I have a 2010 Dodge Ram 1500 Big Horn 4x

The accuator behind under the radio started making a knocking noise, after looking it up I found that the teeth on the accuator gear have probably gotten broken off. The heat is stuck on floor, I can't switch it to face or defrost, only floor.

So I ordered a new one from Rock Auto and took out the six screws that it took to replace it. (Which the dealer wanted $500 to do.)

I got it all back together and then I heard a rapid clicking noise and the heat went back to the way it was before. All floor, no face or defrost. The knocking is gone, but its still not switching.

Could the rapid clicking have been the new accuator stripping its teeth off too? It doesn't click anymore, I turn the truck on and everything sounds normal just no blend door action.

Does it sound like a bad part? Any thoughts?

The dealer had a recall on this but they say my recall on this issue was already taken care of. If its a recall issue I want it fixed but i can't afford it if its not covered under recall.

 

the actuators are exercised at start up for what I believe is the diagnostics. So it will make some noise at start up. After start up, the electronics will command it to the set position.

When the dealer replaces the actuator, they reprogram the controls to match the actual door position. Basically, the electronics may be trying to command the door to a position it can't achieve based on the previous calibration. Either have the dealer recalibrate it, or, open it up and try positioning the door at another extreme by rotating the gear by hand and then install the actuator. You will probably have to play with it a few times.

 

Not trying to push Mopar parts here but a lot of people have used new motors from parts stores and had many failures on restart of the system or soon there after. When the motor was purchased from Chrysler it worked fine.

When the system starts up it goes through a check and calibration. It you watch the door lever it will go from its rest position to its top position and hold for a couple seconds, then travel down and to its set position from the switch.

My best guess is the test and calibration momentarily puts stress on the gears in the motor as it reaches its top point during the hold and eventually weaken and strip the gears.

Another thing to check when the motor is removed, make sure the door freely moves up and down and you don't feel any binding.



You will see it only has a set amount of travel up before it hits the stop and must move freely in this area.

 

I'm having the same problem with my 2010. K-17 is the service bulletin. When they looked up my VIN, they said it only covered vehicles made before May 22, 2010. Mine was June 7, 2010, so, according to the Dodge Customer Service rep, I don't have the problem and they will not do a thing to fix it.

I talked to the dealer and he said basically, tough **** but if I put the motor in, he will reprogram it for $125.00 and supply the Vaseline.

Thanks Dodge Customer Service.

 

It makes total sense that the wheel is turned the wrong direction. The blend doors are opening, I have face and defrost but no floor now. But at start up it grinds. So I'll take it apart and turn the wheel. Screw that reprogramming for 125 BS.

Thank you everyone you helped out tremendously.

 

Spindoc, your not accounting for the Vaseline.

 

wait, vaseline? Did I need to put vaseline in the cog wheel before putting it in?