Here's what I did in my Ram
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07-20-2006, 08:31 PM
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Here's what I did in my Ram
Hello folks. I have a 95' Ram, standard cab. Over the years I have made MANY mods to my truck. The latest was the stereo. I can tell ya what I did and and what I have learned. I am no expert but I think I have one of the loudest, and most crisp stereo systems on the planet. Here we go.
My head unit is an Alpine 9835
I have four (4) Infinity Kappa 6x9's (693.7I) One in each door, and one behind each seat. The rear are mounted in shallow 6x9 boxes stuffed with sound foam. My original storage system behind the seat has all been removed. I have also removed my center seat and console. Behind the two rear brackets for the center seat, I had enough room for a single Audiobahn AlumQ10. It is in a bandpass box and fits perfectly without a single mod. It is a dual voice coil with a 3 ohm rating each. This means I must have a 1 ohm stable mono amp
My Amps are as follows.
Infinity 7540A. In a 4 ohm load, this amp would put out 111 watts x 4 TRUE rms. (CEA compliant) Since my kappas are a 2 ohm load, they get pushed with 139 watts each. Alomost 30 watts over their continuos program rating. Remember, power doesn't kill a speaker. Noise and distortion do. The cleaner the signal, the better the system sounds. And good sound must be accompanied by power. Lots of it.
My sub amp is an MTX 6500D. I have three of these amps. 1 being used, and 2 brand news ones because they were discontinued. Just an AMAZING amp. My sub gets hit with almost 700watts. I personally feel that the Infintys are the best midrange/high speakers you can get, and the Audiobahns, to me anyway, have the best sound and mine gets a workout.
Both amps have high flow cooling fans. The infinity has 2 opposing fans that cool the "heatsink" tunnel, top and bottom. The MTX has a single 6 inch RV fan that powers up with the stereo. You can only hear the fan at low, low volumes. When is the volume ever low?
I have a custom wound, 208 amp alternator that I have NOT been able to max out yet. That's good.lol.
I used Monster brand hi shield tri-twist cables from the amps to the deck, and from my Sirius Sportster Replay, to the deck also. (single pair for Sirius)
I used Monster 12 gauge, heavy insulation speaker wire. From the amps right to the speakers. No factory wire was used at all.
Both amps have their own dedicated 4 gauge feeds from the batteries. Both are fused in the cab just before the amp, and right at the battery. Both amps have 4 gauge grounds as well. The Infinity amp has a 1.0 farad cap, the MTX has a 1.5 farad amp. Both the voltage displays have been disabled. Also both caps have 4 gauge feed, and 4 gauge ground wires. One amp is behind the driver, one behind the passeneger seats. Underneath each seat is a ground post. Each post handles one amp, and one cap, grounds. Under the truck I have 1/0 (1 ought) wire from ground post, to the frame. The frame has 6, 1/0 ground connections. There is one from each battery to the Cummins block, one from each engine ground post to the frame, and 2 more that go from the frame, to the SIDE post negative on each battery.
As far as all the different size wires go, I purchased a Thomas & Betts crimper that will do from 8 gauge, all the way up to 4/0. I stripped each wire carefully, soldered it full, and then crimped Phillips connectors to each. Then I shrink wrap all ends. My Ram is 12 years old and the original battery cables were lookin ragged. You can just imagine how fast my starter cranks now adays...lol.
There are some "stereo" standards that hold true.
1. Keep the power and signal wires apart from each other.
2. Make sure you wire size is adequate, if not, one size up from manufacturers specs.
3. Your connectors must be tight. Crushingly tight. Any slack between the wire and the terminal can create noise, and that will be where the first corrosion sets in.
4. Make sure you vehicles electrical system can handle the load. And if you're going to spend the money, save a few of them dollars for a quality volt meter. I used the Autometer Cobalt series 6391 to monitor my electrical system. if I have my stereo pumping, my AC on, my headlights, my foglamps, and anything else,...my voltage NEVER drops below 13.7 volts. It's rock solid.
I can "thump" if I need to, but since I hate that rap crap, I have my stereo tuned to give the best all around range quality. I get nothing but amazement from folks when they hear my rig. Guys find it hard to believe that all that sound is coming from a truck. My lights never flicker either.
Someday I will learn how to put a pic on here. Good luck to all. Ride safe.
The Diesel Demon
My head unit is an Alpine 9835
I have four (4) Infinity Kappa 6x9's (693.7I) One in each door, and one behind each seat. The rear are mounted in shallow 6x9 boxes stuffed with sound foam. My original storage system behind the seat has all been removed. I have also removed my center seat and console. Behind the two rear brackets for the center seat, I had enough room for a single Audiobahn AlumQ10. It is in a bandpass box and fits perfectly without a single mod. It is a dual voice coil with a 3 ohm rating each. This means I must have a 1 ohm stable mono amp
My Amps are as follows.
Infinity 7540A. In a 4 ohm load, this amp would put out 111 watts x 4 TRUE rms. (CEA compliant) Since my kappas are a 2 ohm load, they get pushed with 139 watts each. Alomost 30 watts over their continuos program rating. Remember, power doesn't kill a speaker. Noise and distortion do. The cleaner the signal, the better the system sounds. And good sound must be accompanied by power. Lots of it.
My sub amp is an MTX 6500D. I have three of these amps. 1 being used, and 2 brand news ones because they were discontinued. Just an AMAZING amp. My sub gets hit with almost 700watts. I personally feel that the Infintys are the best midrange/high speakers you can get, and the Audiobahns, to me anyway, have the best sound and mine gets a workout.
Both amps have high flow cooling fans. The infinity has 2 opposing fans that cool the "heatsink" tunnel, top and bottom. The MTX has a single 6 inch RV fan that powers up with the stereo. You can only hear the fan at low, low volumes. When is the volume ever low?
I have a custom wound, 208 amp alternator that I have NOT been able to max out yet. That's good.lol.
I used Monster brand hi shield tri-twist cables from the amps to the deck, and from my Sirius Sportster Replay, to the deck also. (single pair for Sirius)
I used Monster 12 gauge, heavy insulation speaker wire. From the amps right to the speakers. No factory wire was used at all.
Both amps have their own dedicated 4 gauge feeds from the batteries. Both are fused in the cab just before the amp, and right at the battery. Both amps have 4 gauge grounds as well. The Infinity amp has a 1.0 farad cap, the MTX has a 1.5 farad amp. Both the voltage displays have been disabled. Also both caps have 4 gauge feed, and 4 gauge ground wires. One amp is behind the driver, one behind the passeneger seats. Underneath each seat is a ground post. Each post handles one amp, and one cap, grounds. Under the truck I have 1/0 (1 ought) wire from ground post, to the frame. The frame has 6, 1/0 ground connections. There is one from each battery to the Cummins block, one from each engine ground post to the frame, and 2 more that go from the frame, to the SIDE post negative on each battery.
As far as all the different size wires go, I purchased a Thomas & Betts crimper that will do from 8 gauge, all the way up to 4/0. I stripped each wire carefully, soldered it full, and then crimped Phillips connectors to each. Then I shrink wrap all ends. My Ram is 12 years old and the original battery cables were lookin ragged. You can just imagine how fast my starter cranks now adays...lol.
There are some "stereo" standards that hold true.
1. Keep the power and signal wires apart from each other.
2. Make sure you wire size is adequate, if not, one size up from manufacturers specs.
3. Your connectors must be tight. Crushingly tight. Any slack between the wire and the terminal can create noise, and that will be where the first corrosion sets in.
4. Make sure you vehicles electrical system can handle the load. And if you're going to spend the money, save a few of them dollars for a quality volt meter. I used the Autometer Cobalt series 6391 to monitor my electrical system. if I have my stereo pumping, my AC on, my headlights, my foglamps, and anything else,...my voltage NEVER drops below 13.7 volts. It's rock solid.
I can "thump" if I need to, but since I hate that rap crap, I have my stereo tuned to give the best all around range quality. I get nothing but amazement from folks when they hear my rig. Guys find it hard to believe that all that sound is coming from a truck. My lights never flicker either.
