3rd Gen Ram Sparkplugs - 3.7 Liter Ram 1500
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3rd Gen Ram Sparkplugs - 3.7 Liter Ram 1500
Decided to change them today. I was bored...i actually went out and bought them last night at like 10pm.
Tools Needed: The bold tools are the ones needed to complete the job - the bare minimum. the rest of the tools are a MASSIVE help, cause the job would be possible, but extremely difficult with just the basic tools in bold.
Flathead Screwdriver
10mm Wrench
10mm Socket
3/8" Drive Ratchet
"Common" size extensions
Spark Plug Socket
MORE extensions
Stubby Ratchet
Step of some sort (I used my 4foot ladder)
Swivel Socket
Extendable Magnet
Air Blower (whether it be a can of air or a air compressor setup in garage)
Here's the "setup" I used to make myself at a good level:
For the passenger-side plugs:
^^ The whole time, i had left foot on first step of ladder, and right leg on bumper. I was standing fairly upright the whole time, and was never feeling dangerous or way too uncomfortable.
For the driver-side plugs:
^^ Same setup. Simple Enough. This side was more of a pain in the @$$ though. I have a REALLY bad knee...it's metal, with skin and muscle grafts, etc. So, if i could be comfortable like this, chances are you can too.
Let's get started!
Step 1: Remove Air Intake
^^ In my case, i have a cold air intake, so i have chrome tubing instead of the stock air box. If you have the stock intake, remove it. it's basically everything connected to the tube coming out of your resonator (the resonator is the thing that says MAGNUM 3.7 V6 on it) All it takes is a few twists and turns of some items, a couple buckles, etc, etc...it's really easy to get out.
^^ okay, intake is out.
Step 2: Remove resonator
First be sure to disconnect the air temp sensor located right at the point of entry into your resonator.
^^ again, yours may look slightly different. i have a powerwire. if you have the stock setup still, that little gray connector will be plugged into the resonator intead of piggybacking into a powerwire, then into resonator.
Your resonator also has two 10mm bolts on it. Remove them.
^^ There is one
^^ Other one is located under the entry point of your resonator. Also, it looks like there is one up in front of the resonator, but it isn't - it's just a drop in grommet/nipple.
The last thing connecting your resonator is the hose clamp that clamps your resonator to the throttle body.
^^ It's way behind resonator, and that's a huge screw driver reaching over there to turn the clamp. Screwdriver wasn't the easiest way to get it, but it worked. I'll show you how i put it back on later in this write-up.
Lift the front of resonator (off of that nipple/grommet thing in front), and pull away from throttle body (forward).
^^ Resonator is out
Step 3: Remove/Replace Plugs
I'll walk you through first one, and you simply repeat that to each other plug. The first one i chose to do was also the easiest one (the ones in back are a huge pain in the butt).
okay, so first you'll notice that there are no spark plug wires. Each cylinder has it's own coil pack, with a nut holding it down.
^^ The nuts holding the coil packs down are also 10mm. Wrench/ratchet/whatever tool will do.
After you get the coil pack nut off, you wanna remove the connector from the coil pack as well.
^^ You squeeze it, then pull. It's pretty easy. Anyways, keep in mind, this whole step is being described/illustrated with one plug - so, basically the front passenger side plug.
Now, nothing is holding the coil pack down (except for the tight suction fit around the spark plug).
^^ Grab it, pull it right up and off of spark plug. Again, this plug is the easy one. On some of the other plugs, it's not so easy to grab it and pull it up.
This is what the coil pack looks like.
^^ keep it free of dust, wipe it down, etc, etc. I feel you wanna keep stuff clean when dealing with spark plugs...seeing as you're dealing with a direct access point into the middle of engine.
The spark plug is now exposed.
^^ drop your socket onto the plug, and crack it loose. Be sure to keep one hand on the head of ratchet to keep the socket/extension vertical to the sparkplug to prevent breaking off the head. anyways, yea, just crack it loose.
Now that it's cracked loose (less than 1/4 turn), blow air down into that valley...
^^ You wanna blow some air into that little valley to blow our any dirt/debris that may be residing in there. that's why i suggest just "cracking it lose", cause you don't wanna just take it all the way out and have any possible debris inside that valley to fall into engine. If you don't have an air compressor, use those cans that computer people use in their computer and stuff; hell, BLOW into the damn hole. How necesarry is this? It's your truck...duh. Take all precautions =)
Now, take spark plug all the way out.
