2011 Dodge Durango driver door won't lock/un-lock
 

My 2011 Dodge Durango driver's door won't lock or unlock with either the fob, the lock/unlock buttons on the door panels. When you push the fob or unlock with proximity, all other doors will unlock but not the driver's. Going around to the passenger door to push the unlcok button will not unlock it either.

Any ideas on how to resolve this?

Sounds to me like it's a mechanical failure inside the door, probably the power door lock actuator. The actuator may be bad or maybe some kind of linkage just came disconnected in there. Either way, you're gonna have to take the door panel off and dig into it...

Here's a new one...


Obviously replacement or repair will involve disassembling your door. Tread carefully.

Also, just an after thought, sometimes on this generation of Dodge there are "modules" that control things like door lock actuators and power liftgates, etc. It could be that the module that controls that particular door needs to be "flashed" by the dealer, meaning they hook up a computer and reprogram the module with updated software and poof, it works again. If it were me, I'd start taking apart the door and see what I could see, but I don't know how mechanically inclined you are.

I did some research and found that this has been known to happen a time or two. In order to replace the actuator, you need to take the door WAY apart. First thing you gotta do is remove the door glass, then the carrier plate (which is a big metal plate about the size of the door that sits behind the door panel), then once you get the carrier plate off you can remove the actuator from that and replace it. The actuator apparently is a non-serviceable item and must be completely replaced. So...STEP ONE...REMOVE THE DOOR GLASS (good Lord be careful).

See first picture:
1. Remove the upper trim molding.
2. Remove the door speaker.
NOTE: There are foam seals at either end that is held in place by the inner belt molding. Carefully remove the seals along with the inner belt molding.
3.Separate the belt molding from the door mounting flange from the back to the front.

See second picture:
4. Using the regulator, move the front door glass (1) up or down as required to access the two window regulator glass release tabs (2) through the access holes in the regulator rails.

See third picture:
NOTE: Place a protective covering over the outer belt molding to prevent grease transfer to the molding and glass.
5. Using a small round bladed tool (2) or equivalent, release the door glass (1) from the window regulator glass sliders (3).

See fourth picture:
6. Carefully rotate the door glass within the window opening and remove the glass from the door through the window opening.

Step two...remove the "carrier plate"...

See first picture
1. Remove the front door glass.

2. Open the service access door and disconnect the handle and key cylinder links (1, 2) from the latch, if equipped.

3. Remove the latch mounting fasteners (3).

See second picture
4. Remove the screw (1) and release the inner handle (2) from the door.

5. Disconnect the passive entry jumper harness connector (3), open the access door and place the end inside the door.

6. Disconnect the remaining harness connectors and position the harness aside.

See third picture
7. Locate and release the three retaining clips (1) by turning clockwise.

See fourth picture
8. Remove the perimeter screws (3) and separate the carrier plate (2) from the door.

9. Tip the regulator rails out of the door and remove the door latch (1) from the door opening with the carrier plate (2).

Step three - remove the door lock actuator/door latch assembly from the carrier plate...

See first picture
1. Remove the carrier plate.
2. Disconnect the electrical connector (1).

See second picture
3. Release the retaining clips (1) and separate the latch (2) from the presenter bracket.

See third picture
4. Disconnect the lock knob link (1) and inside handle cable (2).
5. Remove the latch (3).

So there you have it. Word is the dealer will change you about $300 or so to do this. If you have the dealer do it, by all means buy the part yourself on Amazon and have the dealer install it. Don't pay dealer prices for the part.

Overall it looks like a pain in the ass, but a reasonably inclined do-it-yourself mechanic could probably handle this pretty easily. Your call, but there's how ya do it!

Thanks. for the info. Seems pretty involved but I know a guy who has done an accuator before... Randomly, this morning it worked no problem so could even be faulty electrical...

Yep, with a Dodge you can never rule that out!