out and leaves you on the side of the road and the hot chick you picked up leaves with some one else and all you get is a tow bill that night.

blue smoke out the exhaust means what?
white smoke out the exhaust means???????
tapping ing the engine could mean alot of things.
drain theoil and there is a some milky substance in there taht means what?

i'm not saying your trans is shot but there is something wrong, but like i said before good luck