^^ Again, remember to keep a hand on the head of ratchet to keep it vertical. You don't wanna brake the ceramic on the plug. Not because you don't wanna break them (you're gonna throw them away anyways), but you don't want any hunks of porcelain falling into engine. Makes sense, right?
here's the old plug, next to the new plug
^^ I used ngk iridium ix plugs. I think the Bosch +4 ones are a gimmick. Electricty is gonna take the shortest path, and you never really get a "4-way" spark out of those things...but whatever.
Gap the plug
^^ There are many different tools to gap the plugs. I have a cool little gadget for it. But anyways, .040 is what it says to gap them at on the sticker under the hood. ALL of the plugs were pre-gapped perfectly. So, if you don't have a gapper, there's probably no need.
Drop new plug into hole.
^^ Use the same tool you used to get it out, to put back in (except, without ratchet attached). Start it with your fingers to make sure it catches. Stripping or crossthreading these threads would not be good. They say use a torque wrench to tighten them to 12-14 ft/lbs. I don't have a little one available - just know 12-14 lbs is not much at all. Once you get thread started, put your ratchet on there, and tighten. it will "bottom out" a little bit - tighten a little more, and it will fully bottom out (you're compressing that little silver washer attached to plug). Then, a BIT more (maybe less than 1/8 turn). These don't need to be too right, they aren't going anywhere.
Put coil packback on
^^ just pop it right back onto new plug (making surethat the coil pack goes through the bolt that receives the nuts that holds the coil pack down.
You're basically done with this one plug. You can reconnect the wire now, or wait until later. No harm in waiting, cause the spark plug is now protecting from dust and what now. The same idea goes for the nut that holds the coil pack down - put it on now, or later, no big deal. Just remember when you put it back on, it's doesn't need to be tight at all. Just a little more than finger tight is fine - all it does is holding the coil pack down.
Steps 4-8: Repeat "Step 3" to other plugs.
The plugs can be tricky to get to. They are all done the same way - remove nut, remove wire, remove coil, remove plug, gap plug, replace plug, drop coil on, attach wire, attach nut...but there is alot more knuckle banging involved. Some of them are tricky to get used to. Most of the coil pack nuts are best accessible by a 10mm wrench like 1/8 turn at a time...but oh well, after 1/2 a turn they're already loose enough to use your fingers. See the bottom of this write up for samples and ideas of the awkward spaces i came across.
OKAY, so you just did all your plugs. Start car for a few seconds, make sure it runs/idles right - with the resonator off. (if you get a check engine light, disconnect battery, then reconnect...problem solved). Now what you find yourself left with is a completely exposed engine. Maybe do a little cleaning...so detailed air spraying should be done at the minumum, but i'd reccomend cleaning the throttle body too...
Step 9: Put resonator back in.
Just throw it back in, making sure hose is as far onto the throttle body as possible (if you drop that rubber nipple/grommet in front where it should be, throttle body ought to be where it should be as well. Tighten clamp.
^^ I didn't like the screw driver method when removing, so i just went nuts with the right size socket + swivel + extension + super long extension + rathet. I was able to tighten that hose clamp while standing beside my dirvers side front wheel.
Don't forget, these are two more bolt that hold this resonator down. Bolt those back in with a 10mm, and resonator it now connected.
These is also the air temp sensor you gotta re-connect as well.
^^ Remember, it's right behind the "entry" to your resonator
Step 10: Put intake back in
At this point, you should consider your options. Have you been looking into an aftermarket intake? Do you need a new air filter? DO IT NOW!
I can't really give detailed instructions, but if you got it out, it'll be even easier to get it back in. I have an aftermarket cold air intake, so it was literally one hose clamp, and i was done
^^ Intake's back in, and i'm ready to roll.
Here are some pictures:
^^ This is just an example of why i had to use a 10mm wrench, and not a socket - there's big hose directly above it. Also, this is a good picture to let you see what this "coil pack nut" actually is.
^^ This is the rear passenger side plug. There is the dipstick, and all this other crap in the way. I have a stubby ratchet...and i finally got to use it.
^^ I didn't wanna drop the plug like a foot into the spark plug hole, so i used a magnet to place them down in there. I got scared that sicne i wad to drop them from so high (such as above a hose or something), it might actually hit just right and close the gap on the plug. Eh, i had the tool, why not do it.
^^ The driver's side rear plug was the worst. So many wires, the big power brake thing is in way, etc. You can barely even see my ratchet head in the pic above.
