how to remove the Alternator
 

Alternator removal its Ddoge cailber 2007. the over runing cluthc pulley is going out. does any one have a part number for the 6 groove pulley. i want to put a normal 6 groove pulley on Over Running clutch pulley.

so how hard is it to remove the Alternator.

So no one knows

I tried to post this link last night but the site died. Go here and download the service manual. It's quite helpful. I have never removed one from a Caliber yet.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...ce-manual.html

Don't know if i am too late for response, But you remove the Serpentine belt, I think you have to remove the Idler pulley.
Drop the A/C compressor by unbolting it from the Bottom, let it hang by the A/C line.
Now you should be able to reach all the Alternator bolts, and the Alternator comes out from the Bottom of the car, from where the A/C compressor is.

Yes, space are tight, it is a Bitch to wiggle it out if it is ur first time doing this job.

I have always thought that the alternator should be the one belt driven accessory to be accessible from the top. It's almost always the first item to fail!!

They stuck this alternator in the worst place ever. Yes, you have to take off the A/C compressor. Then, you also need to remove the crossmember bolts under the motor. Then, you need to removed the bolts on upper motor mount. You have to then drop the motor down through the bottom to give yourself enough space to pull the alternator out the bottom of the car. I had to do this with my brother-n-laws and I tell you, for the first time doing it, I hope to never have to do it again. Good luck.

Yikes!! Reminds me of the 90's 3.4L DOHC Lumina and MonteCarlos where you have to pull an axle and everything to change the alternator. The book calls for 8.5hrs to change it on one of those. I hope ours either goes while it is under the 7yr bumper to bumper warranty that I bought of it last forever. I don't wanna have to change it :(

Good job on buying that waranty, but u shoulda buy a longer one. I donno how is the road condition in ur neighborhood, but at where i work, by the time u hit 60K, ur Lower control arms are going to be shot, the Tie rod end will losen up, and probably 1 or 2 strut will start leaking, windows will roll down at the speed of a turtle because the Regulators are worn out. etc.. etc..

The miles stay low. It's almost 2.5 yrs old and barely has 15K on it. The wife only lives a few miles from work and only works 4 days a week. We got the longest time warranty with 84mo/60K miles that they offered other than lifetime. Roads are crappy around here too. I just noticed when rereading the lifetime powertrain warranty, that it even covers the water pump and CV boots.
I'm driving it to work this week since I drive 72 miles round trip a day to save gas over the 17mpg I average in the Ram. I filled up today so I can refill on Friday and check the mpg. This tank got 27mpg mostly city driving. I'm looking for 33 to 34mpg on Friday. It's only rated for 27hwy. The Ram is a couple of months older than the Caliber and it has 43K already :(

I am not surprised, the new Rams are freaking nice. The caliber is no comparison.

If you drive it 200K miles, you would probably spend most of ur money on brakes, tires, and misc maintainence like fluid exchange and tune ups.