i called the shop that recommended me and needless to say they were not very happy either. they call the guy and he didnt pick up for them and they left him a message


pretty sure they arent gonna be sending stuff to him anymore either

 

HEY dakotaff, you happen to know a website that still sells these LED taillights? I believe the resistor is starting to go on one of them, it blinks fast if i have the blinker on and when i shut the truck off, the light dimmly stays on for like a minute then shuts off (wierd). If anything it looks like the resistor is just a plug and play

 

This site still has them. I'm not sure exactly what watt the resistor was that originally came with the lights. Maybe if you pull yours out, it may be printed on the box somewhere. I would think any 25 watt LED Bulb Load Equalizer would do the trick. They come in 50 watts too, as well as other wattages. Check out the video below, the guy installs a 25 watt resistor for his full LED tail light. You can buy them online or in stores.

 

Cool thanks man! Probably going to try to fix it with a new resistor or resistors cause that price for a new pair is a little steep lol

 

The wattage required is computable with the resistance and the voltage.

Or if you just plan on sinking enough to emulate a incandescent lamp.

Let's see what a 6 ohm resistor would take.

Presuming 12V (makes the math easy!), the free air dissipation from Ohm's Law should be:

E=IR
E/I=R
12/I=6
12/2=6

So, we'll be doing 2 amps through that resistor at 12V.

P=EI
P=12*2
24=12*2

So, our minimum (!!!) free air dissipation is 24 W. Minimum standard value is 25W, so that's ... a value that will run hot and will be prone to burning out, unless it's heat sunk against something that can pull the heat off (like a metal frame rail).

It would be better to use 50W resistors, to give you a 2/1 margin (that will be partially scrubbed off because it won't be where the heat can dissipate well).

A higher wattage unit will also cover in case the voltage is more than 12V (like it should be! 12V just made the math easy.)

Now, how does that relate to the tail lights?

Well, for a 1157, standard power for the bright side is 27W at 12.8V . A 3157 is 26.9W again at 12.8V.

So, a 6 ohm resistor will only guarantee for ONE bulb.

A 3 ohm 75 to 100 W will fake for TWO bulbs.

This is just something to keep in mind when looking for a resistor.

(Again, my take - I want to use LEDs to REDUCE the current draw at night. Using a resistor defeats that, so I've got LED compatible flashers in my 1988. Alas, by Gen3, that was no longer an option ... so I'd leave incandescents in the sockets myself. YMMV, and it IS your truck.)

RwP

 

I didn't read every post on this thread. But i want to see someone fit up some JW Speaker Led projector headlights to our trucks ;-)

First one to finish the challenge gets a thumbs up....GO!

 

I'm thinking these http://www.jwspeaker.com/products/he...tive-headlight should bolt right up!

Now, if I can just find the 75Volt tap . . .