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Lowered Trucks: tech and info....

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  #1351  
Old 07-02-2010, 06:04 PM
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sorry i have to give my sticky a useless bump where the eff is everyone....we need traffic.....
 
  #1352  
Old 07-03-2010, 10:06 AM
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im here.. so remember i said i wanna do the helper springs in the rear of my truck? anyone got any ideas for kits? where to go? what kit to get?
 
  #1353  
Old 07-03-2010, 01:59 PM
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I would use helper bags, more versatile than mounting an add-on spring IMO.
 
  #1354  
Old 07-03-2010, 02:45 PM
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yeah ken use helper bags....
 
  #1355  
Old 07-04-2010, 02:04 AM
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I just bought a 2006 dodge ram 1500 and i want to lower it. I wanna just get a 2" drop shackle and lossen the T bar bolts in the front but im not exactly sure on how to loosen the T bar bolts or where exactly they are located at. if u guys could help me out that would be really great.,..thanks
 
  #1356  
Old 07-04-2010, 09:57 AM
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my bad, i ment helper bags.. that was my original intention, just said the wrong thing. yeah bags... and i have another question. just like ^ said about the T bars, first.. does my year truck have them, and if it did, could i crank em down and elimintaed the camber at the same time?
 
  #1357  
Old 07-04-2010, 01:40 PM
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2wd trucks don't have T bars. Caster and camber angles are constantly changing with the travel of the suspension. When we are talking about setting the caster or camber we are basically talking about moving the correct static setting to a new ride hieght of the vehicle. The 2/4.5 spindle drop this is relatively easy. I made it even easier on mine by adding aftermaket adjusters. Cutting the coil springs makes the front suspension act as if the coils are compressed giving a more positive camber like you see on circle cars. Actual the race cars set both left and right sides to different sittings depending on the track. Road racing cars are generally set with the same camber on both sides. I wanted mine set as close to factory spec as possible unless a slight positive tweek will eliminate tire rub on hard compression. (bump). Caster is what you see on a bicycle to keep the wheel going straight. (axle line ahead of the suspension center line) When you make a turn and the steering wheel comes back to the straight ahead position was done by the caster. Too much caster and you have a lot of push and turning is physically lifting the suspension giving the vehicle a heavy feel. Too little and you will not have a secure feel and the vehicle is wandering all over the place. A good alignment shop when dealing with a modified suspension will take the time to first set everything to spec and then adjust it to drive with a good feel. Takes time and is seldom straight from the book. This costs extra money, these guys are golden in my book and are few and far between. It always comes to a compromise of some sort. The lifted guys have the same problems, but without the restricted suspension travel. Sorry for the lecture, just trying to paint a clear picture.

See how one side is slightly lifted. That is the caster causing that side to lift because the wheels are turned.

 
  #1358  
Old 07-04-2010, 08:31 PM
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I have a question I am sure has already been answered and if so I am sorry. I just bought McGaughys drop shackles and they should be in the mail, but I was wondering what size star bit I need to take off the stock shackles. The biggest on I have is a T-40 but it doesn't fit (too small). Also, any advise on when doing the shackles? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #1359  
Old 07-04-2010, 10:14 PM
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I'll check the size in the morning.
 
  #1360  
Old 07-04-2010, 10:27 PM
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its a t55 but just use vice grips...
 


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