2005 Dakota Quirks?
#11
02-23-2017, 11:44 AM
Sounds familiar. I had a seized up steering column. It was sticky and stiff at certain points in the wheel rotation. Fixed it with penetrant and lube. I guess ill just try to keep it lubed. My steering column makes the clunky noise too when i hit washboard or bad oscillating bumps that kick the wheel back and forth; a juddering, if you will. Havent figured that one out yet. My rack is also acting up, and is a known issue for some. There is a mild amount of play in the wheel, and then it is a bit lurchy in response. Sometimes it feels like the steering moves by itself (it actually does). Makes minute steering corrections tricky at speed. I plan to replace the rack at some point, and would like to find something heavy duty
Yeah that sounds exactly like what my truck is doing, minus the lurchy response. Definitely makes for sawing the wheel at interstate speeds!
As for my cranking issues, turns out I pinched a wire with the bell housing and cost myself a TON of extra work and expense! Lesson hard learned there.... I thought I was careful enough to push that all out of the way too but I guess not!
#12
02-24-2017, 01:52 PM
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The 2005 has some specific quirks that you're encountering. None are that terrible, but need to be dealt with.
The steering and front ends need some love usually. The intermediate steering shaft that connects the column to the rack (in the engine compartment) has 2 U joints on it. They never had grease fittings and the U joints seize. It makes the steering clunky and almost dangerous sometimes as it sticks. The solution is to simply replace the part, which is pretty cheap. Its usually that, not really the upper column thats under the dash
The front suspension was nasty in 2005. I replaced all the parts for pretty cheap, and all was good. Both control arms (lowers are most important), tie rod ends and wheel bearings. Also, the shock/spring assembly is atrocious, and is a simple replacement. Finally, the front sway bar end links and D bushings wear out, and can make a clunking sound.
You obviously don't have to bare the expense of doing it all at once, but doing these a piece at a time help immensely.
As far as brakes, the rotors are like any modern rotors, which is they warp easily because of tight tolerances. I've tried numerous brands of rotors and pads, and finally, I can say the EBC green pad with their slotted rotor has lasted me the longest without warping. I went through about a dozen different rotor types on my 05, 010, and now my 08, and I'm sticking with EBC.
It is possible that the brake shimmy is related to front hub bearings as well. Its worth it to get a decent bearing assembly. I tried the no name ones and had a premature bearing failure, so went back to Timken.
Once you get the front end sorted out, the thing is great to drive every day. But they definitely need some attention.
The steering and front ends need some love usually. The intermediate steering shaft that connects the column to the rack (in the engine compartment) has 2 U joints on it. They never had grease fittings and the U joints seize. It makes the steering clunky and almost dangerous sometimes as it sticks. The solution is to simply replace the part, which is pretty cheap. Its usually that, not really the upper column thats under the dash
The front suspension was nasty in 2005. I replaced all the parts for pretty cheap, and all was good. Both control arms (lowers are most important), tie rod ends and wheel bearings. Also, the shock/spring assembly is atrocious, and is a simple replacement. Finally, the front sway bar end links and D bushings wear out, and can make a clunking sound.
You obviously don't have to bare the expense of doing it all at once, but doing these a piece at a time help immensely.
As far as brakes, the rotors are like any modern rotors, which is they warp easily because of tight tolerances. I've tried numerous brands of rotors and pads, and finally, I can say the EBC green pad with their slotted rotor has lasted me the longest without warping. I went through about a dozen different rotor types on my 05, 010, and now my 08, and I'm sticking with EBC.
It is possible that the brake shimmy is related to front hub bearings as well. Its worth it to get a decent bearing assembly. I tried the no name ones and had a premature bearing failure, so went back to Timken.
Once you get the front end sorted out, the thing is great to drive every day. But they definitely need some attention.
#13
02-25-2017, 02:39 PM
The 2005 has some specific quirks that you're encountering. None are that terrible, but need to be dealt with.
The steering and front ends need some love usually. The intermediate steering shaft that connects the column to the rack (in the engine compartment) has 2 U joints on it. They never had grease fittings and the U joints seize. It makes the steering clunky and almost dangerous sometimes as it sticks. The solution is to simply replace the part, which is pretty cheap. Its usually that, not really the upper column thats under the dash
The front suspension was nasty in 2005. I replaced all the parts for pretty cheap, and all was good. Both control arms (lowers are most important), tie rod ends and wheel bearings. Also, the shock/spring assembly is atrocious, and is a simple replacement. Finally, the front sway bar end links and D bushings wear out, and can make a clunking sound.
You obviously don't have to bare the expense of doing it all at once, but doing these a piece at a time help immensely.
As far as brakes, the rotors are like any modern rotors, which is they warp easily because of tight tolerances. I've tried numerous brands of rotors and pads, and finally, I can say the EBC green pad with their slotted rotor has lasted me the longest without warping. I went through about a dozen different rotor types on my 05, 010, and now my 08, and I'm sticking with EBC.
It is possible that the brake shimmy is related to front hub bearings as well. Its worth it to get a decent bearing assembly. I tried the no name ones and had a premature bearing failure, so went back to Timken.
