Replacing the Cam project
#1
Replacing the Cam project
Started tearing into the engine today to replace cam & lifters. Had to make a tool to hold the water pump pulley to get the clutch fan off. The videos don't tell you about 2 small metal clips (12 & 6 o'clock position) which hold the electric fan onto the radiator. They also don't mention the electrical connector at the very back of the intake manifold which has to be unclipped before you can remove the manifold....I could get it to go, so I cut the wires. I'll make a longer pigtail harness so it's not such a pain when putting it back together.
The bad news was I found that mice had been turning the foam rubber pad between the block & manifold into a motel. Also I broke the expansion valve when trying to slightly bend the AC lines out of the way so I could remove the pass side valve cover. I was trying my best to not have to recharge the AC, but now that idea is shot.
I built some metal plates that I hope will fit behind the harmonic damper so I can use my regular puller
get it pulled off.
The bad news was I found that mice had been turning the foam rubber pad between the block & manifold into a motel. Also I broke the expansion valve when trying to slightly bend the AC lines out of the way so I could remove the pass side valve cover. I was trying my best to not have to recharge the AC, but now that idea is shot.
I built some metal plates that I hope will fit behind the harmonic damper so I can use my regular puller
get it pulled off.
#2
#3
Technically, it's an Avanti II.....built in 1969 on the same original assembly line & workers as when Studebaker was still in business. We are Studebaker people. I went from Studebaker trucks to Jeep trucks, to Dodge trucks.
What a pain in the *** getting the exhaust flange bolts out was.....they used these cheap *** nut retainers that are so thin (even thinner due to rust) that they won't hold the nut from turning....I had to cut 3 of them.....the top one on the drivers side really aggravated me as the bolt head is right in line with the O2 sensor so you can't get a straight shot at it with a socket.
To get the damper off I made 3 plates (3/16 thick) with nuts tacked on to make the puller work.
Mike Sal
What a pain in the *** getting the exhaust flange bolts out was.....they used these cheap *** nut retainers that are so thin (even thinner due to rust) that they won't hold the nut from turning....I had to cut 3 of them.....the top one on the drivers side really aggravated me as the bolt head is right in line with the O2 sensor so you can't get a straight shot at it with a socket.
To get the damper off I made 3 plates (3/16 thick) with nuts tacked on to make the puller work.
Mike Sal