I'm getting ready to install two new Monroe Quick-Strut assemblies (171572 R/L) on my 2003 Grand Caravan Sport. Note that these are the entire assembly with the springs. I got these, in part, so I wouldn't have to deal with a compression tool.

There are two sets of instructions that come with these; the first one references the "quick strut ... modular replacement assembly" and the second one doesn't. Both say "Read this instruction sheet and any additional instructions sheets, plus any instructions printed on the parts package." The second one, however, says "Attempts to remove spring without properly restraining its load may result in injury." I'm guessing the key is that I'm not removing the spring, but the entire assembly. Still, I'm trying to avoid a trip the the E/R and not give my wife a reason to prohibit me from future DIY repairs. Can someone who's replaced the entire assembly confirm that there's no compression load that will surprise me when I remove the assembly?

Also, I'm replacing the sway bar links in this deal. Does it matter whether I do the quick struts first or the sway bar links? I'm guessing it doesn't, but would appreciate hearing from the voice of experience if there is.

Finally, is the wheel alignment affected by replacing the strut assemblies? I plan on replacing the tires next weekend and will get an alignment then for certain, but just want to be I don't cause any driveability problems until then.

 

As long as you don't remove the large nut in the center of the strut mount at the top of the unit, there's no danger.

Removing the end links will probably be the hardest part of the job, so start with those. If you can't get the end link nuts off, the pros smack the ball/socket to separate them. Then they grind a flat spot on the ball and hold it with a vice grip while they remove the nut.

The pros also attach special bubble gauge to the brake rotor to measure the camber angle before they remove the strut-to-steering-knuckle bolts. They measure the angle BEFORE removing the strut, then put it back to the same angle when they're done. If you can get your hands on a cheap angle gauge (sears, home depot, etc) you can duplicate the same procedure. See attached jpg. That will take care of the alignment issue until you can get it in for a real alignment.

Then remove the three smaller nuts holding the strut mount to the strut tower. Finally, remove the two large bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle.

 

since there is no camber adjustement on 03 caravans (unless someone installed and aftermarket camber kit) you don't need to do any crude measuring. I'm a pro and I use a Hunter G111 alignment machine to check the alignment after replaceing suspension and steering parts.

 

Having a devil of a time geting the bolts for the strut/knuckle mount off. I have already applied Kroil in an attempt to loosen the road grime. Since I am in a sub-freezing garage, I am wondering if applying heat to the nut would help at all. I've got a propane torch I can use, but don't know if that would help or be safe to use. I can rig a metal shield to protect the brake line if necessary.

Also, the Chilton manual I'm looking at instructs to "mark the position of the strut to the steering knuckle" and "Note: This is only necessary if special camber adjustment bolts have been installed in place of the regular strut-to-knuckle bolts". (The instructions that came with the Quick Struts make no mention of this.) Would this necessarily be the case when the front-end was previously aligned? Since my first trip post Quick Strut installation is to get new tires no more than 5 miles from home, do I need to be concerned about this? (Obviously, I'm getting the front end aligned with the new tire installation.)

Finally, can anyone advise what size wrench to use on the nuts to the sway bar links? The 11/16" wrench is just a tad too small, and the 3/4" is way too big, and I don't have an 18mm (which is slightly larger than the 11/16") wrench or socket in my set. This vehicle seems to have a mix of metric vs. SAE nuts and bolts: 1/2" for the nuts on the top of the struts, 10mm for the bolt holding the brake line mount on the strut, 13/16" for the bolts on the strut/knuckle mount. I would had thought that any domestic vehicle made in this century would be using all metric by now.

 

you MUST only turn the nut, the bolts are pressed into the spindle. Typical chilton generic sh%$. there is no camber adjustement. Oh and if you really did mark it on an adjustable one, 1/32" off at the knuckle can be enough to be out of whack... in otherwords, I ALWAYS check alignment any time I disturpt or replace ANY steering/suspension part. You don't have an 18mm... well you're SOL. time to take the van in and have someone with the right tools and knowledge to do the job right! BTW 100% of EVERY bolt on these vans is metric. now had you been paying attention in school, you'd know that converting SAE wrench size to metric is as easy as muliplying by 25.4 to go from SAE to mm. then you can see that there are some metric wrenches equal in size to SAE like 11mm = 7/16" and 8mm = 5/16" and 19mm = 3/4" and 13mm is pretty close to ½"

 

Just picked up an 18mm wrench. Most of the sets I saw had 17mm & 19mm, and skipped the 18mm. (BTW, I already had the conversion chart, but thanks for the lesson anyway.)

I guess you're not much into DIY'ers doing this? $10 to spend on a decent 18mm wrench, but you instead recommend I pay someone $400 to install these?

 

The quick struts do have adjustable camber. The upper of the two large bolt holes is slotted. Just make sure you bring it to the attention of the alignment shop so they don't assume it's non adjustable like the OEM struts. And just use a sawzall to cut off the old sway bar links, makes life a whole lot easier.

 

when a guy posts he cant figure out how to loosen a nut or what size wrench to use, seems that this kind of job is best left to the professionals that have the right tools and know how to use them.

 

Righty tight, lefty loosey....next stop: Emergency room

 

$400 is a lot cheaper than a van burned to the ground because of careless torch use, and $400 is a lot cheaper than the afore mentioned emergency room... and $400 is a lot better to spend on the van than the down payment on a funeral from the van falling on you.