Ram3rdGen
Tools Needed: The bold tools are the ones needed to complete the job - the bare minimum. the rest of the tools are a MASSIVE help, cause the job would be possible, but extremely difficult with just the basic tools in bold.
Flathead Screwdriver
10mm Wrench
10mm Socket
3/8" Drive Ratchet
"Common" size extensions
Spark Plug Socket
MORE extensions
Stubby Ratchet
Step of some sort (I used my 4foot ladder)
Swivel Socket
Extendable Magnet
Air Blower (whether it be a can of air or a air compressor setup in garage)
Here's the "setup" I used to make myself at a good level:
For the passenger-side plugs:
^^ The whole time, i had left foot on first step of ladder, and right leg on bumper. I was standing fairly upright the whole time, and was never feeling dangerous or way too uncomfortable.
For the driver-side plugs:
^^ Same setup. Simple Enough. This side was more of a pain in the @$$ though. I have a REALLY bad knee...it's metal, with skin and muscle grafts, etc. So, if i could be comfortable like this, chances are you can too.
Let's get started!
Step 1: Remove Air Intake
^^ In my case, i have a cold air intake, so i have chrome tubing instead of the stock air box. If you have the stock intake, remove it. it's basically everything connected to the tube coming out of your resonator (the resonator is the thing that says MAGNUM 3.7 V6 on it) All it takes is a few twists and turns of some items, a couple buckles, etc, etc...it's really easy to get out.
^^ okay, intake is out.
Step 2: Remove resonator
First be sure to disconnect the air temp sensor located right at the point of entry into your resonator.
^^ again, yours may look slightly different. i have a powerwire. if you have the stock setup still, that little gray connector will be plugged into the resonator intead of piggybacking into a powerwire, then into resonator.
Your resonator also has two 10mm bolts on it. Remove them.
^^ There is one
^^ Other one is located under the entry point of your resonator. Also, it looks like there is one up in front of the resonator, but it isn't - it's just a drop in grommet/nipple.
The last thing connecting your resonator is the hose clamp that clamps your resonator to the throttle body.
^^ It's way behind resonator, and that's a huge screw driver reaching over there to turn the clamp. Screwdriver wasn't the easiest way to get it, but it worked. I'll show you how i put it back on later in this write-up.
Lift the front of resonator (off of that nipple/grommet thing in front), and pull away from throttle body (forward).
^^ Resonator is out
Step 3: Remove/Replace Plugs
I'll walk you through first one, and you simply repeat that to each other plug. The first one i chose to do was also the easiest one (the ones in back are a huge pain in the butt).
okay, so first you'll notice that there are no spark plug wires. Each cylinder has it's own coil pack, with a nut holding it down.
^^ The nuts holding the coil packs down are also 10mm. Wrench/ratchet/whatever tool will do.
After you get the coil pack nut off, you wanna remove the connector from the coil pack as well.
^^ You squeeze it, then pull. It's pretty easy. Anyways, keep in mind, this whole step is being described/illustrated with one plug - so, basically the front passenger side plug.
Now, nothing is holding the coil pack down (except for the tight suction fit around the spark plug).
^^ Grab it, pull it right up and off of spark plug. Again, this plug is the easy one. On some of the other plugs, it's not so easy to grab it and pull it up.
This is what the coil pack looks like.
^^ keep it free of dust, wipe it down, etc, etc. I feel you wanna keep stuff clean when dealing with spark plugs...seeing as you're dealing with a direct access point into the middle of engine.
The spark plug is now exposed.
^^ drop your socket onto the plug, and crack it loose. Be sure to keep one hand on the head of ratchet to keep the socket/extension vertical to the sparkplug to prevent breaking off the head. anyways, yea, just crack it loose.
Now that it's cracked loose (less than 1/4 turn), blow air down into that valley...
^^ You wanna blow some air into that little valley to blow our any dirt/debris that may be residing in there. that's why i suggest just "cracking it lose", cause you don't wanna just take it all the way out and have any possible debris inside that valley to fall into engine. If you don't have an air compressor, use those cans that computer people use in their computer and stuff; hell, BLOW into the damn hole. How necesarry is this? It's your truck...duh. Take all precautions =)
Now, take spark plug all the way out.