Once you get the front end sorted out, the thing is great to drive every day. But they definitely need some attention.
The steering and front ends need some love usually. The intermediate steering shaft that connects the column to the rack (in the engine compartment) has 2 U joints on it. They never had grease fittings and the U joints seize. It makes the steering clunky and almost dangerous sometimes as it sticks. The solution is to simply replace the part, which is pretty cheap. Its usually that, not really the upper column thats under the dash
The front suspension was nasty in 2005. I replaced all the parts for pretty cheap, and all was good. Both control arms (lowers are most important), tie rod ends and wheel bearings. Also, the shock/spring assembly is atrocious, and is a simple replacement. Finally, the front sway bar end links and D bushings wear out, and can make a clunking sound.
You obviously don't have to bare the expense of doing it all at once, but doing these a piece at a time help immensely.
As far as brakes, the rotors are like any modern rotors, which is they warp easily because of tight tolerances. I've tried numerous brands of rotors and pads, and finally, I can say the EBC green pad with their slotted rotor has lasted me the longest without warping. I went through about a dozen different rotor types on my 05, 010, and now my 08, and I'm sticking with EBC.
It is possible that the brake shimmy is related to front hub bearings as well. Its worth it to get a decent bearing assembly. I tried the no name ones and had a premature bearing failure, so went back to Timken.
Once you get the front end sorted out, the thing is great to drive every day. But they definitely need some attention.
I'm not surprised the front suspension is a weak point, even on my 07 RAM I had to replace the front struts at around 70-75k. The front shocks on this Dak are definitely ready for a change. Same with alot of these front end bushings. The rubber is worn through on them and they are on my list of preventative maintenance for sure. I already bought some O'Riley's brand rotors so I may as well install them for now but I'll hafta look into the EBC next time. You really can't go wrong with them.
Thanks again for the help.
#14
04-12-2017, 02:03 PM
I'm a little late to the discussion but here's my 2 cents.
First, nice truck! I have a 2007 TRX 4 with the 6 speed manual, but it's got the 3.7 V6. I wish I had the 4.7. From what I hear they only offered that combo thru 2006, so it's kinda rare...hold onto that thing!
I just rebuilt my front end, there was a minor amount of play. I did tie rid ends, struts, lower ball joints,
stabilizer bar end links, stabilizer bar bushings, and hubs/bearings. I got all the parts, and rear shocks too, for under $600 at Rock Auto and did it all myself. It is nice and tight now, no play, rides like a new truck. I had hell with the lower strut bolt and bushing on the drivers side though. You may want to order a new bushing and bolt from rock auto when you do it, it was only $18 bucks. And you'll need a ball joint press to get that bushing out. Or you could order new lower control arms that already have the ball joint and strut mount bushing already installed. That's a little more pricey but may be simpler, as long as the control arm bolts don't give you trouble.
I did have an end link break once, caused some clunking during turns. This is my third pair, I got greasable ones this time. Also got greasable ball joints. Yeah, the front end is a sore spot on these trucks. I got 140,000 miles outta mine before the rebuild, so I can't complain.
As for clutch, ive not had a lick of trouble out of mine (knock on wood) so I'm lucky there.
First, nice truck! I have a 2007 TRX 4 with the 6 speed manual, but it's got the 3.7 V6. I wish I had the 4.7. From what I hear they only offered that combo thru 2006, so it's kinda rare...hold onto that thing!
I just rebuilt my front end, there was a minor amount of play. I did tie rid ends, struts, lower ball joints,
stabilizer bar end links, stabilizer bar bushings, and hubs/bearings. I got all the parts, and rear shocks too, for under $600 at Rock Auto and did it all myself. It is nice and tight now, no play, rides like a new truck. I had hell with the lower strut bolt and bushing on the drivers side though. You may want to order a new bushing and bolt from rock auto when you do it, it was only $18 bucks. And you'll need a ball joint press to get that bushing out. Or you could order new lower control arms that already have the ball joint and strut mount bushing already installed. That's a little more pricey but may be simpler, as long as the control arm bolts don't give you trouble.
I did have an end link break once, caused some clunking during turns. This is my third pair, I got greasable ones this time. Also got greasable ball joints. Yeah, the front end is a sore spot on these trucks. I got 140,000 miles outta mine before the rebuild, so I can't complain.
As for clutch, ive not had a lick of trouble out of mine (knock on wood) so I'm lucky there.
#15
04-21-2017, 03:06 AM
Thanks for the info and truck compliment! My dad actually drilled and tapped the existing ball joints on my 2007 Ram to fit them with grease fittings and it's prolonged their life for sure.
I think I need to overhaul the whole front end on this truck. I checked out all the linkages and found a lot of broken rubber grommets. I will absolutely be making sure everything I replace has a grease fitting. You just can't go wrong with giving yourself room to do standard preventative maintenance. I think that's why so many muscle cars are still able to rock OEM parts decades later! It seems like modern autos expect to just replace parts rather than prolong them
I think I need to overhaul the whole front end on this truck. I checked out all the linkages and found a lot of broken rubber grommets. I will absolutely be making sure everything I replace has a grease fitting. You just can't go wrong with giving yourself room to do standard preventative maintenance. I think that's why so many muscle cars are still able to rock OEM parts decades later! It seems like modern autos expect to just replace parts rather than prolong them
#16
04-21-2017, 03:13 AM
Radio
My next project is this damn radio/speaker problem!
