I have also posted this in the general Dodge Trucks Forum, I apologize for multiple posts, just didn't know where exactly to place it.

I am absolutely stumped, more frustratingly, so is my local dealer! I have a 2011 2500 that I purchased new, it has just under 60K miles. 3 weeks ago, I went out to start it after sitting all night, battery was dead. My kids leave stuff on all the time, so after jumping I inspected to see that all interior lights were off. they were. away I went for the day, starting and shutting off the vehicle frequently with no problems. Next day, repeat, dead batteries. Took to Auto Zone for battery test, tested perfect. That night, I walked around the truck looking for any lights that may have been left on, or staying on for some reason. Nothing. 2 weeks I put up with this, each night unplugging CB radio, turning AC off, turning radio off, unplugged my Viper Alarm system, etc. same result every morning. This all started happening the day after I hooked up to my enclosed snowmobile trailer for the first time in 6 months, so I also put a test light on all the posts in wire harness and nothing proved HOT that should not have been.
Took truck to the dealer finally, they too tested the batteries and showed no problems. They "say" they did an amp test on all the fuses and nothing showed a "jump" upon contact of all points. Now for the messed up part, the truck was at the dealer for 5 days and they never got the truck to repeat the problem!!
It will start and run fine all day long after being jumped in the morning, the volt meter shows a solid 14 volts when running, when starting after sitting for 30 min to 2 hours it will show 10 volts until started, after sitting for 12+ hours the needle will sit between 8 and 10 volts and not start w/o a jump. I took the truck back from the dealer as is, and today I removed ALL the 12V accessory plugs, since they get used a lot to see if there is any change tomorrow morning. Any thoughts would be appreciated,,,,,, truck will be history on Monday if I can't fix this problem by then!
Thanks in advance!

 

You can disconnect the battery ground and read the current draw from the terminal to the lead with a multi-meter. If that seems normal, then replace the battery.

 

NC,

Do you have an RB2 radio? If so see below. Its the only case I could find that lists the symptoms your truck has.

Case Number: S1208000097
Release Date: 05/02/2012
Symptom/Vehicle Issue:
Vehicle Does Not Crank, Low Battery Voltage, Excess Ignition Off Draw On IOD Circuit.
Diagnosis:
Battery goes dead due to excessive IOD draw. The RB2 radio stays powered on with ignition OFF.
Verify radio software version is prior to 10.00.11 and upgrade to the latest level.

 

This test you can do yourself. Very easy. First I will say batterys need to be fully charged. A 2mp slow charge all night(6 plus hours) unhooked from vehicle. Then a load test performed. THEN you know if batterys are ok or not. Here is a draw test http://www.flashoffroad.com/electric...teryDrain.html

 

Any battery that goes down to 10 volts has a bad or weak cell, 8 volts, 2 bad or weak cells.

Vehicles contsantly draw voltage and current even when not in use, to keep correct time on the radio and circuitry for keyless entry etc. The best way to check your battery that I have found is to fully charge it, then completely disconnect it, (remove the ground cable would be sufficient) then check it with a multi meter the next day.

If you read 12 volts battery should be good, if you read 10 volts replace the battery, 11 volts, it will probably work fine but eventually cause you problems. A battery has 6 cells at 2 volts each = 12 volts, one bad or weak cell is all it takes.

A good battery will usually read somewhere around 12 volts even if the lights have been left on.

The dealer should have put an amp meter in the circuit to make sure the truck is not drawing excessive amps when it is turned off. If it shows to be drawing excess you most likely have a high resistance short somewhere.

Without being there my best guess is the battery.