Exhaust Manifold Bolt Stripped
Hello everyone,
After a few weeks I finally finished putting my exhaust manifolds back on my 2007 Ram 2500 Hemi and it all went fairly well but the last bolt... I torqued all of them to 18 ft/lbs including the 9th bolt on the passenger side. (shown with the red arrow below)https://imgur.com/a/K3UAipf https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...3236267ed2.png I didn't pay attention before tightening it and I used one of the short bolts, like the ones for used for 1,2,3 &4. It must have been only a couple of threads in the head and it stripped them when I tried to torque it. https://www.ramforumz.com/images/smilies/SHOCKED.gifI can't believe this, especially since I was checking my torque wrench over and over while I was doing it, trying to avoid exactly this from happening ... Given that his bolt is not part of the sequence, is it actually needed? I really don't want to pull the head to get the thread fixed ... Also, why does Dorman send 5 short and 4 long bolts when I actually need 5 long ones and 4 short ones? :/ |
Can you put a longer bolt in and grab the remaining threads close to the bottom of the hole ? I would try that and if not drive it to see what happens. Only other choice is...heli coil if possible or pull head.
|
I fired her up this afternoon and I definitely have a tapping noise coming from the front at the passenger side. So I would say that bolt is definitely needed...
I played with the bolt a little bit and I was able to get one of the longer bolts in :) It goes in and out relatively smooth so I think its grabbing the lower threads. But doesn't sit in there very tight, I can wiggle it a little bit, not much but its not in there super tight. From what I've counted, based on how far the short bolt went in, I probably stripped about 4 to 5 threads while the longer bolt goes in about 13 threads. I think my best option at this point is to put a stud in there, that has threads all the way to the tip, so it can grab as many threads as possible. Given the location of the bolt/stud, I'm also thinking about putting some high temp JB weld in the hole before I put the stud in. Any opinions on that? |
Try the stud first, (no jb weld). That should actually work fairly well. (don't forget the anti-seize on the threads for the nut.)
|
Okay for anybody who made the same stupid mistake as I did:
- the short doorman bolt went in and stripped about 4-5 threads - the long doorman bolt/stud goes in about 13 threads, minus the 5 threads that stripped, I would have had about 8 threads with that bolt - the stud went in about 18-19 threads, minus the 5 threads that stripped, I now have 13 threads again and the rod sits in there nice and snug :) Also, I managed to take a picture of the threads inside, which are actually not cut all the way to the bottom of them hole. So getting a bot tap and cutting them all the way down would have also been an option, but I didn't want to take everything apart again ... I went ahead and put the rod in, tightened everything and to more tapping :) I guess I will be able to tell, if it holds up, after it has gone through a couple of heat/cool cycles. Thanks for the input! |
Good job. Thanks for posting an update!
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:50 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands