Torsion Bar Crank (Free Lift) DIY
#1
06-16-2009, 11:18 AM
Torsion Bar Crank (Free Lift) DIY
The torsion bar's job is to maintain downward pressure on the lower control arm. Since the upper control arm is held parallel to the lower one by the upper and lower balljoints, the whole front end steering assembly is held up by the torsion bar.
The torsion bar is splined on one end, and fits into the lower control arm. The other end has an anchor arm fits into the torsion key, which acts like a lever, twisting the torsion bar laterally and pushing the lower arm downward. The height of the lower arm is controlled by an this key, which pushes down on the bar, and twists the torsion bar. So in order to raise the vehicle, one need only turn the bolt which pushes on the anchor arm.
egin by finding the height of the front end, by measuring the distance from the center of the hub to the edge of the fender (shown in yellow). Measuring both sides, you may be surprised to find that they are not the same. This is attributable to wear in other parts of the frontend such as bushings, etc., as well as fatigue in the torsion bar itself.
After this distance is found, place a socket on the anchor arm bolt, and give each side several turns. It helps to have an assistant measure the distance, so you don't have to extricate yourself from under the truck everytime. You may also need to use some penetrating oil and a breaker bar on the bolt to break it free.
Once you have cranked each side to the level you want, drive the vehicle around the block, to let the suspension settle. If the measurements stay within spec, then you are finished. If not, simply turn the adjusting bolts until both sides are even.
Be aware that cranking your torsion bars may cause them to wear out prematurely, since they have added pressure on them. Also keep in mind that with increased pressure on the lower arm, upper articulation will be adversely affected, and your ride may be a little firmer.Overall, I have found these factors negligible, and more than compensated for by the increased ride height.
The last step is to take your truck in for an alignment. VERY IMPORTANT! Do not omit this step...
The torsion bar is splined on one end, and fits into the lower control arm. The other end has an anchor arm fits into the torsion key, which acts like a lever, twisting the torsion bar laterally and pushing the lower arm downward. The height of the lower arm is controlled by an this key, which pushes down on the bar, and twists the torsion bar. So in order to raise the vehicle, one need only turn the bolt which pushes on the anchor arm.
egin by finding the height of the front end, by measuring the distance from the center of the hub to the edge of the fender (shown in yellow). Measuring both sides, you may be surprised to find that they are not the same. This is attributable to wear in other parts of the frontend such as bushings, etc., as well as fatigue in the torsion bar itself.
After this distance is found, place a socket on the anchor arm bolt, and give each side several turns. It helps to have an assistant measure the distance, so you don't have to extricate yourself from under the truck everytime. You may also need to use some penetrating oil and a breaker bar on the bolt to break it free.
Once you have cranked each side to the level you want, drive the vehicle around the block, to let the suspension settle. If the measurements stay within spec, then you are finished. If not, simply turn the adjusting bolts until both sides are even.
Be aware that cranking your torsion bars may cause them to wear out prematurely, since they have added pressure on them. Also keep in mind that with increased pressure on the lower arm, upper articulation will be adversely affected, and your ride may be a little firmer.Overall, I have found these factors negligible, and more than compensated for by the increased ride height.
The last step is to take your truck in for an alignment. VERY IMPORTANT! Do not omit this step...
Last edited by HammerZ71; 06-16-2009 at 11:22 AM.