I own a 2001 Dodge Caravan with 3.3 engine that has just under 150,000 miles on it.

Last night, while descending a steep, curvy mountain road, we noticed a high-pitched squeal, apparently from our front brakes. Had noticed a similar sound a few weeks ago, but it was intermittent and went away. This time, it was constant and only went away when I applied the brakes. Once we hit the flats, and the highway, the noise went away. When we got home, having traveled a total of about 20 miles, I immediately noticed the pungent odor of hot brakes. Inspecting the wheels, I saw that the right front brake rotor was red-hot. Red-freaking-hot!

My theory is that the brakes heated up while descending, the rotor warped and then started hitting the pads, causing the squeal and heating up the rotor even more. I’m hoping my caliper isn’t shot. This morning, after I jacked up the car, took off the tire and spun the wheel, I could hear it rubbing on the pads but it does roll. A short test ride, about 2 miles, produced no squeal and the rotor didn’t heat up. I’m going to include some pictures to show how beat up it all looks.

This is my first look at a brake job on this van. I have some questions that I don’t think have been addressed in previous posts on this most excellent of forums.

1. Our records indicate I’ve had to replace the brake pads and rotors about every 30,000 miles for the past several years. Apparently, the rotors have been completely replaced the last two times, as opposed to having them machined. Is this rate of wear about right?

2. My rotors have a ridge along their perimeters, indicating to me that they have been resurfaced previously. Am I correct, or do they come this way out of the box?

3. I’m assuming that any rotor that gets red-freaking hot should be replaced.

4. I’ve read that I should get good quality rotors and pads. Anybody have advice on specific ones to purchase?

5. My wheel is missing the rotor retaining clips. My Haynes manual says they aren’t needed. Anybody have thoughts on this?

6. How do I determine if my caliper assembly needs replacing?

8. Everyone says to replace components on both sides of your front or rear brakes at the same time. Can I wait a few months to work on the side that isn’t causing me any trouble? I leave the country in less than two weeks and time and money are tight, tight.

Thanks in advance for any help folks can offer. Here's a link to some photos I've posted,
https://picasaweb.google.com/adam.or...RedFreakingHot

 

30K for brakes is about right. The ridge on the rotor is caused by wear, new ones are smooth. The large ridge is probably why they replace them, probably under minimum thickness. I'm a dealer tech so I use Mopar parts, I'm sure some others will throw out some aftermarket brands. The rotor retainers are just for the assembly line, they are not needed. If the caliper piston pushes back easily and the boot is in good shape, I wouldn't replace it. And yes, do both sides at the same time, otherwise you could get brake pull or other issues.

 

I am using and like the
Wagner ThermoQuiet® semi-metalic pads
on both my van and jeep(ceramic pads on the jeep) with good success, I get them from advanceautoparts,
they are not the cheapest, but they work good for me

I also have the wagner rotors too

the jeep has about 45k on the pads and rotors holding up great,
the van has about 20k on them and no problems

 

First, yes, replace the overheated rotor but when replacing rotors you should replace both sides for reasons stated. If you find a problem with the caliper you can get away with changing just the right side. Might consider changing the rubber flex line that connects to the caliper. They are known to create a rubber flap inside as they age, forming a "check valve" trapping pressure.

I've always used Raybestos semi-metalic pads on my van and others. My 96 GC has 210K+ miles and it just got it's third set of disk pads 10K ago.

 

Thanks folks, for taking the time to respond. I'm going to go shopping for parts to replace rotors and pads for both sides. I appreciate the suggestions on brands, and on how to check out the calipers. I'll let you all know how it works out. My biggest problem right now is time.

 

Annoyingly, local AutoZone appears to only carry Duralast. Any thoughts? The parts are relatively cheap, which has me worried. Can't yet find Raybestos locally, alas. I have no time to await mail shipment. Looks like I may have to go with -- gulp -- Wagner if I want something that will last a while. About $78 each for the rotors and $52 for each set of the semi-metallic pads. I can get them about 20 miles to the north. Anybody have thoughts on Wearever? They're not cheap, but they're cheaper than Wagner.

 

OK, found Raybestos to the north, maybe. Not sure the places its site lists sell parts in addition to doing repairs. J.C. Whitney has what I need online for $54 per rotor and $44 each for sets of pads. A bit easier to stomach. Free shipping but up to nine days delivery.

 

P.S. Before someone kind chimes in, I do know that the brake parts I need have to match my van's configuration, which is drum brakes in back, disk brakes in front. Some vans in my year, 2001, come with disk brakes front and back. Annoyingly, the front brake components for the two configurations are not interchangeable. Or, at least, so my manual warns me. If you look closely at these online ordering sites, you'll see which configuration you're ordering for hidden in the fine print.

 

Why not just go to a napa store, I wouldn't buy brakes from a oline company.

 

I'm with Master Tech. Go to NAPA and buy their top of the line rotors. Or, buy Raybestos or Wagner rotors. I've had really bad luck with Duralast Just had to replace a set of Duralast rotors on a VW Jetta--10 months of service and rusted so bad the metal was flaking off in sheets. Yeah, Autozone replaced them for free, but guess who had to do the labor? That's the last time I do a brake job for a friend who insists on buying cheap brake parts.