Blower motor replacement
 

Need instructions on replacing a front seat blower motor in a 2003 Caravan (And, yes, I already checked the resistor pack.)
Thanks.

Rick

RE: Blower motor replacement
 

Sorry to tell you that the dash will need to come out and move the heater box back about 6 inchs.

RE: Blower motor replacement
 

here you go:

http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=d5gr23k_6g433kpcp

and

http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=d5gr23k_7p26sr5c2

RE: Blower motor replacement
 

you do NOT have to remove the dash, i know it says that in dealerconnect but if you are careful you can remove it without removing the dash. you must be very careful with the recirc door so you don't break it off its mount at the top. but yes, it can be done i've done it many times.

RE: Blower motor replacement
 

How do I do that without removing dashboard? I'm stuck with one last screw in the back.

thanks

RE: Blower motor replacement
 

I am also stuck on the last bolt of the housing (against the wheel well hump)

How do you get to this bolt?

Help would be greatly appreciated.

I need to replace the blower motor as it is drawing too much and blowing the resistor for middle ranges.

Thanks
Ed B

The only way to remove that screw is to pull the hvac housing back away from the cowl panel. The padding on the cowl has a recess in it. I suppose you can try cutting the padding away but I still doubt you'll get to it. Professional secret.......these peace of crap blower motors pay 0.6hr under warrenty. What most people I know do is remove all the other screws, remove the recirculation door motor. Push the door pivot up through the lower cover and then you kind of twist the cover to break the rear tab off that the last screw goes through. The housing can't be cold when you do it because the plastic gets very brittle and will shatter. I know it's kinda hack but without pulling the housing, that's what you do.

RE: Blower motor replacement
 

Thanks Tizzy1

That is actually what I was going to do anyway as there are already 4 bolts securing the housing which is more than enough.

Chrysler must know something that the service techs don't to only provide 0.6 hrs for RnR.

Thanks again.

Ed

It probably worked something like this, some hack started breaking them and Mopar found out. They looked at it and said, not bad, we can live with that. They figured out how long it took him to do it and changed the time accordingly. Now we all have to do it that way or lose our asses. Yay us!!

Wish I could find a dealer that'd do it that way for me...my local CJD dealer wants the full 5 hours for the dash. I told him just drop the 3 screws and snap that back tab...he looked at me like I was nuts.

The phrase "Chrysler only allowed .6hrs for it" didn't help me either.

Alas.

Does anyone have pics of this process? Or a diagram showing the bolts?

Or a tech living near Ocala, FL that wants to make a few bucks? :D
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Update:

I took 12v from the power port/lighter and put it to the motor, nada. I'm unsure if both wires into the motor take 12v or what, but what I ended up doing was with my hot and ground wires from the lighter plugged into the motor, I thumped the housing a few times and the motor started spinning.

Plugged it back into the resistor module and it now runs all speeds.

For now...

Still would like to see a removal done without taking out the dash in pics. I'm wondering if one could disassemble the motor, remove the bushings and mic the shaft and the housing that holds the bushing(s) and get a ball-bearing to replace it? VXB or Bocabearing probably have something that would fit for ~$20 in a sealed lubed bearing. Solve the issue permanently with an upgrade.