Hey guys, I'm new to the forum and I want to learn more about doing repairs myself (if it's feasible). I am still learning everything so bear with me!

My husband took my Honda Civic down to Oklahoma this weekend to visit his mom, and left me with his 2005 Dodge Dakota. I was fine with that because his truck has the option for 4WD, and it's snowing here. Everything was going great until I was heading home from work on the highway, when I heard this awful metallic clanking sound. Almost sounded like a jack hammer at fast speeds.The truck also vibrated. So I took a side rode home going under 30 mph because that's when the vibrations got really bad. I was not in 4WD when this happened but the sound happened in 2WD AND 4WD.

Anyway, I crawled under the truck the next morning and I think I found the problem. I think I'm looking at the front drive shaft, and the CV joint seems to be nearly severed? It's very loose and I can move it around a lot. Do you think the CV joint just needs to be replaced, or should I do the whole front drive shaft? Assuming I identified it correctly. I've been looking at videos and pictures online, trying to figure it out. Haven't been able to get it to a mechanic yet...not sure if I should have it towed or if it's safe to drive at slow speeds. We just spent $1400 getting the steering column fixed, so I want to try to tackle this ourselves and try to save money if possible. Below is a video of the problem.

Thanks for your help! Katie

 

Video doesn't show.

Can you post a pic of the shaft?

On yours, I believe the shaft is turning, even in 2wd, so, rude noises all the time is reasonable. (for a broken part.) The driveshaft is only bolted in, so, relatively easy to change with just a jack, jackstands, and basic hand tools.

 

Here's a screenshot

 

Yep. Driveshaft, and that joint is toast. It's *possible* to replace just the joint, I think...... don't know if it requires special tools. It is certainly easier to replace the entire shaft, and that gets you a new u-joint on the other end as well.......

 

Here's a better picture.

 

Oh yeah, that's thrashed.

Ok, looking at pics of the parts online, changing that joint isn't that bad of a job. Pull the bolts that hold it in place, remove a snapring from the end of the shaft that you can now get to, take off the old stuff, put on the new stuff, bolt it back in place. There are even youtube videos on the topic. Parts look to be around 100 bucks give or take. (depending on brand) Whole new shaft is around 300 or so.... (again, depending on who you get it from.)

Only special tool you need is the snap-ring pliers..... basic hand tools for everything else. On a good day, (or, in a relatively comfortable place to work.....) should be about an hours work, if that.

 

Holy cow those bolts are on tight. Sprayed some WD40 on, tried to get leverage with my legs, they didn't even budge. I'm gonna have to get creative with this. I've read some people use a blow torch to loosen the loctite or whatever is holding it on, others have had to attach a pipe to the wrench. To be continued.

 

WD-40 is not your friend in this instance, you want PB Blaster. Works MUCH better.

If you can, a ratchet with a cheater bar works pretty good.....

 

my 2005 Dakota and our 2002 jeep liberty had the same issue, we just removed entire shaft and went to ebay for an exact replacement, just when you order, 26.25 shaft not the other

 

The CV can be replaced to restore the shaft. The part is Dorman 932-303. I did this job on ours just a month ago, right before Christmas travels. Not hard at all, though does take a couple hours start to finish. Parts were about half the price of a whole shaft. It is worth it if doing the repair as a diy. If getting a shop to do the work, it would be more cost effective to replace the whole shaft.

Looking at your pictures there is a good chance that the end of the shaft is damaged beyond reuse. It is truely fubar. In this case, you had best purchase a whole new shaft or a good used shaft. Use you may find from an auto recycler. New you may find online at many site options (eg Amazon) or locally at a driveline shop. When I was considering whole replacement on mine, the plan was going to be to bring the old shaft into the driveline shop and have them make up a new one based on the old one as a template.

Katie, It is not safe to drive the truck with that shaft as is. Regardless of whether using 2wd or 4wd, the shaft turns with the front tires. It will leave you stranded and could also cause an accident when the shaft fractures. You can remove the shaft and still drive the truck happily and safely until you figure out a repair/replacement. To remove the shaft, remove the 4 bolts at the yoke on the front differential. Then remove those 6 small bolts you see around the rim of the CV joint. The whole shaft can then be removed. The CV cup may take a few taps/wacks to free it from the yoke on the transfer case. Of course you will not have functional 4wd without the shaft. However you at least can have the truck safely operational. You can run it like that indefinitely until logistics or budget sorts out the new drive shaft. Just leave the switch in 2wd.

To remove rusty bolts; nothing, absolutely nothing, beats KROIL and a heat gun. Ultimately they have to come out. So yes get creative, which may be up to and including cutting the heads of the bolts off. My shaft was original. I sprayed kroil on the bolt ends on the back side of the Tcase yoke. Same at the front diff. Went for a coffee. Came back 30 minutes later. They came out just fine. If heat is needed to coax it to come loose, please use an electric heat gun. It is a lot safer than a torch when under an old truck with old grease and oil, and fuel lines nearby.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-35199-932-303.aspx

Hope that helps!