2005 5.7 will crank with bypass but wont start
#1
2005 5.7 will crank with bypass but wont start
When using the key to start the engine I can hear the starter relay clicking as well as feel that happening in the relay if I'm touching it so I think it is safe to say that the left pin that receives current from the 25 watt fuse is indeed receiving current.
When I bypass the starter relay, using the rear pin under the starter relay, the starter will crank. However, the truck doesn't start.
History: A few days back my 89 year old mother with dementia decided it was time to go home in the middle of the night and she went out to this truck. I awoke to the alarm going off, the headlights and horn. How she got this to go off is beyond me, the truck was unlocked, the key fob hasn't worked for years and not only that she didn't even have the fob. But none the less it was activated. I have however driven the truck a couple of times since until now.
I ran a scan using a Foxwell NT 624 Elite and it brought up the stuff listed below.
#1 PCM PO480 Low fan speed relay control
#2 TCM PO012 Battery was disconnected
#4 BCM P3B5D RKE program enable output short
#7 MIC/CCN F791E Vin previously stored, F791F Auto climate module (ACM) messages not received, F791 ignition run/start circuit rationality check.
#8 FCM F707A Fog lamp relay output circuit open, F707A Wiper park switch input performance
#11 F794C No communication with radio, F794c Channel 8 open
I did clear these codes but it didn't help start my truck any.
If I run a Control Modules Scan, select "Body" for the control module, then select #18 "VTS" or Vehicle Theft Security the scanner reads "No Communication. 1. Check scan tool connection. 2 Make sure the ignition is on. 3. Make sure the battery is charged and 4. Verify the vehicle is equipped with the system."
If anyone knows what I can do to get this on the road again I would be very appreciative!
When I bypass the starter relay, using the rear pin under the starter relay, the starter will crank. However, the truck doesn't start.
History: A few days back my 89 year old mother with dementia decided it was time to go home in the middle of the night and she went out to this truck. I awoke to the alarm going off, the headlights and horn. How she got this to go off is beyond me, the truck was unlocked, the key fob hasn't worked for years and not only that she didn't even have the fob. But none the less it was activated. I have however driven the truck a couple of times since until now.
I ran a scan using a Foxwell NT 624 Elite and it brought up the stuff listed below.
#1 PCM PO480 Low fan speed relay control
#2 TCM PO012 Battery was disconnected
#4 BCM P3B5D RKE program enable output short
#7 MIC/CCN F791E Vin previously stored, F791F Auto climate module (ACM) messages not received, F791 ignition run/start circuit rationality check.
#8 FCM F707A Fog lamp relay output circuit open, F707A Wiper park switch input performance
#11 F794C No communication with radio, F794c Channel 8 open
I did clear these codes but it didn't help start my truck any.
If I run a Control Modules Scan, select "Body" for the control module, then select #18 "VTS" or Vehicle Theft Security the scanner reads "No Communication. 1. Check scan tool connection. 2 Make sure the ignition is on. 3. Make sure the battery is charged and 4. Verify the vehicle is equipped with the system."
If anyone knows what I can do to get this on the road again I would be very appreciative!
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I wish my passenger door had a lock but they saved some money by omitting it! Mentioning "disconnecting the battery" reminded me of noticing that I left the Starter Relay out accidentally before the last time it started...I have it pulled again. I'll post the results later. Thank you!!
#6
So I went out and pulled both the Starter Relay and the A/C Relay about 2 hours ago now. I was swapping them before, got distracted, and left them both out for a spell. When I put them back in, the truck started. I didn't make the connection until I read your post above.
At first I just put in the Starter Relay and the truck would start. Then I put in the A/C Relay and it started right up. I'm not sure why they are both needed for the truck to start but they are. I have left it idling. I'll probably post again to let the forum know how this progresses. Likely, I'll turn it off in one hour and try to restart it immediately. If it does great, if not I'll pull the Relays. Reduce the time to an hour and hopefully it starts. I will continue repeating this with a shorter cycle until I don't have to.
Thanks again for jarring my memory there, you saved the day!
At first I just put in the Starter Relay and the truck would start. Then I put in the A/C Relay and it started right up. I'm not sure why they are both needed for the truck to start but they are. I have left it idling. I'll probably post again to let the forum know how this progresses. Likely, I'll turn it off in one hour and try to restart it immediately. If it does great, if not I'll pull the Relays. Reduce the time to an hour and hopefully it starts. I will continue repeating this with a shorter cycle until I don't have to.
Thanks again for jarring my memory there, you saved the day!
#7
This is not a security issue.
After driving for an hour and returning home I turned off my truck, tried re-starting it and it was completely dead. Dash, headlights ect. but the battery tested at 12.9 volts. I put di-electric grease on the terminals and on all the connections on the terminals. I'm not sure what is going on here.
After driving for an hour and returning home I turned off my truck, tried re-starting it and it was completely dead. Dash, headlights ect. but the battery tested at 12.9 volts. I put di-electric grease on the terminals and on all the connections on the terminals. I'm not sure what is going on here.
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I had the battery tested at Napa and it is in good working condition. I also swapped out the fuse box today with one that had been sitting around. The problem with that is if it was switched out before than there is a problem with it. But my thought was if it runs it's more than I have now. And it did. But what's strange to me is sometimes the truck will start several times in a row drive perfectly and then when I drive it and get home and turn it off and then go to restart it, it is completely dead with the exception of the anti theft light pulsating and sounding like a squeaky door hinge. This light goes off when the key is turned.
So I take off the battery cables for a couple of minutes, put them back on the terminals and it starts up. I always know when I am reconnecting the cables to the terminals if it is going to start because I will see and hear small sparks. I would have interpreted the volt gauge being high to be a sign of a bad battery but the battery is good. When the truck starts, it runs fine. I would have interpreted the high reading on the voltage gauge to be a sign of a bad battery but I don't think so. When I connect a multimeter to the battery while the truck is running it reads around 14.56. If this makes any sense I love to hear it! Thanks!!
So I take off the battery cables for a couple of minutes, put them back on the terminals and it starts up. I always know when I am reconnecting the cables to the terminals if it is going to start because I will see and hear small sparks. I would have interpreted the volt gauge being high to be a sign of a bad battery but the battery is good. When the truck starts, it runs fine. I would have interpreted the high reading on the voltage gauge to be a sign of a bad battery but I don't think so. When I connect a multimeter to the battery while the truck is running it reads around 14.56. If this makes any sense I love to hear it! Thanks!!
Last edited by Jimh8; 04-17-2024 at 06:15 PM.
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