Someday I will learn how to put a pic on here. Good luck to all. Ride safe.
The Diesel Demon
#2
07-23-2006, 05:35 PM
RE: Here's what I did in my Ram
pics are easy to post.. simplest way is to use http://www.imageshack.us upload your image, then copy and paste the Thumbnail for Forums [1] .. usually the best to use.
and Rap crap is horrible to be playing.. mind you, you get alot of wierd looks when you're playing some real thrashy death metal parked at a set of lights with a pair of senior citizens in the lane next to you.
and Rap crap is horrible to be playing.. mind you, you get alot of wierd looks when you're playing some real thrashy death metal parked at a set of lights with a pair of senior citizens in the lane next to you.
#3
07-24-2006, 03:06 AM
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#5
07-28-2006, 05:39 PM
RE: Here's what I did in my Ram
nice to hear that u are using an infinity set up... Audiobahns are ok by me it was my first sub... I like the old Pioneer Premiers (they dont make them anymore) but now i run higher end subs, such as Eclipse and now Resonant Engineering. Hope to see some pix of your install
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07-28-2006, 08:27 PM
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07-28-2006, 08:53 PM
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#8
07-29-2006, 12:04 AM
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RE: Here's what I did in my Ram
Please forgive me if these do not work.
http://www.imageshack.us/user/dieseldemon http://www.imageshack.us/user/dieseldemon
Ok guys, I really hope this works.....lol.
And one more thing. I know the wiring looks sloppy. I have not trimmed anything because all the power wires cost me a bundle. So I used it all. I will chop one end and crimp new when the new rug and seats go in. The wiring is top notch. I'll ziptie next week...lol
Now, a quick note about me and my attitude towards my truck.
First off, I am NOT a wash and wax guy. You can see by the pics there is dust, and some body work to be done. I have all new fenders, doors, panels, cab corners, etc. But right now I have ZERO desire to start it...lol. My first concerns are mechanical performance and vehicle reliability. I consider my beast to be one of the most mechanically sound trucks on the road. I use it like it was meant to be used
She tops out at 97mph, I don't push past that. It has horsepower and torque all day long. I know how to use those gauges for max performance. My pipe is an OLD MBRP stainless system that has a true 5inch downpipe, and is 5 inch all the way back to a 6 inch chrome tip. No muffler, no air freshener. Just a small resonator. She clouds all day long.
Other mods I have done are.
PDR HX40 Hybrid turbo
Bosch 370 marine injectors
#10 fuel place with 1 degree of advance. I have completely rebuilt my Bosch P7100. Nothing like spending $90 for a Snap-On delivery valve removal tool....lol.
Studded heads (ATS kit)
ATS 5 Star TC with Co-pilot
ATS 3 piece manifold (not on yet)
ATS fire ring cylinder head. (It's my original that I sent to them)
PDR intercooler boots
2 10 inch cab controlled pusher fans on my condenser. If I have to sit somewhere for a while, I use them for extra air movement when the A/C is on. Works AMAZINGLY well. An old fridge repair man told me to use that Robinaire fins cleaner. I do it at first spring, check the high and low side ports with a gauge, just to make sure she didn't loose that much during the winter. And then maybe once every 6 weeks or so. A gorilla like me can tell you when 3 BTU's are being lost due to inefficiency...lol. You don't think **** gets lodged in there but it's the oily greasy crap from the GM beater in front of you. By "beater" I mean anything that GM makes with a gas or Duramax engine.....LOL.
Autometer Cobalt series gauges with custom dimmers that I installed for each. I have four gauges mounted now but I have 5 more to install. Probably between the seats I will build a "monitoring center" and locate all the gauges there. I have actually been ticketed for obstructed view having my gauge pod on top. The judge tossed the charge. Stupid cop.
