YES, hence why you need 4 resistors total regardless of what type of HID kit you get. You could just do the Lowbeam side, but you will have Active codes dsotred in your PCM and it may or may not effect the circuit. I had NO reistors on my lows or my highs and my circuit never shut off, but some guys have had trouble. I would install the resistors regardless of you have highbeam bulbs or not.
Simply solder or connect the resisotrs to the outside wires and the other end of the resistor BOTh tie into the middle ground wire. This will prevent any Active codes from being stored(active codes won't necessarily illuminate the check engine light or cause any driveability issue but it will be shown when checked with a Starscan tool or other)

 

As Weedahoe already posted. Look at this pic.
Resistors get connected to power on one side and grounded on the other. The center wire is ground. The two outsides are power.

 

Exactly. it just loops back into the headlight wiring.

Do not replace the fuse with a bigger fuse. You are asking for potential problems. You need to find out why it is blowing fuses. Obviously something is wrong. Try replacing the fuse with the same size and unplugging one of the ballast and then turning them on. If it lights up then turn them off, unplug the one ballast and bulb that worked and plug in the other. Then turn them back on and see if it works of blows the fuse. This is how you can determine if it is a bad ballast that is shorted out internally and blowing the fuse.

Do that and report back

 

Get it outta there. No it's not safe. The wiring and circuit is only capable of supplying 15a MAX.
If you are blowing the fuse with them plugged in directly, you NEED a relay harness. The problem is that HID draws excessive amounts of current upon start-up. It's not until they are fully warmed up that they draw less current. Some kits draw more current than others, and apparently your kit draws more than the circuit is designed to supply.

Keep that 20a fuse in there and you'll likely melt the wiring and/or fry a component or two. Since it's popping the fuse, your headlamp switch will be the first to go if your wiring doesn't melt in the mean time???
IUnstall a relay harness and be safe.

 

No, youd on't need capacitors. You need to read this entire thread, especially the first page and first post!
You need resitors even with a relay harness.
Please read this entire thread and thne post back IF you have a problem AFTER the install.

 

Yeah thats the right harness but priced way to high and it is the right one IF you have xenon bulbs (just low beam) and not bixenon (high and low).

Check out ebay item 230487997028 for the same xenon harness for $9 shipped

Or look at ebay item 110637811137 for a bixenon harness. (NOTE) - the relay and harness pictured in this auction is not the right picture. But I just bought two of these from this guy and they are the right harness.

Bixenon harness's look like this with a bigger, wide, flat relay



Xenon harness's have a square PDT relay and look like this



Now, be CAREFUL of 9004 and 9007 harness's as they both use the same blue D shaped plug. Both have 3 pins.

9007's have the two outer pins as white and blue (high and low) and brown as the center (ground or common).

9004's are switched around.

So if you get a harness and yours are switched, you may need to swap the pins to make it match the 9007

You would normally tap the resistors into the HID harness and after the plug that goes into the OEM wiring. This is so if you ever take them off, the resistors come off with the HID harness so all you have to do is plug the OEM bulbs in and go as the OEM wiring would have been left untouched.

Look at my pics and you will see they are tapped on the HID harness. NOT the OEM wiring harness that came with the truck.

 

Yes they get very hot. They are "load" resistors. Why do you think those 50 watt resistors I have shown have heat sink fins on them? They are made to dissipate heat. Why do you think mine are shown with insulation on the wires?

You will not find a resistor to stay cool. We have mentioned many times they get hot and why

The 50 watt resistors have small holes in them to screw them to the frame.

How many times have we said to use the 50 watt resistors? Did you see them in my pictures?

You can try those but Ive never had luck. Other also havent had luck. I have 100% with resistors. They make PnP resistor kits of you can buy you own male and female 9007 (or whatever bulb base your truck is) and make you own for less.

With a relayed kit, there are a few connections. Main power comes from the battery to the relay contacts which power the ballast. This keeps the main power draw OFF your OEM wiring and PDC fuses. Then there are the 2 connectors from the HID harness that plug into you ballasts and bulbs. There are two grounds which one is by each ballast and usually one connection that goes to your drivers side OEM headlight plug.

Hope that helps

 

Thanks, Weed. Is there a difference in the bi-xenon relay harness and the xenon relay harness? I ordered the bi-xenon kit for the headlights.

 

Go back up and read post #123

No, HIDs will not cause your engine to stall. You have other issues and you drifting around corners in a 6k# truck and baja-ing isnt helping. The the red lightning bolt comes on you better pay attention or else you are about to find it a very costly issue to resolve.

 

Has anyone had a problem with a random flicker on their Hids? On my '08 I got a kit called Apex Cone, it's a hi/low kit. it works fine no warning lights or strobing. while i drive or just sitting still i get just a single flicker. i installed the gold looking resistors from ebay (Thanks Weed) but still get the same flicker randomly. I'm thinking that a connection somewhere isn't good but when i installed the kit i used electrical tape on all the connectors just for extra security. I have read all the post on this thread before i wrote this posting but haven't seen anything about this kind of a issue. Any help or thoughts would be great, thanks in advance.