Hey guys,

I've been mulling over Burning Rom's thread about the GMC 1 ton wheel cylinder swap.In my research, I noticed the '00 and '01 Ram has different Driver and Passenger side wheel cylinder part #'s while the older Dodges (pre '99) don't specify. Moreover, the '01 1500 and 3500 CTD have the exact same cylinder with a 1" bore, so by Dodge's account I have HD wheel cylinders.I want beefier!All the picks I can find of the wheel cylinders from '01's look a little different than the pre 99's look, and I don't know if the swap is possible.

Have any of you guys converted the 1 ton dually GMC wheel cylinders into a '99-'011500?

Steve suggested to me to go to a Dodge junkyard and pull a part a scrap rear end to try, but those guys down here are reallytight with there parts down here inour area. I doubt they'd let em try it just for the heck of it. If anyone's done it, that'd be allI really need to know to buy the parts and get after it.

 

This is the reason I havn't done it yet. The 01 braking system is very differnt then the pre 01. The front has dual pistion calipers and the rotors are larger. I'm sure there is several other changes as well.

 

rule of thumb is get the same year part as the year of the truck , so if you got an 01 you should be looking at an 01 2500 or 3500 . jump on advance auto website and compare that year with the 2500 , 3500

 

Already checked that,

In 01 the Chevys and GMC's went to something else (probably disc) As mentioned before, the Dodge 1 tons are the same as the 1500, 1" bore.

 

hmm well in curious if anyone has tryed the swap on a pre 99 1500...

aim if you have the same as the 3500's i see no reason it shouldn't work for you

 

i haven't done this yet, but i've thought about it a lot.
the reason the 01 dodge has different part number for left rear vs right rear is the angle of the hole for the brake line, which comes in a little slanted instead of straight. the older years had straight drilled and tapped holes (same as mid-90's chevy).

the 00's and 01's have slightly bigger wheel cyl bore than the older years. But the chevy dually is a whopping 1-3/16. you can get any year in mid-90's chevy 3500.
note the brake line hole is straight in, so you have to do just a very mild bend of the brake line in the 00 and 01.

here's an example. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,1952

napa part number is 37337. ('95 chev c3500)
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...ylinder+-+Rear

 

dhvaughan,

Are you kidding me? The only difference is the "wedge" that the brake line feeds into instead of going straight into a flush cylinder face? Good grief. Well actually,... that's great! Now I know what I'll be doing this weekend. New shoes and wheel cylinders. I'll let you all know how it goes. Anybody got a recommendation on some good shoes?

 

aim keep me in the loop its something i wanna do too....when i get time, but i thinkhate working on brakes the most...


and i want pics too hehehe

 

Be careful with the wheel cylinder choices. On my 2500, I tried the upgrade and bought the ones that the original post suggested (96 Chevy 1-tons, I think). My master cylinder didn't have nearly enough volume to move them and the pedal went to the floor. I nearly pulled my hair out before I removed the wheel cylinders and checked the sizes--they were 1-1/4"! That's 3/8" larger than the stock 7/8" '98 2500 HD units. I went back and bought stock 7/8" replacements and it's better--not perfect, but better. I don't think the rear brakes are pulling their weight, and I'd like to find1" or 1-1/16" cylinders and see if they help. 1" cylinders might be as big as you can go before maxxing out your master cylinder. Don't go too big and make sure you're getting the correct size no matter what part number is attached to it.

Hope this helps.

 

What about upgrading the master cylinder? I upgraded my rear brakes and I can sure lock up the rears. Sometimes it feels like there is too much pedal travel until pressure builds. This is one of those items on my list of things to tend to one of these days.