I have rebuilt both axles. The rear has a Detroit Truetrac, and I have a new Eaton E-locker for the front. I wish they made it for the back cause I give up a lot of rubber in exchange.lol
3 inch suspension lift by Tough Country
AGR steering gear
I have that steering stabilizer that mounts to the frame and stabilizes the steering gear shaft. I also have his tracbar adapater. Uses a 03? and up tracbar and gets rid of that factory ball stud JUNK bar. I can't remember the guys name, he was from Canada. PDR sells their stuff. The stabilzer works great.
208 amp alternator
God, there is so many more little things. I guess I should cover a few of the pics that I just posted.
There is my Infintiy Kappa 693.7I 6x9s. One in each door and one behind each seat.
A single 10 inch Audiobahn Alum10q between the seats. Obviously I removed the center seat. It's in that bandpass box in the pics.
You can laugh at my RV fan that I use to cool the MTX mono amp, but it works great.
The Infinity amp you can see the fans at the top left and bottom right. They blow air right down thru the heatsink tunnel. The amps never get hot.
You can see the two DUSTY capacitors.
And there is my Alpine 9835 hu.
My RF Limited Omegaforce S-45 Cb/Ham radio. I use a wilson magnettic on the roof.
The other two antennas are scanner and high band radio antennas.
My autometer gauges
And the two pics show the ground post behind each seat. The pic of the wire twisted into a pretzel is one of six (6) 1/0 grounds under the truck. I have regrounded every body panel as well with 8 gauge.
I crimp my own and use COPPER terminals only. I have made all new battery cables, and a new 4 gauge feed from the alt to the batteries. I got power all day long...LOL. She's a work in progress. EVERYTHING is relayed, and fused. The trigger wire from the hu activates a Bosch relay. The relay controls both amplifiers, the cooling fans, and a noise supressor. And just to make sure that you don't key up the cb while the amps are on...... it's relayed so that the CB and stereo cannot operate at the same time. I may just install a switch in the mic handle so I can listen while listening to both, and also have the safety of not keying up if I accidently go to transmit. My friends make fun of me cause I have chicken band. That cb has saved my *** PLENTY of times to the point where that radio has earned her keep...lol. SHE CAN STAY TOO!
Well, sorry it took so long. Hope this works cause my hands are about to fall off....lol. Talk to you guys later.
Big Ang
http://www.imageshack.us/user/dieseldemon http://www.imageshack.us/user/dieseldemon
Ok guys, I really hope this works.....lol.
And one more thing. I know the wiring looks sloppy. I have not trimmed anything because all the power wires cost me a bundle. So I used it all. I will chop one end and crimp new when the new rug and seats go in. The wiring is top notch. I'll ziptie next week...lol
Now, a quick note about me and my attitude towards my truck.
First off, I am NOT a wash and wax guy. You can see by the pics there is dust, and some body work to be done. I have all new fenders, doors, panels, cab corners, etc. But right now I have ZERO desire to start it...lol. My first concerns are mechanical performance and vehicle reliability. I consider my beast to be one of the most mechanically sound trucks on the road. I use it like it was meant to be used
She tops out at 97mph, I don't push past that. It has horsepower and torque all day long. I know how to use those gauges for max performance. My pipe is an OLD MBRP stainless system that has a true 5inch downpipe, and is 5 inch all the way back to a 6 inch chrome tip. No muffler, no air freshener. Just a small resonator. She clouds all day long.
Other mods I have done are.
PDR HX40 Hybrid turbo
Bosch 370 marine injectors
#10 fuel place with 1 degree of advance. I have completely rebuilt my Bosch P7100. Nothing like spending $90 for a Snap-On delivery valve removal tool....lol.
Studded heads (ATS kit)
ATS 5 Star TC with Co-pilot
ATS 3 piece manifold (not on yet)
ATS fire ring cylinder head. (It's my original that I sent to them)
PDR intercooler boots
2 10 inch cab controlled pusher fans on my condenser. If I have to sit somewhere for a while, I use them for extra air movement when the A/C is on. Works AMAZINGLY well. An old fridge repair man told me to use that Robinaire fins cleaner. I do it at first spring, check the high and low side ports with a gauge, just to make sure she didn't loose that much during the winter. And then maybe once every 6 weeks or so. A gorilla like me can tell you when 3 BTU's are being lost due to inefficiency...lol. You don't think **** gets lodged in there but it's the oily greasy crap from the GM beater in front of you. By "beater" I mean anything that GM makes with a gas or Duramax engine.....LOL.
