'03 2WD 5.7 Suspension or Brake Issue???
#1
'03 2WD 5.7 Suspension or Brake Issue???
I'm not sure if this is a problem with the brakes or the suspension.
When slowing down there is a double clunk sound and it seems to come from the front drivers side. It doesnt happen everytime I slow down and I don't always have to be braking hard when it happens but braking hard does make it happen everytime.
I dont a feel anything shift in the suspension or feed back through the brake pedal when it happens.
Any ideas before I get into it this weekend?
When slowing down there is a double clunk sound and it seems to come from the front drivers side. It doesnt happen everytime I slow down and I don't always have to be braking hard when it happens but braking hard does make it happen everytime.
I dont a feel anything shift in the suspension or feed back through the brake pedal when it happens.
Any ideas before I get into it this weekend?
#2
#3
My clunk sound was a drivers side track rod outer end.
Look at my video here and check yours as a matter of urgency.
I'd also do as Weed suggested.
Go over everything until you can localize what the clunking is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hor2h...8bAUAAAAAAANAA
Look at my video here and check yours as a matter of urgency.
I'd also do as Weed suggested.
Go over everything until you can localize what the clunking is.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hor2h...8bAUAAAAAAANAA
#4
abarmy, nice video, but I'd like to make a suggestion....
You can't always go by backing thenut off slightly and counting the thread turns. Not all manufacturers create the same length tierod ends. So, installing a tierod end that is 8-9/16"(21.75cm) long end to center with the factory that's say 8-3/4"(22.23cm) end to center will cause your "counting threads" theory to be thrown out the window. (above lengths were picked randomly and are not the true measurements)
Your counting threads will be good enough to get you to the alignment shop 10/10 times, but only allow you to be correct on exact alignment maybe 1/10 times.
Here's a precise measurment that gets you almost a perfect alignment 8-9/10 times;
1.)Put a piece of tape at randow on the inner tierod end before the locking nut.
2.)Measure for the center of the BJ(backside plate) to the tape edge and record the measurement. Metric works best ofcourse and make sure there's no slop in the end of your tape measure.
3.) Install the new Teirod end to that same measurement.
4.) Done.
Thats a much more precise way to get it done without needing to get an alignment. Ofcourse any bind when turning, tracking when going down the road and you'll need an alignment. At that point, I'd assume replace the otherside as well.
You can't always go by backing thenut off slightly and counting the thread turns. Not all manufacturers create the same length tierod ends. So, installing a tierod end that is 8-9/16"(21.75cm) long end to center with the factory that's say 8-3/4"(22.23cm) end to center will cause your "counting threads" theory to be thrown out the window. (above lengths were picked randomly and are not the true measurements)
Your counting threads will be good enough to get you to the alignment shop 10/10 times, but only allow you to be correct on exact alignment maybe 1/10 times.
Here's a precise measurment that gets you almost a perfect alignment 8-9/10 times;
1.)Put a piece of tape at randow on the inner tierod end before the locking nut.
2.)Measure for the center of the BJ(backside plate) to the tape edge and record the measurement. Metric works best ofcourse and make sure there's no slop in the end of your tape measure.
3.) Install the new Teirod end to that same measurement.
4.) Done.
Thats a much more precise way to get it done without needing to get an alignment. Ofcourse any bind when turning, tracking when going down the road and you'll need an alignment. At that point, I'd assume replace the otherside as well.
Last edited by dirtydog; 03-03-2012 at 08:28 AM.