No power to half the fuse box
 

Help! I have a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500. I was driving down the street and truck stalled and will not start. Luckily I was close enough to my house to be able to push it back. Anyway, I have fuel pressure, but no spark. When I was checking fuses with a light meter, I realized that about 1/2 the fuses had no power. Basically, #28-38 and #50. What could possibly cause this or any advice on what to check?

do a search here... the smart fuse box has issues with corrosion .... replace or find the thread and repair.. is you can...

if you replace.. the dealer needs to program.... again a search here will get you answers.. and this is a common problem...2002 to 2006 or 7.

best of luck

Might sound stupid but check the connections under the fuse box. I think there is a couple of connections that plug in. I had one of mine come loose (don't know why). I pushed it back up and everything worked again. Can't hurt to check that first.

Thanks Guys...Tomorrow night, I will try pulling the fuse box off and checking for corrosion and/or bad connections. I hope it is something simple. Are there any tricks I need to know to get the fuse box off?

There is a how-to write up on here somewhere... I can't seem to find it right now, but if you search around a bit it should come up.

Also, sometimes fuses only receive power with the key in the "run" position, if the truck is off they might not get any power.

Check for any DTCs and also check for C-Codes... the methods for pulling both codes is in the link in my signature.

Izero, you were correct and I feel like an idiot. With the key in the on position, all fuses are working correctly. Which means, back to the drawing board as to figuring out what is wrong.


Here is the background on my truck. It is a 2005 Dodge Ram 1500, 4.7 l engine, appx 143000. Bought from dealer in February.


In June, while pulling my pontoon boat, the truck over-heated. I changed out the water pump and thermostat. It ran well until August, when it once again over-heated while pulling the boat. This time I took it to the shop where my mechanic informed me the heads were bad. I ended up buying 2 new remanufactured heads after the machine shop said they couldn't mill them properly.


I got the truck back together and it started right up, however, it was idling fast in park and was throwing a P0016 code - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 1 Sensor A). I ran the truck like that until last week when it stalled going down the road. I haven't gotten it to start since. I have put in new camshaft and crankshaft sensors but still no start. I checked fuel pressure, which is ok. Fuel pump seems to kick on. I don't see spark on the #1 cylinder...not sure I am going it right..., but do get an occasional backfire (which sounds more like it is coming from the passenger side manifold than the exhaust pipe.)


The only code that is showing now using the key trick is P0113 Intake Air Temperature Circuit High Input.


Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?

Replace the Intake Air temperature sensor, that is likely what was helping cause your high idle problem.

Next thing you should do is check the service manual and make sure you followed their procedures exactly as they are written for putting the new Crank Position Sensor in.

If you don't see Spark on Cylinder #1 a few things can be happening....

1) Bad Coil on that cylinder

2) Engine is blocking ignition b/c it see's a bigger problem present

3) Pulling timing severely due to PCM seeing EXTREMELY high Intake Air Temperatures

The rest involve severe internal component damage and/or valve/valve spring problems, which would be confirmed by doing compression and leak down tests.

I'm more leaning towards the wrong Crank Position Sensor being installed or it not being installed properly being the issue.... If you can, compare the two of them side by side and see if there are any differences (hopefully you still have the old one).

I think that there are two different styles for the 4.7L's depending on the MFG date, as I recall reading about a similar problem a while back.

Lets start with the Crank Position Sensor and work our way down the list from there.

I will put in a new intake air sensor tonight. Yes, I do have the old crankshaft sensor so I will look at it to make sure they match. I forgot to mention in last post that I am not getting any C Codes.

That's a good thing. Let us know what happens with the Crank Position Sensor.

Hi, I didn't have time to replace the air intake sensor, but I did remove the crankshaft sensor and compare it to the old one. To me, they look identical. I attached a picture. Is there more to installing it than pulling the old one out and sticking the new one in?


One possibly significant issue I found while looking in the engine is the EGR valve and solenoid assembly is extremely loose. I can easily move it by hand. The tube that goes from the EGR valve to the intake manifold is also movable and is definitely not making a sealed connection to the intake manifold. Could this be my problem?