The 5.7 oil pump is in the same place but much easier to deal with then the 4.7, as the 4.7 is an over head cam engine. That means a timing nightmare when it comes to lining up the cam drive chains and tensioners, which is a pain in the ***. The 5.7 has a standard timing chain like older engines (LA series) due to it being a pushrod engine

 

Cool, thanks.

If you can get the screen cleaned, that should be enough. I don't think that it has run long enough to scar the pump too much.

 

thats what im hoping. with the way it hasnt ticked. just sounds like the pump is getting as much oil as it wants. its getting oil, but not the amount it wants. well anyways i found out today, well i had the service department look up the torque on the bolts, but he brought up how to drop the pan as if 1 of the mechanics were going to do it. that plate i refered to is nothing important, it called a structural dust cover. and its only purpose is to protect the trans as if i were to go mudding and hit rocks and that sort. so taking that off is no big deal, and that IS how i would drop the pan. the service tech from dodge that told me i need to drop the trans is a complete IDIOT! also my mechanic i talk to in the shop said it doesnt sound like i scarred the pump too bad and i should be able to clean out the screen and more so the pick up tube and it should be ok from there. i am desperatly hoping that i can clean the stuff and be done with this!! im hoping so damn bad right now.

 

Good luck, when are you going to start on it?

 

most likely saturday, if not, then sunday! as said before, im really hoping this helps. just want to say thanks to everyone!!!!

another question though.....would you keep running synthetic?(royal purple) or would you go with a conventional oil?

 

yikes about that pump location. i wonder how many of us have read this thread and gone out & changed our oil this week! did you end up buying the pump before all this new info? if you can, take some pics during the pan drop.

 

no actually. i was going to buy it last night and my mom was like we'll do it in the morning. so i got up and got on here and thank god for the boiler showing that diagram. i would been like ****. got the pump but i cant put it in. and you bet ill take pics of the inside!

 

mmstar, on your question about whether you should stay with the Royal Purple or just go with dead dinosaurs, my belief at this point would be both.

THe synthetic is pretty pricey, as you well know, compared to petroleum-based oil. I'd have to sya that if it were me, I'd go ahead & drop the pan & do the cleanup you have planned, then do the initial fill with some cheap oil & oil filter. If the problem has gone away after the initial startup & test drive, I'd go ahead & do an engine flush to get both the dead dino oil out & get any crud out that may gum up the works again, then put in the Royal Purple again along with a good quality filter.

Again, that's just my thoughts and what I would probably do in your position. I may be off in my thinking, and am interested to see what others might think about that.

Let us know how it goes when you tear into it, mmstar. By the way, you can forget about pulling a main bearing cap to check the wear on them while you're down there. The 4.7L does not have individual caps, but instead has a complete main web design that is actually one piece that has all the main caps as part of it. You can actually see the outside of it, as it's what your oil pan actually bolts to. the pan rails, main caps, and lower perimeter of the block is all one piece.

 

so if it works bring it to a shop to get an engine flush? my question is.....why dont i get an engine flush in the first place, then drop the pan to get all the stuff that came out of the engine. then put new oil in and see if it works? or should i do it the way you said?

 

Thats what i would do, flush first. This Rislone is good stuff, i have used it for years to treat older engines. It will disolve varnish and sludge, clean oil return galleys, free sticking mechanical parts(like lifters and valves) and maintain engine lubrication. give it a chance to clean then drop your pan if need be. If it brings oil pressure back, use a quart per oil change to keep the engine sludge down, make the first few oil changes at 1000 miles to get the best results. My local O'reilleys has it as does auto zone.

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