rear axle bearing
#1
#2
I would recommend doing both sides. Not because they need to be done in pairs, but because you need to drain $50 of diff fluid to change a $5 seal, I usually just do both so I don't have to do the other one right away. Timewise it really doesn't take much longer either to do both instead of just one.
Axle seals often leak when your vent line is plugged, with no place to vent from the seal is the weakest point so it just blows them out. For that reason, while you are under there locate the rear axle vent line, I have no clue what you have for a truck, but usually it coming out of the T-Block for the brake lines (where the rubber hose goes to the axle and Tee's to both sides of the axle). It is the bolt that holds the T-Block to the axle, remove it, the hose, and the breather cap and check for any blockages. Clean it all up and reinstall. If you don't do this and it is plugged, you're just going to blow another axle seal right away.
Have you heard any bearing noises coming from the back while driving? That would be your first sign they are bad. The rear axle bearings aren't a common thing to fail often, so good chance they are still fine. Once you have it apart check the bearing for any roughness when turning it. It should turn smoothly with no excessive play between the inner and outer races.
If you do need to change it, you'll need a rear axle bearing puller, which you can probably rent at most auto parts stores. When pressing it back in, I often just use a socket, similar to how you'd do the seal, and just hammer it in evenly. DO NOT HIT ON THE INNER RACE! Make sure your socket only engages the outer race, you don't want to be hammering on the ball bearings or the inner race as it can damage the bearing.
Good luck, it is a pretty easy job, just take your time.
Axle seals often leak when your vent line is plugged, with no place to vent from the seal is the weakest point so it just blows them out. For that reason, while you are under there locate the rear axle vent line, I have no clue what you have for a truck, but usually it coming out of the T-Block for the brake lines (where the rubber hose goes to the axle and Tee's to both sides of the axle). It is the bolt that holds the T-Block to the axle, remove it, the hose, and the breather cap and check for any blockages. Clean it all up and reinstall. If you don't do this and it is plugged, you're just going to blow another axle seal right away.
Have you heard any bearing noises coming from the back while driving? That would be your first sign they are bad. The rear axle bearings aren't a common thing to fail often, so good chance they are still fine. Once you have it apart check the bearing for any roughness when turning it. It should turn smoothly with no excessive play between the inner and outer races.
If you do need to change it, you'll need a rear axle bearing puller, which you can probably rent at most auto parts stores. When pressing it back in, I often just use a socket, similar to how you'd do the seal, and just hammer it in evenly. DO NOT HIT ON THE INNER RACE! Make sure your socket only engages the outer race, you don't want to be hammering on the ball bearings or the inner race as it can damage the bearing.
Good luck, it is a pretty easy job, just take your time.
#3
#4
Well I got an update. So I dug into everything and had a major issue trying to remove my c clip. I tried pushing on my axle shaft. I tried hitting it with a hammer. The shaft wouldn't come in far enough to release the c clip, I did remove the difference pin like supposed to before attempting it. Has anyone ran into this issue, really need the help.
#5
#6
I've never had an issue pushing the axle in. Check on the outside of the axle shaft, the part that would have to slide into the seal, is there a buildup on the axle shaft from the leaking seal? I would think the hammer would do it, but maybe try cleaning off any buildup and see if that works.
Is this on both sides or just one side?
Is this on both sides or just one side?