Autometer Cobalt series gauges with custom dimmers that I installed for each. I have four gauges mounted now but I have 5 more to install. Probably between the seats I will build a "monitoring center" and locate all the gauges there. I have actually been ticketed for obstructed view having my gauge pod on top. The judge tossed the charge. Stupid cop.
I have rebuilt both axles. The rear has a Detroit Truetrac, and I have a new Eaton E-locker for the front. I wish they made it for the back cause I give up a lot of rubber in exchange.lol
3 inch suspension lift by Tough Country
AGR steering gear
I have that steering stabilizer that mounts to the frame and stabilizes the steering gear shaft. I also have his tracbar adapater. Uses a 03? and up tracbar and gets rid of that factory ball stud JUNK bar. I can't remember the guys name, he was from Canada. PDR sells their stuff. The stabilzer works great.
208 amp alternator
God, there is so many more little things. I guess I should cover a few of the pics that I just posted.
There is my Infintiy Kappa 693.7I 6x9s. One in each door and one behind each seat.
A single 10 inch Audiobahn Alum10q between the seats. Obviously I removed the center seat. It's in that bandpass box in the pics.
You can laugh at my RV fan that I use to cool the MTX mono amp, but it works great.
The Infinity amp you can see the fans at the top left and bottom right. They blow air right down thru the heatsink tunnel. The amps never get hot.
You can see the two DUSTY capacitors.
And there is my Alpine 9835 hu.
My RF Limited Omegaforce S-45 Cb/Ham radio. I use a wilson magnettic on the roof.
The other two antennas are scanner and high band radio antennas.
My autometer gauges
And the two pics show the ground post behind each seat. The pic of the wire twisted into a pretzel is one of six (6) 1/0 grounds under the truck. I have regrounded every body panel as well with 8 gauge.
I crimp my own and use COPPER terminals only. I have made all new battery cables, and a new 4 gauge feed from the alt to the batteries. I got power all day long...LOL. She's a work in progress. EVERYTHING is relayed, and fused. The trigger wire from the hu activates a Bosch relay. The relay controls both amplifiers, the cooling fans, and a noise supressor. And just to make sure that you don't key up the cb while the amps are on...... it's relayed so that the CB and stereo cannot operate at the same time. I may just install a switch in the mic handle so I can listen while listening to both, and also have the safety of not keying up if I accidently go to transmit. My friends make fun of me cause I have chicken band. That cb has saved my *** PLENTY of times to the point where that radio has earned her keep...lol. SHE CAN STAY TOO!
Well, sorry it took so long. Hope this works cause my hands are about to fall off....lol. Talk to you guys later.
Big Ang
#9
07-29-2006, 12:06 AM
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RE: Here's what I did in my Ram
It didn't work.....what did I do wrong?
WAIT, WAIT......... I may have it ...lol.
And for all those interested, my family owns an Italian restaurant. The spots behind the mic in the CB radio pic are sauce stains. Sauce stains from my first "stomp on the pedal for all she's got" cause some dumb SOB on a phone, who can't walk and chew gum at the same time, decides to run a red light....BUT THANKFULLY I NOW HAVE HYDROBOOST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Well, two things shot forward....
1. My dinner I just picked up.
2. My fat body........ All my deepest respect to the person who designs seat belts. LOL. Drive safe.
WAIT, WAIT......... I may have it ...lol.
And for all those interested, my family owns an Italian restaurant. The spots behind the mic in the CB radio pic are sauce stains. Sauce stains from my first "stomp on the pedal for all she's got" cause some dumb SOB on a phone, who can't walk and chew gum at the same time, decides to run a red light....BUT THANKFULLY I NOW HAVE HYDROBOOST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. Well, two things shot forward....
1. My dinner I just picked up.
2. My fat body........ All my deepest respect to the person who designs seat belts. LOL. Drive safe.