^^ Again, remember to keep a hand on the head of ratchet to keep it vertical. You don't wanna brake the ceramic on the plug. Not because you don't wanna break them (you're gonna throw them away anyways), but you don't want any hunks of porcelain falling into engine. Makes sense, right?
here's the old plug, next to the new plug
^^ I used ngk iridium ix plugs. I think the Bosch +4 ones are a gimmick. Electricty is gonna take the shortest path, and you never really get a "4-way" spark out of those things...but whatever.
Gap the plug
^^ There are many different tools to gap the plugs. I have a cool little gadget for it. But anyways, .040 is what it says to gap them at on the sticker under the hood. ALL of the plugs were pre-gapped perfectly. So, if you don't have a gapper, there's probably no need.
Drop new plug into hole.
^^ Use the same tool you used to get it out, to put back in (except, without ratchet attached). Start it with your fingers to make sure it catches. Stripping or crossthreading these threads would not be good. They say use a torque wrench to tighten them to 12-14 ft/lbs. I don't have a little one available - just know 12-14 lbs is not much at all. Once you get thread started, put your ratchet on there, and tighten. it will "bottom out" a little bit - tighten a little more, and it will fully bottom out (you're compressing that little silver washer attached to plug). Then, a BIT more (maybe less than 1/8 turn). These don't need to be too right, they aren't going anywhere.
Put coil packback on
^^ just pop it right back onto new plug (making surethat the coil pack goes through the bolt that receives the nuts that holds the coil pack down.
You're basically done with this one plug. You can reconnect the wire now, or wait until later. No harm in waiting, cause the spark plug is now protecting from dust and what now. The same idea goes for the nut that holds the coil pack down - put it on now, or later, no big deal. Just remember when you put it back on, it's doesn't need to be tight at all. Just a little more than finger tight is fine - all it does is holding the coil pack down.
Steps 4-8: Repeat "Step 3" to other plugs.
The plugs can be tricky to get to. They are all done the same way - remove nut, remove wire, remove coil, remove plug, gap plug, replace plug, drop coil on, attach wire, attach nut...but there is alot more knuckle banging involved. Some of them are tricky to get used to. Most of the coil pack nuts are best accessible by a 10mm wrench like 1/8 turn at a time...but oh well, after 1/2 a turn they're already loose enough to use your fingers. See the bottom of this write up for samples and ideas of the awkward spaces i came across.
OKAY, so you just did all your plugs. Start car for a few seconds, make sure it runs/idles right - with the resonator off. (if you get a check engine light, disconnect battery, then reconnect...problem solved). Now what you find yourself left with is a completely exposed engine. Maybe do a little cleaning...so detailed air spraying should be done at the minumum, but i'd reccomend cleaning the throttle body too...
Step 9: Put resonator back in.
Just throw it back in, making sure hose is as far onto the throttle body as possible (if you drop that rubber nipple/grommet in front where it should be, throttle body ought to be where it should be as well. Tighten clamp.
^^ I didn't like the screw driver method when removing, so i just went nuts with the right size socket + swivel + extension + super long extension + rathet. I was able to tighten that hose clamp while standing beside my dirvers side front wheel.
Don't forget, these are two more bolt that hold this resonator down. Bolt those back in with a 10mm, and resonator it now connected.
These is also the air temp sensor you gotta re-connect as well.
^^ Remember, it's right behind the "entry" to your resonator
Step 10: Put intake back in
At this point, you should consider your options. Have you been looking into an aftermarket intake? Do you need a new air filter? DO IT NOW!
I can't really give detailed instructions, but if you got it out, it'll be even easier to get it back in. I have an aftermarket cold air intake, so it was literally one hose clamp, and i was done
^^ Intake's back in, and i'm ready to roll.
Here are some pictures:
^^ This is just an example of why i had to use a 10mm wrench, and not a socket - there's big hose directly above it. Also, this is a good picture to let you see what this "coil pack nut" actually is.
^^ This is the rear passenger side plug. There is the dipstick, and all this other crap in the way. I have a stubby ratchet...and i finally got to use it.
^^ I didn't wanna drop the plug like a foot into the spark plug hole, so i used a magnet to place them down in there. I got scared that sicne i wad to drop them from so high (such as above a hose or something), it might actually hit just right and close the gap on the plug. Eh, i had the tool, why not do it.
^^ The driver's side rear plug was the worst. So many wires, the big power brake thing is in way, etc. You can barely even see my ratchet head in the pic above.
Ram3rdGen
Last edited by derricksmash; Jan 12, 2009 at 12:49 AM.
