Lower ball joint on 05 4x2
 

I need to replaced both lower ball joints but the question I have to ask is? That the lower joint have rivets in them. Do I need to remove the rivets and replace the whole lower joint or does it come out with a press? So far only seen press ins. Please advise.

I've been through this recently with my truck. It will go faster and easier if you replace the entire lower control arm since the bushings are probably worn, not to mention the rivets have to be chiseled off. Also, the insulator atop the spring is probably worn. Check the listings on Rock Auto. And, honestly, if you're replacing the lowers you should go ahead and redo the uppers. The kicker is you have to ensure the control arms have been pre-loaded before torquing the bolts to their final values, after which the truck will need an alignment.

Yes, this will cost money, but it will save you a lot in the long run.

Thanks Gary. Checking on prices for the lower. Now I can't use more tools to tear up thinks. This ]s a great forum.

No problem. In the grand scheme of things, most people cut corners or ignore replacing certain parts they consider "not a big deal" under the guise of saving money. In the long run (and sometimes the short run), that actually costs even more.

When I set out to replace the ball joints on my truck, which has press-in style, I thought it would be a breeze. It turns out Dodge and Jeep use taller ball joints, so the ball join press from the local parts stores won't work. Since I don't have a shop press, and local shops were quoting me around $40/side, I realized it would be cheaper to replace the entire lower and upper arms. Add the fact that if the ball joints need replacing then the bushings should probably be addressed as well (see where I'm going). Once the lower arm is removed, and the spring drops, note the condition of the insulator. With my truck, one insulator was relatively flat while the other was worn through. They're cheap, and replacing them will result in a better ride and better performance of parts.

The repair manual details using a spring compressor to removing the lower control arm. I place the vehicle on jack stands and used a smaller jack to support the arm, remove the spindle and the shock, and then slowly lower the arm to relieve tension. After that, pull the spring and remove the bolts but make note of where the camber adjusters are set. Reinstallation is the opposite of removal, just go slow.

If you're going to keep the truck and are able to do your own work, keep the old parts and buy replacement joints and bushings when you have time and money. Then, you can rebuild the old arms and have them on stand-by for the next replacement interval. I forgot to mention that while you're in there the inner tie-rods may need to be addressed as well. The ones for my truck were very loose and, just like the other parts, might as well address them while you're in there. The real trick is working in the confined space to properly preload the bolts for the control arms as well as addressing the alignment to work well enough to get the vehicle to a shop.

For the riveted lower ball joint replacement there are two options, as already mentioned.

1) Drill out the ends of the rivets to weaken them. Then beat the heads in with a chisel. Finally pound them out. Install the new joints with bolts. This can be time consuming and get frustrating as the angle of the drill or swing angle for the chisel can get awkward

2) Replace the entire lower control arm, which includes the ball joint and bushings already installed in the replacement part. This can be equally as frustrating and much more time consuming. Reason being often the two control arm bolts are rusted solid into the bushing sleeves, welded in there. Requiring you to take a torch to the underside of the truck to cut bolts off or to spend alot of time and drill bits drilling lengthwise along those bolts to weaken them enough to enable to get them out.

Before you make your decision, you should first check if those control arm bolts through the bushings will move and remove for you. Put the front of the truck on jacks. Get a can of Kroil and some wrenches. Crawl under the truck. Mark the alignment plate washers with a marker so you put it back exact. Go ahead and try to move those bolts. You want to see the bolt able to turn a full 360 in the bushing without too much effort once the nut has been slacked off. If you can get all 4 of them to turn full around, then they will be removable and yes then go ahead and replace the lower control arm. If any single one or more of them is seized, or only turns 20 degrees, trust me you would be better off to tackle just the rivets.

^^ FaceDeAce makes a good point. I forget some of you guys live in corrosive environments. I would still lean toward replacing the entire arm anyway because worn bushings will accelerate wear of the other components. I always use Anti-Seize at reassembly and adjust the torque value for the fasteners +10%.

I live in Ohio and I don't drive the truck every day. What do you mean by (loaded) on the ball joints? Face de Ace: what do you mean by marking the washer? Is that on the control arm where it bolts on? And what about the coil location when I reinstall, is there a correct place for it to sit?

Look at the pictures of the lower control arm. You can see there's an indentation for placing the coil spring. It's easy to see when relieving the tension.

The camber bolts look similar to this:
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...71e8eebd85.jpg

They're marked before removal so the camber can be reasonably restored when the arm is replaced; otherwise, driving will be very tricky. Mine was so far off I could hear the wheels squealing. If I turned too much in any given direction, the truck would jerk that way rather than smoothing moving.

More cost effective to remove LBJ
 

How much do you weigh? ;)