Something is screwy.

Manifold vacuum should be closer to 20 at idle...... start looking around for vacuum leaks.

 

I did do a good visual and hand grabs of the vacuum hoses today. To be honest Im not sure where all of them reside and not sure if stuff off the EVAP
can could cause this problem. I didnt see any visible cracks and feeling behind the engine blind it felt like they were still connected.

Is there a better or more scientific way to do this? Earlier in the day I was shooting some carb cleaner at the lines and manifold but idle didnt change.

So if the MAP sensor was bad would it even show the 10 inHg ?

I do have a spare TPS and MAP but Im not too convinced this is my issue. I agree its more likely a vacuum leak.

Would the IAC be something I should be looking into. How would water destroy these parts? Would it have shorted them out when the connectors got wet?

It seems like a long shot as when I took apart the connectors they all seemed very dry and water tight. I even looked down a few spark plug tubes and they were dry as well.

 

In all reality, none of those parts should be harmed by taking a bath...... They should all be able to tolerate that kind of behavior. (it IS a truck, after all.....)

Smoke test would likely show you the leak..... provided there is one. (and I am assuming that as well.)

Map has many failure modes, that won't necessarily point directly at the map....... you could try swapping it out, but, I wouldn't expect that to be the issue either.

 

So I swapped the TPS - no change (which was no surprise)
Went to swap MAP and the stupid T15 torx stripped. I had no problems with the T25's from the TPS.
I even had a low profile ratchet & socket so the bit fit right in head on no angles and its mounted in PLASTIC!!. Even cleaned up everything first like when removing those stupid end links with the hex hold downs that strip out all the time.
So I thought about getting out my dremel and cutting a slot for a screwdriver but I am at my wits end looking at hoses for the last two days and dont feel this part is bad either.
Any chance the manifold gasket could fail due to water?
I sprayed it down with carb cleaner but who knows as it bothers me to do that. I did it on a cold engine start with my fire extinguisher handy but maybe my apprehension of a fire made me a bit too fast trying to locate a vacuum leak there. I still feel that the force of the water had to dislodge or rip something off the truck that I cant see,
I couldnt even get the code to come back after I erased them.
Well I gave up end of day and drove it to the dealer. Will let you know what they say. My fear there is it will be a stupid hose but the will say my PCM is bad!!!
So frustrating!

 

Dodge just called they didnt find any vacuum leaks and think its my IAC valve. They can replace that and clean my throttle body for $400

I asked them what the likelihood that this will fix the issue. They only would say that this would fix my IAC as they feel its broken - "its a starting point" (that scared me!).

I asked what they felt about this part in relation to hitting the puddle and they said it was just a coincidence.

Any thoughts?

 

Ouch. That ain't cheap. How much if you replace the IAC yourself??? (you would want a genuine mopar IAC though.....) And how much will they charge you just to come get it? Might work out to simply be easier to let them give it a shot. See what happens.

 

looks like mopar part is $70 - aftermarket standard motor products is $40
im guessing diagnosis is min of $125

im surprised this part just cant be removed & cleaned as well as TB

I really dont think this is the issue, Im sure they could tell I messed around with the TBS & MAP and figured this
is a likely culprit as well, especially since they gave no guarantee and said "its a starting point"

The throttle body really didnt look that dirty even when I opened the butterfly and looked in. Obviously I couldnt see into the IAC.
I should have pulled it off the truck when I mentioned it in my post. ah hindsight! Plus its only 1 bolt.

 

I like to stick with real mopar parts for critical sensors/actuators, had bad experiences with aftermarket versions.....

Dealerships don't 'clean' parts, and reinstall them, they replace them. Not always necessary, but, I understand their reasoning. Of course, they have a much higher chance of getting a 'good' part out of the box.... The same can't be said for the aftermarket.....

 

I do agree OEM parts are best.

My whole problem with the IAC valve is that I thought if it was going bad or went bad my truck would be idling much lower than normal
and in danger of stalling out and possibly having a hard time starting. Not the high RPMs I am seeing. Plus I think I would have seen the derogation over time not instantly after I went through a huge puddle
which the dealership is saying the puddle has nothing to do with my high idle. The truck was running like a top up until the puddle - No quirks at all - all normal - and still starts right up. Just feels like accelerator is stuck or stuck in cruise control.

I am really leaning towards picking up the truck in the morning and trying to clean the IAC valve first. If that doesnt work then Id replace it.

I have a feeling if I pay them $400 for this then another $400 will be coming right behind that if this doesnt work. Wouldnt give me a guarantee as he is stating part is bad but setting the tone that others might be bad as well.

 

Dealer should have the ability to command the IAC to specific positions, and control idle manually...... Wonder if they tried that......

IAC can have quite a few failure modes.... usually though, if the PCM can't use it to control idle, it will set a code.