would you replace timing chain w/water pump
#11
03-22-2007, 02:39 AM
RE: would you replace timing chain w/water pump
water pump. https://dodgeforum.com/m_224411/tm.htm
plenum. https://dodgeforum.com/m_249261/tm.htm
plenum. http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/...hp?topic=17043
timing chain http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/timingchain.php
rear seal http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/rearmain.php
what started this for me was when the water pump bearing went out - grinding, clacking, dragging on engine sometimes stalling. i had to have it towed home. after studying the tech postings above, it seemed like the right thing to do at 130k miles was to go ahead with timing chain, oil pump, all hoses, thermostat, tune up, plenum (leaking), valve covers, oil pan, and rear main seal (all leaking), coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor. once you get all the stuff off the front and top of the moter, it gets fairly easy to work on.
some things not in the other posts....
this was a big job for me, and took me almost a week.
i labeled each end of every hose, wire, part, and bolt i took off it.
i put each set of bolts in a ziplock bag and labeled them.
i took pictures before and during the job, and had to refer back to them when putting the alternator brace back on.
i used almost every tool i own, including air gun for harmonic balancer bolt, and had to go buy a 1-1/4 socket to fit it.
i spent 45 on towing, and then 700 on parts, including about 150 for Hughes plenum kit. if i could have planned it better and gotten the parts ahead of time from rockauto, i probably could have saved about 100.
i was unable to get the fan off the old water pump while it was on the truck, but was able to unbolt the wp and lift out the wp, fan, and shroud all at once, with a little help from wifey.
as soon as you get the fan off, go ahead and climb over into the engine bay and stand inside it to work. drag a picnic table or something over to hold tools and parts, or else you climb in/out 250 times (like i did)
there are drain plugs on each side of my 01 318 block. those are handy for draining the block. passenger side hides behind motor mount and was real tight but i finally got it out with vise grips.
on all the wires with the red tabs, slide back the red locking tab about 1/4 inch, then squeeze behind the red tab and gently separate the connector with screwdriver blade. this included the fuel injectors, starter, etc, etc.
to get the oil pan off you have to remove the bracing, the starter, and the dust cover. #@!%! when the dust cover goes back on it has to catch the lip of the oil pan or else the flex plate will hit it. i had to put this on/off 3 times to get it right.
a cheater pipe, long pull handle, or air gun saves you a lot of strain on teardown. the only thing i used the air gun on for assy was the harmonic balancer bolt (135 lbs). air gun is absolutely required to get this thing off. harmonic balancer puller is required to get it off.
results - great so far. no oil or water leaks. truck runs much better. cap and rotor were shot. plenum was sucking air bad. i was very hesitant to remove the main cap and replace the rear seal. i'm still not sure if it was a good idea or not to disturb that bearing. time will tell.
plenum. https://dodgeforum.com/m_249261/tm.htm
plenum. http://www.pavementsucks.com/forums/...hp?topic=17043
timing chain http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/timingchain.php
rear seal http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/rearmain.php
what started this for me was when the water pump bearing went out - grinding, clacking, dragging on engine sometimes stalling. i had to have it towed home. after studying the tech postings above, it seemed like the right thing to do at 130k miles was to go ahead with timing chain, oil pump, all hoses, thermostat, tune up, plenum (leaking), valve covers, oil pan, and rear main seal (all leaking), coolant temp sensor and oil pressure sensor. once you get all the stuff off the front and top of the moter, it gets fairly easy to work on.
some things not in the other posts....
this was a big job for me, and took me almost a week.
i labeled each end of every hose, wire, part, and bolt i took off it.
i put each set of bolts in a ziplock bag and labeled them.
i took pictures before and during the job, and had to refer back to them when putting the alternator brace back on.
i used almost every tool i own, including air gun for harmonic balancer bolt, and had to go buy a 1-1/4 socket to fit it.
i spent 45 on towing, and then 700 on parts, including about 150 for Hughes plenum kit. if i could have planned it better and gotten the parts ahead of time from rockauto, i probably could have saved about 100.
i was unable to get the fan off the old water pump while it was on the truck, but was able to unbolt the wp and lift out the wp, fan, and shroud all at once, with a little help from wifey.
as soon as you get the fan off, go ahead and climb over into the engine bay and stand inside it to work. drag a picnic table or something over to hold tools and parts, or else you climb in/out 250 times (like i did)
there are drain plugs on each side of my 01 318 block. those are handy for draining the block. passenger side hides behind motor mount and was real tight but i finally got it out with vise grips.
on all the wires with the red tabs, slide back the red locking tab about 1/4 inch, then squeeze behind the red tab and gently separate the connector with screwdriver blade. this included the fuel injectors, starter, etc, etc.
to get the oil pan off you have to remove the bracing, the starter, and the dust cover. #@!%! when the dust cover goes back on it has to catch the lip of the oil pan or else the flex plate will hit it. i had to put this on/off 3 times to get it right.
a cheater pipe, long pull handle, or air gun saves you a lot of strain on teardown. the only thing i used the air gun on for assy was the harmonic balancer bolt (135 lbs). air gun is absolutely required to get this thing off. harmonic balancer puller is required to get it off.
results - great so far. no oil or water leaks. truck runs much better. cap and rotor were shot. plenum was sucking air bad. i was very hesitant to remove the main cap and replace the rear seal. i'm still not sure if it was a good idea or not to disturb that bearing. time will tell.
