Basically as the title states. A few weeks ago I had to replace one at work and because I like to make sure things are re-assembled correctly, it’s my habit to take pics as I go (one plus of having a smartphone). I’m usually frequently interrupted with helping customers and co-workers so it’s not always easy to remember the exact way things go together.

The overall process for replacement for the 5th gen vans will be basically the same with slight differences depending on the trim package; and really, it will probably apply to almost any make of van or SUV that has a rear evaporator.

This was originally just supposed to be a rear TXV R&R but, as you’ll see, the screws and valve were seized and it wasn’t possible to separate it from the evaporator without damaging it - it’s a more common problem on higher mileage vans that have the original TXV.

NOTE: It is Dodge’s recommendation to always disconnect the negative battery cable when performing any work related to the electronics. For this job in particular I think it’s a good idea because you never know if a critter has nested in the gap between the quarter panel and body (in this area that’s not an uncommon thing) or if wiring is otherwise damaged.

Also, I’d also recommend setting the rear temp blend to 50/50 and the mode to panel/floor mix - this will set the doors to a halfway point and make removing/installing the actuators easier (pics will show); however it is possible without doing so.

It’s also important to properly recover and recharge the refrigeration system. If you don’t have access to the proper equipment, just have a shop do it. Most will charge a flat fee for this service and won’t have a problem splitting the service; however you should also keep in mind that there’s a dessicant material in the system to remove moisture (usually in the condenser or receiver). It will pull moisture directly from the air, and the general rule is that if it’s been exposed to atmosphere for 24 hours, it should be replaced.

1) Recover the refrigerant. Open the lift gate and remove the upper and lower trim pieces from the sills. The lower is held in with snap retainers and should just pop off. For the upper, I had to remove 2 screws hidden by covers then it popped off.

2) Remove the right quarter trim panel. There 4 or 5 screws to remove and the panel popped off. I also removed the seat belt anchor so I could completely remove the quarter panel - it didn’t have to be done but I found it made the job much easier.

This first pic is with the quarter panel removed. The red arrow is pointing out G302 - a primary ground point for several components. This was a good opportunity to check and clean it.



The red arrow points to G302.

3) The whole HVAC case has to come out to replace the evaporator as the screws securing the case halves are facing the body panel. The ducts just slide off and the wiring for the case is disconnected at the green connector just above G302 in the pic. I didn’t realize it at the time, but the heater core can actually stay in the van - there’s a plastic strap holding it in place and once that’s removed, the heater core can be slid out. If you wanted to remove it (flor flushing or cleaning) disconnect the lines from underneath and remove the (2) 10mm bolts securing the line bracket to the floor.

There’s a few 10mm hex bolts to remove from the perimeter of the case and then the whole case can be removed and placed on a bench for disassembly.

More pics and instructions to come (tomorrow) - I don’t want my fat fingers to somehow delete this.

 

This first pic just shows the case with the ducts removed.



The pic below shows why the evaporator had to be replaced. The seals between the expansion valve and evaporator tubes were leaking. I anticipated valve replacement because they’re positioned right behind the wheel and all the crud, dirt and water coming off the wheel (despite the mud flap) collects all over them. They’re cheap enough that, for the cost of labor to remove them anyway, it’s not worth trying to clean them.

The valve is secured to the evaporator with 2 Allen head screws that thread into an S shaped plate that catches flanges on the lines. Corrosion builds up in the gap between the screws and the valve as well as the exposed threads - in the past I’ve been able to drill the heads off the screws and pry against the S plate to remove them, but not this time. It became obvious that removing the valve wasn’t going to happen without damaging the evaporator lines.



With the case on the bench, I marked the actuators for their positions (they are interchangeable but it’s best practice to put them back in their original positions), then removed the wiring, blower motor and resistor, and actuators.



To separate the case, there’s several torx head screws (T20 or T25 I think) and some small chrome clips that can be removed with a flat blade screwdriver.




With the case apart, the evaporator can be replaced. It’s also a good time to thoroughly clean the case and heater core and inspect the doors/case for defects.

AC seals should always be replaced and lubricated with the appropriate type of AC oil to properly seal.

After re-assembly, vacuum the system for at least 30 minutes. Check for large leaks by holding the vacuum for 5 minutes - if the vacuum drops 2 in*Hg or more, try re-seating the seals at the expansion valve by loosening the screws and tightening them again.

I recommend verifying actuator and blower motor operation before reinstalling the quarter trim panel.