I finally took the dash apart expecting to find the blown fuse and the source of my problem and I got nadda! Every single fuse that I could find is intact including the stock amp fuse under the hood. I pulled my kick plate to check out the amp and couldn't find any obvious fuses. Think my next step is make sure the amp isn't fried? I'm not entirely sure how to do that.
I also need to figure out how to set my Axcess interface box. I don't have steering wheel controls but this truck is supposed to keep the radio on until the driver or passenger door is opened. The problem is that the radio is never turning off without manually turning it off, regardless of the keys/door/ignition combo. And if course I still don't have sound coming from my speakers.
Mechanical stuff i can fix all day. Electrical and especially audio stuff and I am lost in the sauce. Who's good at this and can give me pointers?
I finally took the dash apart expecting to find the blown fuse and the source of my problem and I got nadda! Every single fuse that I could find is intact including the stock amp fuse under the hood. I pulled my kick plate to check out the amp and couldn't find any obvious fuses. Think my next step is make sure the amp isn't fried? I'm not entirely sure how to do that.
I also need to figure out how to set my Axcess interface box. I don't have steering wheel controls but this truck is supposed to keep the radio on until the driver or passenger door is opened. The problem is that the radio is never turning off without manually turning it off, regardless of the keys/door/ignition combo. And if course I still don't have sound coming from my speakers.
Mechanical stuff i can fix all day. Electrical and especially audio stuff and I am lost in the sauce. Who's good at this and can give me pointers?
#17
04-21-2017, 04:06 PM
My next project is this damn radio/speaker problem!
I finally took the dash apart expecting to find the blown fuse and the source of my problem and I got nadda! Every single fuse that I could find is intact including the stock amp fuse under the hood. I pulled my kick plate to check out the amp and couldn't find any obvious fuses. Think my next step is make sure the amp isn't fried? I'm not entirely sure how to do that.
I also need to figure out how to set my Axcess interface box. I don't have steering wheel controls but this truck is supposed to keep the radio on until the driver or passenger door is opened. The problem is that the radio is never turning off without manually turning it off, regardless of the keys/door/ignition combo. And if course I still don't have sound coming from my speakers.
I finally took the dash apart expecting to find the blown fuse and the source of my problem and I got nadda! Every single fuse that I could find is intact including the stock amp fuse under the hood. I pulled my kick plate to check out the amp and couldn't find any obvious fuses. Think my next step is make sure the amp isn't fried? I'm not entirely sure how to do that.
I also need to figure out how to set my Axcess interface box. I don't have steering wheel controls but this truck is supposed to keep the radio on until the driver or passenger door is opened. The problem is that the radio is never turning off without manually turning it off, regardless of the keys/door/ignition combo. And if course I still don't have sound coming from my speakers.
1) The original installer took the easy shortcut around the CAN bus and connected both the Alpine's red (ignition) and the yellow (battery) wires together with the full-time hot lead coming from the battery/fuse block (bypassing power control from the ignition switch), or
2) The original installer connected the Alpine's red (ignition) wire to the cigarette lighter outlet's hot lead which can be controlled by the ignition switch, but can only be controlled by the ignition switch if that circuit's fuse is in the proper position on the fuse block that provides "switched" power to the cigarette lighter plug:
I would definitely check the position of that fuse first...It may just be that simple fix.
#18
04-21-2017, 04:29 PM
**Giving it another thought, since you mention that your truck has an amp by the kick plate (I assume it's a factory amp?), it's probably the CAN bus itself not powering the amp if the Axcess interface box isn't yet properly configured...I would work on getting that configured if all the other fuses look good. If you can't, there's always the long way of running new wires from the alpine straight to the speakers and bypassing an amp altogether...or bypassing each existing audio input wire going into the amp around the amp and connecting them to the amp-output wires going to the speakers. But since my truck didn't have a separate amp, I never had to deal with the amp issue or a CAN bus interface box...Just had to make sure the radio had the right power connections (as noted in my previous post) and that was that.
#19
04-22-2017, 02:26 PM
**Giving it another thought, since you mention that your truck has an amp by the kick plate (I assume it's a factory amp?), it's probably the CAN bus itself not powering the amp if the Axcess interface box isn't yet properly configured...I would work on getting that configured if all the other fuses look good. If you can't, there's always the long way of running new wires from the alpine straight to the speakers and bypassing an amp altogether...or bypassing each existing audio input wire going into the amp around the amp and connecting them to the amp-output wires going to the speakers. But since my truck didn't have a separate amp, I never had to deal with the amp issue or a CAN bus interface box...Just had to make sure the radio had the right power connections (as noted in my previous post) and that was that.
Thanks again for all the help on this y'all
#20
04-26-2017, 01:16 PM