how to install brake pads and rotors
#1
01-24-2007, 05:30 PM
how to install brake pads and rotors
I need help installing a new brake rotors on the front side and new pads on the front and back of my truck.
I got an estimate on how much it was going to cost me and they told me that it was going to cost around 500 dollars. I dont have that much money to pay for it. I need help...please if you guys can help me. it will be great.
I got an estimate on how much it was going to cost me and they told me that it was going to cost around 500 dollars. I dont have that much money to pay for it. I need help...please if you guys can help me. it will be great.
#2
01-24-2007, 05:55 PM
Admin formally known as 94rt10ohio
RE: how to install brake pads and rotors
Well you could do it yourself for around $100.
But, have you done other mechanical work before and do you have the proper tools? If not I am not sure I would recommend it, unless you have some friends to help along with their tools. Using the wrong tools or small crappy tools could result on a bigger mess. Also, with something like this a Chilton book is perfect, $15.
But, have you done other mechanical work before and do you have the proper tools? If not I am not sure I would recommend it, unless you have some friends to help along with their tools. Using the wrong tools or small crappy tools could result on a bigger mess. Also, with something like this a Chilton book is perfect, $15.
#3
01-24-2007, 10:31 PM
RE: how to install brake pads and rotors
AUTOZONE, DAPS, O'RILEYor NAPA will loan you the tools.....go to the Library and get the Chilton Guide, or if you have the service CD you can see exactly how to do it. Or even better if your near an Air Force Base and have a friend in the militaryyou can always use the (Hobby Shop) Auto Skills Shop, they offer FREE guidance and you have all the tools and a lift!
#4
01-24-2007, 11:05 PM
RE: how to install brake pads and rotors
The only tools you will need are.
A jack, also jack stands to be safe. Tools to remove the tire. Dodge gave you those. You will need the tools to remove the caliber and a c-clamp or caliber compresser. I am sure someone here can tell you the exact size bolt on the back side. All cars/trucks are different. I have not changed my brakes on the Ram yet (I only have 2000 miles) but I have changed them on my Avenger many times, also changed them on many other Make/Models.
Once you get the tire off you will see the caliber connected to the suspension arm. Remove the bolts and the caliber will just slide off. Be sure to have something to hang the caliber with. A piece of coat hanger will work, you just do not want to let it hang by the brake line and cause damage. Also do not twist the caliber too much that will also damage the line.
Once you remove the caliber you can pop the old pads out. Once out clean the parts with some brake cleaner. Since this is your first time take note of how the pads are in the caliber. You will be reinstalling the same way. Normally this is easy but some can be put in wrong and cause problems. Depending on the pads you bought they may come with some backing plates that go on the new pads but may not. If your old pads have the thin tin like plates on the back pull them off if your new ones do not have them.
You need a C-clamp or a caliber compressor. A C-clamp works fine but you need to inspect the caliber boots and be sure when you compress them you do not crimp the rubber boot. Doing this will cause a brake fluid leak. To compress just use something that can go across the round open end of the caliber. You will just slowly tighten the clamp and it will move back into the caliber body. You can put the other end of the clamp on the back side of the caliber.
If you need to change the rotors do this now. You can just pull them off and they go back on just as easy.
Now you have the caliber clean and compressed it is time to install the new pads. In the box of the pads is sometimes a grease to help cut down on squeak but some also have those thin plates that go on the back of the pads. Follow the instructions of the pads when applying the lube or just ask the parts store tech when you buy the pads. Now put the pads back in the caliber. Once they are in correct and the caliber is compressed correctly you will be able to slide the caliber back into place sandwiching the rotor between the pads then bolting the caliber back in place.
Repeat this on all the wheels as needed and if you do not replace the rotor then you have no need to remove it unless it is grooved real badly and if it is you should have it "Turned" or also called resurfaced. You can have this done at a lot of places but remember you will need another way to get them to the shop since you can't drive with out them.
Once all wheels are done you should pump your breaks up and check your break fluid. It looks low carefully remove the cap, there could be a little pressure in the reservoir. Some people recommend to remove the cap before you compress the calibers and if you know that someone added fluid to the system because it looked a little low you could have an over flow because you are pushing the fluid back from the caliber into the system. Keep this in mind since brake fluid can remove paint and is flammable.
After you check all of that you will need to need to take a drive and be sure you are careful at first. Your new brakes are not at their best stopping power yet. There is a small break in that needs to happen, but you can speed this up. Go to a remote road where you know it is safe and have room to do this. You just need to get up to about 20-30mph and brake hard. Do this 2-3 times and you should be good.
I think that is everything, as long as it feels right and there are no leaks you are good. With these new systems you do not have to bleed the system unless you know you got air in them.
Hope that helps
A jack, also jack stands to be safe. Tools to remove the tire. Dodge gave you those. You will need the tools to remove the caliber and a c-clamp or caliber compresser. I am sure someone here can tell you the exact size bolt on the back side. All cars/trucks are different. I have not changed my brakes on the Ram yet (I only have 2000 miles) but I have changed them on my Avenger many times, also changed them on many other Make/Models.
Once you get the tire off you will see the caliber connected to the suspension arm. Remove the bolts and the caliber will just slide off. Be sure to have something to hang the caliber with. A piece of coat hanger will work, you just do not want to let it hang by the brake line and cause damage. Also do not twist the caliber too much that will also damage the line.
Once you remove the caliber you can pop the old pads out. Once out clean the parts with some brake cleaner. Since this is your first time take note of how the pads are in the caliber. You will be reinstalling the same way. Normally this is easy but some can be put in wrong and cause problems. Depending on the pads you bought they may come with some backing plates that go on the new pads but may not. If your old pads have the thin tin like plates on the back pull them off if your new ones do not have them.
You need a C-clamp or a caliber compressor. A C-clamp works fine but you need to inspect the caliber boots and be sure when you compress them you do not crimp the rubber boot. Doing this will cause a brake fluid leak. To compress just use something that can go across the round open end of the caliber. You will just slowly tighten the clamp and it will move back into the caliber body. You can put the other end of the clamp on the back side of the caliber.
If you need to change the rotors do this now. You can just pull them off and they go back on just as easy.
Now you have the caliber clean and compressed it is time to install the new pads. In the box of the pads is sometimes a grease to help cut down on squeak but some also have those thin plates that go on the back of the pads. Follow the instructions of the pads when applying the lube or just ask the parts store tech when you buy the pads. Now put the pads back in the caliber. Once they are in correct and the caliber is compressed correctly you will be able to slide the caliber back into place sandwiching the rotor between the pads then bolting the caliber back in place.
Repeat this on all the wheels as needed and if you do not replace the rotor then you have no need to remove it unless it is grooved real badly and if it is you should have it "Turned" or also called resurfaced. You can have this done at a lot of places but remember you will need another way to get them to the shop since you can't drive with out them.
Once all wheels are done you should pump your breaks up and check your break fluid. It looks low carefully remove the cap, there could be a little pressure in the reservoir. Some people recommend to remove the cap before you compress the calibers and if you know that someone added fluid to the system because it looked a little low you could have an over flow because you are pushing the fluid back from the caliber into the system. Keep this in mind since brake fluid can remove paint and is flammable.
After you check all of that you will need to need to take a drive and be sure you are careful at first. Your new brakes are not at their best stopping power yet. There is a small break in that needs to happen, but you can speed this up. Go to a remote road where you know it is safe and have room to do this. You just need to get up to about 20-30mph and brake hard. Do this 2-3 times and you should be good.
I think that is everything, as long as it feels right and there are no leaks you are good. With these new systems you do not have to bleed the system unless you know you got air in them.
Hope that helps