Crank, no start... results of troubleshooting dont add up
#1
Crank, no start... results of troubleshooting dont add up
I have a 2003 dodge ram 1500 5.9L. 190K. Was driving last week, stopped at a friends home, 30 minutes later left and got about a 100 yards and the truck stalled out. When it stalled, I was going 30mph on flat ground and maintaining speed, not accelerating or slowing down. It did not die out like it was running out of gas but was very sudden, all lights stayed on and was able to coast to a side street. There was no bangs, shudders, shaking, any other identifiable action, just realized the dash dimmed a bit and accelerator was no longer responding. Gas tank was half fool with the same gas from the same station I have used for 4 years. When you turn the key over without cranking, you can hear the fuel pump engage, and checking the fuel rail there is enough pressure to push gas out a good distance. Used a tire pressure checker on the fuel rail, desperate times, desperate measures, and it showed 45 psi. My brother has a flat bed so he came and loaded me up and brought it to the drive way where it is sitting now. I have since completed the following troubleshooting.
The VIN was confirmed at the dealer when I made spare keys a year ago that it does not have a security system stock or need a programmable key. No aftermarket security system in this vehicle.
In addition to these main steps, I have checked the fuses and relays. I have the battery on a charger and at each trouble shooting step have confirmed battery is fully charged. I have checked the main visible grounds, next to the battery and on passenger side of firewall, and they are not corroded and are connected. Checked the connections on the PCM and everything is plugged in tight at the 3 connectors. There is no knocking noise or abnormal noises when cranking over from the motor.
Based on all the troubleshooting I feel I have tested and ruled out the following: ASD relay, distributor, ignition coil, crank sensor since I am getting spark and movement in the tach when cranking, battery, PCM for spark since I am getting power from the ASD to the PCM to the coil wires to plugs, the valves since I am getting compression and it is holding the compression after it is built. Timing chain since crank/compression. The fuel pump based on prime and fuel line pressure. The fuel injectors since pulse, constant and ground and spraying when fuel rail is pulled and cranked.
I am at a loss and hoping someone has any suggestions on what more I can be testing. Thank you in advance and please know I will do my best to provided accurate and thorough answers if you ask in hopes it can get to a resolution.
- No check engine light staying on but plugged in the code reader and no codes are listed. Check engine light does turn on when key is turned over and appearing to function correctly.
- Checked spark at ignition, distributor, and a plug. Strong spark all the way around. We had a new cap and rotor and that has since been installed for the hell of it.
- Checked that fuel pump is functioning, getting fuel to the fuel rails, great pressure.
- Fuel Injectors are testing electrically as key is turned over, and when cranking. All injectors are electronically testing correctly. This is testing both the positive feed and ground feed, and pulse when cranking.
- Pulled fuel rails off and confirmed they are spraying when cranking over.
- Checked compression and maintaining 150 across the board.
- Separated the exhaust above the catalytic convertor and confirmed air is pushing out strong.
The VIN was confirmed at the dealer when I made spare keys a year ago that it does not have a security system stock or need a programmable key. No aftermarket security system in this vehicle.
In addition to these main steps, I have checked the fuses and relays. I have the battery on a charger and at each trouble shooting step have confirmed battery is fully charged. I have checked the main visible grounds, next to the battery and on passenger side of firewall, and they are not corroded and are connected. Checked the connections on the PCM and everything is plugged in tight at the 3 connectors. There is no knocking noise or abnormal noises when cranking over from the motor.
Based on all the troubleshooting I feel I have tested and ruled out the following: ASD relay, distributor, ignition coil, crank sensor since I am getting spark and movement in the tach when cranking, battery, PCM for spark since I am getting power from the ASD to the PCM to the coil wires to plugs, the valves since I am getting compression and it is holding the compression after it is built. Timing chain since crank/compression. The fuel pump based on prime and fuel line pressure. The fuel injectors since pulse, constant and ground and spraying when fuel rail is pulled and cranked.
I am at a loss and hoping someone has any suggestions on what more I can be testing. Thank you in advance and please know I will do my best to provided accurate and thorough answers if you ask in hopes it can get to a resolution.
Last edited by mostlydo; 02-24-2018 at 08:12 PM.
#4
#5
Hi Hey You, throughout troubleshooting I have been pulling the plugs after cranking during those troubleshooting steps that have kept the fuel relay plugged in. The plugs have not been soaked but do keep the aroma of ether. The ECM disables the fuel injectors after 3 seconds of cranking if the motor has not started as a safety feature to reduce flooding. This often will not result is soaking wet plugs but "wet" plugs.
During my trouble shooting, I had also suspected that I had a fuel injector stuck open which was causing ether to pool in the plug but in pulling the fuel rails and testing the spray on crank, there is not a injector staying open.
What your thoughts? Thanks!
During my trouble shooting, I had also suspected that I had a fuel injector stuck open which was causing ether to pool in the plug but in pulling the fuel rails and testing the spray on crank, there is not a injector staying open.
What your thoughts? Thanks!
#7
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#8
Hi 66three83, Thanks for your thought. When cranking the motor is not free spinning, or making any noises that would identify a broken timing chain. When cranking the RPM gauge is moving showing crank based on the motor turning which would confirm the timing chain is not broken. Confirmed also with compression check and creating compression that valves are moving which would be create by the timing chain, as well as removing the exhaust above the cat and having air flow that motor is cranking from the timing chain. I will be checking the timing today to determine if timing is off. In my experience with a failure of the timing chain, there would not be movement at the tach, the motor would crank very fast as if no resistance, and a compression test would show next to no compression if any. I do not have a great deal of experience with the timing belt so any feedback or tips on my troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated.
#9
Hi 66three83, your new post came through as I was writing a response. Thanks for confirming the question. It was suggested I checked timing as well by another forum. There is a blizzard where I am at and I am waiting for it to calm down a bit outside so that I can get the timing light on it and see the results. I will follow up with the timing results. Thanks!