#13
03-22-2007, 02:45 AM
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RONNIEPIERCE (10-25-2019)
#15
11-16-2007, 10:41 PM
RE: would you replace timing chain w/water pump
sorry to repost old stuff, but i found this from March '07 that i forgot to put up
since i had to do the water pump, it was my intention to go into it once, and only once, and hopefully never ever do it again. so i replaced every hose, sensor, etc that i touched, with the exception of anything that was external to the engine, which i could easily get to later (serp belt, idler pulley, alternator, o2 sensors) and the tensioner, which i had already replaced last year, and the plugs which i had replaced a couple months ago. ( i did remove the spark plug heat shield tubes, blow them out with air first, as they are usually full of dirt) i did not have a chance to shop around, but when i checked rockauto.com later, they were cheaper on everything. autozone was cheaper on some things, but more expensive on others. i got some parts from autozone but most from another local place, that's not any particular chain store. here's my parts.
(autozone)
water pump (new, not rebuild) $63
bypass hose $10
antifreeze, 2 gal $16
hitemp teflon sealer $3 used on the bypass pipe, block drain plugs
oil filter and oil $14
black hitemp rtv $4
rear main seal, felpro, $15
torque wrench $20
1 1/4 socket $6
htr hose connector $7
(slacks auto parts)
timing set Cloyes C-3072, $50
timing gasket kit, felpro $18
oil pan gasket, felpro $28
valve cover gasket, felpro $37 ouch, but they're real nice.
oil pump $35
rad hose, upper $16
rad hose, lower $16
2 molded htr hose, $14 ea ***take your old htr hose and try to match them, or buy at dealer, pass side needs 90* on engine and driver side needs a 90* at firewall and 45* at water pump. cut them to length as needed, i spliced on the 45*
rotor $4
cap $12
lifetime wires $41
tb gasket $2
coolant temp sensor $14
oil press. sensor $35 ouch!
blue thread locker $11 ouch, recommended by hughes, so i used it. locktite would have been fine.
hughes plenum $146
total $607
since i had to do the water pump, it was my intention to go into it once, and only once, and hopefully never ever do it again. so i replaced every hose, sensor, etc that i touched, with the exception of anything that was external to the engine, which i could easily get to later (serp belt, idler pulley, alternator, o2 sensors) and the tensioner, which i had already replaced last year, and the plugs which i had replaced a couple months ago. ( i did remove the spark plug heat shield tubes, blow them out with air first, as they are usually full of dirt) i did not have a chance to shop around, but when i checked rockauto.com later, they were cheaper on everything. autozone was cheaper on some things, but more expensive on others. i got some parts from autozone but most from another local place, that's not any particular chain store. here's my parts.
(autozone)
water pump (new, not rebuild) $63
bypass hose $10
antifreeze, 2 gal $16
hitemp teflon sealer $3 used on the bypass pipe, block drain plugs
oil filter and oil $14
black hitemp rtv $4
rear main seal, felpro, $15
torque wrench $20
1 1/4 socket $6
htr hose connector $7
(slacks auto parts)
timing set Cloyes C-3072, $50
timing gasket kit, felpro $18
oil pan gasket, felpro $28
valve cover gasket, felpro $37 ouch, but they're real nice.
oil pump $35
rad hose, upper $16
rad hose, lower $16
2 molded htr hose, $14 ea ***take your old htr hose and try to match them, or buy at dealer, pass side needs 90* on engine and driver side needs a 90* at firewall and 45* at water pump. cut them to length as needed, i spliced on the 45*
rotor $4
cap $12
lifetime wires $41
tb gasket $2
coolant temp sensor $14
oil press. sensor $35 ouch!
blue thread locker $11 ouch, recommended by hughes, so i used it. locktite would have been fine.
hughes plenum $146
total $607
#16
11-18-2007, 01:17 PM
#17
01-06-2008, 09:06 PM
RE: would you replace timing chain w/water pump
how did the 4* advance work out? notice anything different in the low end? I drive 99% back roads and think that would help me out. do anything for MPG?
I have a leaky front main seal and would like to replace it, mean while replace all the other parts a long the way...
I have a leaky front main seal and would like to replace it, mean while replace all the other parts a long the way...
#18
01-21-2008, 12:11 PM
#19
09-22-2012, 08:50 PM
Professional
This thread makes me want to scream!
This thread makes me so mad at myself. I read it the first time and starting shopping around for parts thinking it absolutely made sense to do both together. Then the water pump went last Thursday night and I HAD to do it but I never pulled the trigger on the parts. Then in order to get the truck back on the road since it is my daily driver and only way to work I did the water pump without the timing chain that weekend. I guess on the bright side it should go easier for me now that I have gone almost that far and will be familiar with 75% of the job.
I had a timing set and everything for the waterpump and timing chain replacement in my "shopping cart" at a like 5 different places but never pulled the trigger and nobody local had one in stock that I would use. Luckily plenty of water pumps though. With the weekend there to get it back up and running and my current schedule during the week I just couldn't wait the entire week to do both.
Thanks for your help I never could have got it done with out your pics and tips!
I had a timing set and everything for the waterpump and timing chain replacement in my "shopping cart" at a like 5 different places but never pulled the trigger and nobody local had one in stock that I would use. Luckily plenty of water pumps though. With the weekend there to get it back up and running and my current schedule during the week I just couldn't wait the entire week to do both.
Thanks for your help I never could have got it done with out your pics and tips!
